59AB advice on "new" flathead

mustangbrandon

mustangbrandon

Member
Hey there, looking for some advice on what to do. Newly acquired project happen to come with a service replacement engine that has never been fired. Even has the original warranty paperwork from a builder in Ohio. Anyway, the engine is spotless. It was kept properly so the bores are perfect, in fact the whole exterior of the engine looks like it came off the line.

So, what to do? I really don't want to take it apart. Is there any way to prelube a flathead like you can a SBF? I'd like to get oil to all the bearings etc. It's probably in my best interest to replace the oil pan and timing cover gasket, but then again maybe not? Kind of at a crossroads on which direction to go... (heads and intake are NOS that came with it)
 

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Get a pressure sprayer, fill it with 3 quarts, hook to oil pressure port at rear, and pump-up the tank. You can attach the pressure sprayer line to any of the three ports seen below. ONLY Canadian blocks have the third port indicated with arrow. DD


414052
 
Coop, that's an interesting picture you've posted. We could have a whole thread devoted to what is shown in that picture, could we not? Shall we count the ways?
 
I'd be tempted to tear it down and reassemble, lubing profusely as it goes. Then you would have peace of mind that everything is A-OK.
For the cost of a gasket set, it's cheap insurance. Even then, most gaskets would be re-usable if it comes apart cleanly.
Or a simpler variation. Take the pan off and lube the cam and lifters, oil the top of the lifters through the valley, and the bores through the plug holes.

Then once back together crank it over with plugs out until oil pressure builds.
Then fire it up and keep revs up for first 20 mins to get plenty of splash lube for the cam lobes from oil flinging off the crank.

Note the adjustable lifters. It's rebuilt but not a Ford re-man.

Mart.
 
A wise mechanic also drilled the 1/8” holes in each lifter boss. Obviously, this should be done during the block prepping stage so that the waste chips can be cleaned out prior to motor assembly. Now this engine can have its valves easily adjusted at any time deemed necessary.
 
Mac VP said:
A wise mechanic also drilled the 1/8” holes in each lifter boss. Obviously, this should be done during the block prepping stage so that the waste chips can be cleaned out prior to motor assembly. Now this engine can have its valves easily adjusted at any time deemed necessary.
Click to expand...

Are there any special instructions when drilling the lifter bossses?
 
I would be very suspect of any rebuilt engine that had been sitting for a prolonged period of time.

I would make book that there will be light rust in any bore and/or valve seat/stem that had an open valve.
Been there done that!!
 
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll tear it down and get everything lubed. I may have mistakenly called it a service replacement due to the tag attached to it. I'll dig up the warranty card that came with it, looks to have been done in the 50's. Here are a few more pictures of the engine.

Question: It currently has the crab style distributor but came with an NOS or rebuilt "helmet" style, and a different timing cover. The engine is going in a '41 Convertible and I'd rather run the 41 style. Anything I need to know about swapping that?

It came with a couple reconditioned (NOS replacement) distributors (crab style) if someone needs one. And a bunch of caps...
 

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Ok, I am punting and starting over because I actually don't know for sure what it is I actually have. Experts, here's what I see:
  • Intake area not raised
  • No freeze plugs in side of block
  • circle date stamping on top of bellhousing, not 59
  • Block at timing cover is sloped
  • Has longer crank snout with provision to attach fan
  • 3.2075" bore, pistons marked .020
  • turns out it's blue under the green paint. Merc block? although paint obviously doesn't matter...

So, first, what block is this? 41? Second, I "THINK" I might have some old hot rod engine that wasn't run. The adjustable lifters has me wondering, along with the 3.2075 bore, and the NOS offy stuff. Now I am definitely opening it up because I don't know what's inside. Currently has a clutch attached so I can't see anything on the back of the crankshaft. I'll measure the lift at the valves before I take it apart. I don't know if anyone can tell from the earlier picture if those appear to be stock valve springs or not. Whatever they are, they are new. More to come but any help with what it actually is would be great. I think I have read everything on Vanpelt :)
 
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does the block pass the pencil ledge test?
freeze plugs are on the pan rail--seen only with pan off--there may be small lumps off the rail indicating freeze plugs ,give us a close up of the front of block and top of engine where heads go and also the back where the 59 was supposed to be
 
alanwoodieman said:
does the block pass the pencil ledge test?
freeze plugs are on the pan rail--seen only with pan off--there may be small lumps off the rail indicating freeze plugs ,give us a close up of the front of block and top of engine where heads go and also the back where the 59 was supposed to be
Click to expand...

Will have to get the rest of the pics tomorrow, it's in the trailer and dark. And it's not level so I don't think a pencil will stick around right now. Here's the stamp on the top of the bellhousing. Sorry, it's dark but you get the idea...
 

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Craig CT said:
Hi mustangbrandon; It may be just the photo but that cylinder looks rough without a proper cross-hatch. Anyway great find, good luck Craig.
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Thanks! It's the picture, terrible lighting in the trailer. It's perfect. All of them are... Thinking now this might have been a more recent build but won't know till I open it. Things a "too" nice to be an old build... Came from an estate, bought by someone else and then I got it so no info at all on anything...
 
Again, sorry for bad photos, it's dark! This is the side view of the timing cover area. So, if I am reading everything correct, it's a prewar block and not a 41 because it doesn't have the sunken area (or raised intake). Maybe 39-40? No matter what it's coming apart but wanted to know what it is... Also, as I stated in another reply, I am now wondering if this is a much more recent build. Things are "too" nice. This came though someone who bought a bunch of cars and parts from an estate sale.
 

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