59AB heads on a 8BA block

This a common and easy swap. Two water holes on the block, (one each side) and two on the heads will have to be tapped and plugged. Lay a head gasket on the block and you will see the holes up front that don't line-up. You will also need a clamp device to hold the 8BA dizzy in place.
 
Joe, I believe both 59A and 8BA use the same cc heads. You should maintain the same CR, therefore no difference in HP. If there is difference in the cc's, it would be minimal.
 
Just need to block the two holes in the block. This can be done with an ordinary 1/2" cup plug. No holes in the head need blocking.
 
Hey Flatjack, do you think the gasket will prevent the water hole in the head from seeping? If so, it would save some extra work.
 
If performance is a concern, while the heads are off have them milled. This will ensure a flat gasket surface and will shrink the combustion chamber volume thereby raising the compression ratio.
 
GoCatGo said:
Hey Flatjack, do you think the gasket will prevent the water hole in the head from seeping? If so, it would save some extra work.
Click to expand...
If I remember right, the gasket will cover the hole on one side, but not the other. It really is a simple task to just pound two cup plugs in the offending holes - hence no worry. No need to drill and tap.
 
Kinda of a old thread but I'm getting ready to do this very swap, which head gasket do you use, the 59 or 8BA?
 
HAMB to the rescue.When I did mine, I used allen head pipe plugs and JB Weld for sealant. That was 10 years ago, Still working fine. Here's some info.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231790&highlight=install+59ab+heads+on+an+8ba I used a 1/4-20 allen socket head cap screw to hold the distributer in place and a spacer to keep it the same height as it was when using the stock heads. The spacer maintains the proper "mesh" of the the dist. gear. Be sure to not let chips drop down into the timing cover when drilling and tapping.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00417 (Small).JPG
    DSC00417 (Small).JPG
    50.3 KB · Views: 245
  • DSC02106 (Small).JPG
    DSC02106 (Small).JPG
    53.1 KB · Views: 242
  • IMG_2587 (Small) (2).jpg
    IMG_2587 (Small) (2).jpg
    57.3 KB · Views: 220
  • IMG_2590 (Small) (3).jpg
    IMG_2590 (Small) (3).jpg
    61 KB · Views: 195
The 59AB but be aware that the 8BA and up blocks have improvements in the coolant flow. The later blocks force more water to the rear of the block then out to the front of the heads to that radiator.

Jim
 
use the 59 gasket, I done this swap 30 plus years ago , but as a youngster, I asked an old machinist and he couldn't tell me if I would have problems or not,so I went to extreme and re located the hole from the water pump by making a tube and re drilling, It wasn't necessary! I have done it since by doing just as the guys above are saying, Just plug and
install the head, every thing stays cool!
Good luck!
Fordestes
 
Been running mine for 17 - 18 years now with the cup plugs and 59AB gasket and have yet to see a problem.
 
Think of an old type Coca-Cola bottle cap without the serrations...just a shallow steel cup. Driving it into a hole squeezes down the sides and holds it. They are sold by diameter in any size you can imagine.
 
When doing a swap Like this I like to use the 81A "A" head. This has a smaller combustion chamber. Mill the head for .050" piston to head clearance. Now you'll have to check for valve iinterferance between the valve and head. This can be cleared up with a die grinder. Almost a point in CR can be gained tis way.
 
Ol' Ron said:
When doing a swap Like this I like to use the 81A "A" head. This has a smaller combustion chamber. Mill the head for .050" piston to head clearance. Now you'll have to check for valve iinterferance between the valve and head. This can be cleared up with a die grinder. Almost a point in CR can be gained tis way.
Click to expand...


Hi Ron, Very glad to see you back on board again. Hope you are feeling much better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top