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Old Henry
Well-known member
My answer won't be a short one. I have been struggling with this for some time. For years I ran the 160° stat specified in my operator's manual with no problems. I firmly believe that it is important that the engine warm up to correct operating temperature as quickly as possible and not drop below it for reasons I'll give later. But, last year on my road trip over the top of Rocky Mountain National Park I overheated and could not get my engine temperature under control until I removed the thermostats. Then all was well climbing but coming down the engine dropped to close to 100° and ran very poorly. Then a piston came apart in April and the engine was rebuilt just in time for our Canada trip. When we left it was hot so I left the thermostats out not wanting to overheat like last year. But we quickly climbed to higher and cooler altitudes and when we got to Canada it was so cold I put the stats back in to get some heat and defrosting. I've had them in since but almost overheated on a climb last week so am a bit frustrated with the situation. I thought with my engine and radiator just cleaned out I could run the stats with no problem but that doesn't seem to be the case. My feeling is that the modern stats do not allow as much flow when open as the original stats did and that's the problem. For some time I've considered putting Bob Shewman's higher volume stats in but they are 180° stats and I really didn't want to have my minimum temperature that high. If he had 160° stats I'd put them in in a minute but he doesn't. I am probably at the point that, all things considered, if Bob's stats will keep me from overheating I'll probably go ahead and put them in even though they'll raise my minimum temperature above specs. Sorry for all the words but it's a tough nut to crack.
cmbrucew
Well-known member
Hi Prof.
If you like running without thermostats you might cut a panel to set in the lower front of the radiator blocking 1/3 to 1/2 of the fan area to use in cold weather.
Quicker and easier than removing and replacing thermostats.
Over the road Class 8 trucks have a zippered bra for their radiator shells.
Open more when needed, zip up for cold.
Pretty sure you will get other methods, and denials on this issue.
Bruce
Works good
Lasts long time
If you like running without thermostats you might cut a panel to set in the lower front of the radiator blocking 1/3 to 1/2 of the fan area to use in cold weather.
Quicker and easier than removing and replacing thermostats.
Over the road Class 8 trucks have a zippered bra for their radiator shells.
Open more when needed, zip up for cold.
Pretty sure you will get other methods, and denials on this issue.
Bruce
Works good
Lasts long time
Hotrodvideo
Senior Member
No, I use restrictor plates with a 5/8 hole in them. I made them out of aluminum so they don't rust but you could try a steel washer from Lowe's with a 5/8 hole already drilled in them. The plates slow down the water so that it cools. They seem to work better than a thermostat and you don't have to worry about a thermostat sticking.
Old Henry
Well-known member
Main problem with that approach is that I would have to stop and block the radiator at the top of every long climb to keep from overcooling then stop again and remove the block at the bottom to keep from overheating. A thermostat seems a bit more "automatic" to me than that approach.
I know there are quite a few people who don't like them, but here's my un-experienced opinion;
1.Nothing else can regulate the temperature, like a thermostat.
2.Running at an even temperature is very important to the life of the engine.
3.When people say modern thermostats dont allow enough flow, Are they considering the fact that a flathead is essentially two little four cylinder motors, and each thermostat services only one side of the engine. The water from each side can only mix in the radiator.
4.Without the thermostats, your engine is likely to run too cold.
5. The hotter you can run your engine without boiling it, the more efficient your engine is.
6. If all things are done as per recognized practice, your engine will run fine with them in.
And yes, I know these are "hot" engines, because the exhaust gases run through the block.
If the answers are honestly sought, then I would suggest that the majority cause of overheating faults would lead back to lack of cleanliness in the cooling system (scale) and combustion gases leaking into the cooling system.
Suggestion to Old Henry: Put those 180's in,and you'll do less harm, than you are now.
1.Nothing else can regulate the temperature, like a thermostat.
2.Running at an even temperature is very important to the life of the engine.
3.When people say modern thermostats dont allow enough flow, Are they considering the fact that a flathead is essentially two little four cylinder motors, and each thermostat services only one side of the engine. The water from each side can only mix in the radiator.
4.Without the thermostats, your engine is likely to run too cold.
5. The hotter you can run your engine without boiling it, the more efficient your engine is.
6. If all things are done as per recognized practice, your engine will run fine with them in.
And yes, I know these are "hot" engines, because the exhaust gases run through the block.
If the answers are honestly sought, then I would suggest that the majority cause of overheating faults would lead back to lack of cleanliness in the cooling system (scale) and combustion gases leaking into the cooling system.
Suggestion to Old Henry: Put those 180's in,and you'll do less harm, than you are now.
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kiwitony
Senior Member
Great answer Bluebell, For years I have read posts blaming the thermostats.In my opinion as long as the thermostat is working as it should the problem lies else .I've also been worried about Old Henry's new motor running no stats. In the old days they cut off every second fin and drilled holes in them in the belief they pumped too much, which contradicts Skips improved pumps , with there improved flow and everyone using them loves them. Cheers Tony.
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
Several issues caused by engine running too cold while not heavily loaded...
All your mechanical clearances will be slightly off
oil will be at lower temp than its design expectations for flow
water from combustion and from atmosphere will accumulate in your oil and make sludge
For those tinkering with radiator shielding as an alternative...if you can find one, early SAAB's had a radiator roller blind that could be pulled up or lowered via a cable inside the car!
All your mechanical clearances will be slightly off
oil will be at lower temp than its design expectations for flow
water from combustion and from atmosphere will accumulate in your oil and make sludge
For those tinkering with radiator shielding as an alternative...if you can find one, early SAAB's had a radiator roller blind that could be pulled up or lowered via a cable inside the car!
Old Henry
Well-known member
I also read someone suggest putting a manually operated valve in place of the thermostats the could be operated remotely by cable inside the car. I guess that would be the same sort of deal.
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
The SAAB setup looks exactly like a window shade and is about typical early Ford radiator width...it could be duplicated at Home Depot, I think, but you'd want to tack on some better fabric than a typical window blind has!
52merc
Well-known member
well my friend and i drove 2 36 fords to lake tahoe we had no problems with o/heating whats so ever we were in mountains 10500 ft high,ol henry when you come down a long steep hill your temp will go right down as you say 100fh ande car started playing up well in my humble opinion it shouldnt have i think you have a not cleaned out engine scale or simlar is your timing set right ? i drill a small hole in my stats it helps a lot i a;lso think ypou need a SET OF SKIPS PUMPS
I spent a couple days cleaning my AB block then it went to the machine shop where they boiled it as well. As a side note I couldn't believe the amount of junk in the water jackets. Regardless, I run 180 stats and new Speedway WPs. It will run all day in the texas heat and never get above 190. I also use Royal Purple water wetter and 50% anti-freeze. Works for me...