59a stroker motor?

T

threepointsmach

Junior Member
Being new to the flathead world, I have a question that may be dumb. I recently picked up a 59a engine from the estate of a dead relative. The engine is supposedly rebuilt, and was going into a '33 pickup. Aside from the Offenhauser heads, Navarro intake, and Winfield cam, it has a note with the engine stating "3/8 x "3/8. Would that refer to a stroked engine?
 
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Yes sir. 3 3/8” bore & a 4 1/8” stroke crank which is 3/8” more stroke than stock 3 3/4”. The crank maybe a Mercury 4” stroke offset ground to 4 1/8”. If so would have 2” crankpins & possibly 21a or 91a rods with floater bearings. Combination was commonly call 296 “Killer “ engine. A great combo. Enjoy
 
This is the original HI Tec engine of the early 50"s. C&T automotive sold the stroker assys for $199 and Janns pistons. Compression was very high back then and dentation was common. Shouldn't have any problem today
 
KiWinUS said:
Yes sir. 3 3/8” bore & a 4 1/8” stroke crank which is 3/8” more stroke than stock 3 3/4”. The crank maybe a Mercury 4” stroke offset ground to 4 1/8”. If so would have 2” crankpins & possibly 21a or 91a rods with floater bearings. Combination was commonly call 296 “Killer “ engine. A great combo. Enjoy
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KIWI, How will the L-100 cam work in a 296? Streetable in a '40 sedan? Thanks!
 
None with these two. I have an Isky Max1 now and am pleased with it but at least for me, I always wonder what another XYZ cam would be like. :-)

This is a chart I complied on another thread here. I was fooling around with it today to add the CompCam but stopped lacking enough information @0.050". Since you asked, here it is.
 

Attachments

You can compare charts and dyno results all day but until you actually try a cam IN YOUR ENGINE, you can never know how they suit YOU for your type of driving.

Winfield cams are generally good for the street. Even his Bonneville grind was very mild and streetable. It would idle at 500.
 
Pete said:
You can compare charts and dyno results all day but until you actually try a cam IN YOUR ENGINE, you can never know how they suit YOU for your type of driving.

Winfield cams are generally good for the street. Even his Bonneville grind was very mild and streetable. It would idle at 500.
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Hi Pete,

That's the hard part and expensive thing to do!

So where did you start and what made you decide on your Winfield cam? Did you consider these attributes and/or others?

- [FONT=&quot]The longer the duration and overlap, the higher up the rpm scale the power band will be, but not ideal at low rpm for the street[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- [/FONT][FONT=&quot]The greater or larger the lobe separation for the cam, will be good at low RPMs but not so great at higher RPM.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- High lift gives you more fuel-air in but can lead to longer ramps with longer duration[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Expensive for anyone to experiment with the same engine and dyno a bunch of cams.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Glenn
[/FONT]
 
glennpm said:
Hi Pete,

That's the hard part and expensive thing to do!

So where did you start and what made you decide on your Winfield cam? Did you consider these attributes and/or others?

> I started when I was just out of high school and didn't know squat about cams. I was building an engine for Bonneville so I called Winfield and he recommended something. The biggest thing he had was fairly mild by nowdays
standards. It worked good on the street though.

- [FONT=&quot]The longer the duration and overlap, the higher up the rpm scale the power band will be, but not ideal at low rpm for the street[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- [/FONT][FONT=&quot]The greater or larger the lobe separation for the cam, will be good at low RPMs but not so great at higher RPM.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- High lift gives you more fuel-air in but can lead to longer ramps with longer duration[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Expensive for anyone to experiment with the same engine and dyno a bunch of cams.[/FONT]

> Racing, like any sport, if you want to play at the top level, you need big bux.



[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Glenn
[/FONT]
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...
 
I've run the 1007B in several engines and the Max#1 was also very popular. However the 1007B seemed to pull harder and higher thru the revs. Bith have a nice idel. It might be the lift rate difference I've never measured the area under the graph/ I've only done that once as it takes time and and allot of measuring. I used 30 degrees either side of TDC. Quite a difference.
Gramps
 
Let's face it; unless you really blow it and order a cam from "Go Cat Speed Shop" or someone similar, the choice of a camshaft in a street-driven flathead is a matter of vanity and braggin' rights.

I personally would not waste my time or money ($400:eek:) on something marketed as a "Mutha-Thumper". Pure poser.
 
glennpm said:
Hi Pete,

That's the hard part and expensive thing to do!

So where did you start and what made you decide on your Winfield cam? Did you consider these attributes and/or others?

- [FONT=&quot]The longer the duration and overlap, the higher up the rpm scale the power band will be, but not ideal at low rpm for the street[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- [/FONT][FONT=&quot]The greater or larger the lobe separation for the cam, will be good at low RPMs but not so great at higher RPM.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- High lift gives you more fuel-air in but can lead to longer ramps with longer duration[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Expensive for anyone to experiment with the same engine and dyno a bunch of cams.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Glenn
[/FONT]
Click to expand...
Narrowing the lobe separation angle will actually help the lower end as the intake closes earlier.
 
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