59AB bearings

B-O-B

B-O-B

Well-known member
What are your thoughts on these? Main & rod bearings, no ridge on crank or piston bore.
Thanks,Bob
 

Attachments

  • 1123201455.jpg
    1123201455.jpg
    62.1 KB · Views: 76
  • 1123201459.jpg
    1123201459.jpg
    85.5 KB · Views: 73
  • 1123201453.jpg
    1123201453.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 88
  • 1123201459a.jpg
    1123201459a.jpg
    34.6 KB · Views: 72
Get some fuel line on your rod bolts before you damage the crank. The threads on rod bolts are vicious. One nick on crank can destroy whole engine.
 
I would check the clearances with plastigage and if that's ok you can use them or replace them if you are rebuilding the engine.
 
They look OK visually, but it would be best to mike them and compare to the original specs. The main inserts may have the size stamped on the back (std. or how much undersize). If the engine has been rebuilt the rod inserts could be undersize on the crankshaft side and oversize on the rod side. Mike the rod journal to see if the crank has been ground and do a little math to see if the insert is oversize on the rod side. If you need the specs let me know.
 
40 Deluxe thanks. The engine is new to me as I bought it for the flywheel. Pistons are std & I will check the brg back sides. Thanks again for the info. Would just like to do a reasonable rings & a cyl hone.
Marko39 Thanks ,that is the plan.
KiwinUS thanks need all the help I can get at my age.
 
Looks like it was probably sitting for awhile, so I'd pull the crank, have it hot-tanked and have all the journals micro-polished. I'd probably ScotchBrite the bearings with lacquer thinner as well - just to prep them for the polished crank.

And as Tony said, don't lay the rod bolts against the crank - can put a nice "half-moon" mark in it that will wipe out bearings.
 
Also, if you're having the block honed, you should really have a good valve job done to it as well - by somebody who has the correct flathead mandrels and knows how to do the work. No reason to NOT freshen up the top-end as well . . .
 
Thanks guys for the info. Bought this engine 4-5 yr ago for the flywheel & yep you are correct Gary it has been setting in the shop & decided to see if it is rebuildable. Just going to go cheap as I can get by . Do not trust my own judgment too much any more, too forgetful .
 
If those are Ford bearings, the part # will be inscribed in the groove in the rod bearing. As noted, measure the thickness to determine wear.
 
Note: If you don't have a bearing mic, you can use something like a wrist pin on the inside of the bearing and a 1" mic to obtain accurate bearing thicknesses. Then, the math is pretty easy to figure out what actual clearances you have.
 
I'm with FlatJack, you need to use a precision "barrel" type mic - whether analog or digital, you cannot use a dial caliper type mic for this purpose (analog or digital).

Having a high quality mic, the correct setup/application and knowing how to use it are key . . . there is no such thing as "close" in bearing clearances. :rolleyes:
 
You need a "ball" end anvil quality Micrometer to measure rod bearings hundreds on
ebay for not much money then invest in a inside mic. for the rods. Why not, cause
you will always have those in your treasure draw. Rod bearings, get ready for a money
shock LOL
 
Over the years i've collected hundreds of used bearings, especially the floaters. In an effprt to get the right bearing clearance. This wwas mostly during my racing days, and the cost of the bearings. You'll need a bearing mike and some smap gauges, to measure them and fit them. These bearings look reusable, from what I can see.
Gramps
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top