59a Oil pan / Starter problem

Roadster 28

Roadster 28

Junior Member
Hello,

I noticed today a strange problem in my flatty. Its -46
Hole in the oil pan is smaller than what it should be, so starter wont fit correctly. I do not want to change oil pan because it is already painted, also i do not want to change starter because its rebuilded. What are my choices?
Is there different frontplate for starter?
What kind of oil pan is that?
Oil pan hole is 2,5" and starter shoulder is 3"

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Bolts should line up, but it's an English pan, for Lucas starter motor and flywheel.
You'd be better off swapping on a common American pan.
Martin.
 
The Engish pan, starter and flywheel all must be used as a set. The USA type must also be used as a set.

I'm not sure but you seem to have a USA flywheel and starter and a UK type sump pan.

Whatever you do, you need to change something. It depends how handy you are and what other parts you have.

I have hogged a UK sump pan out to take a USA starter, it is not too bad doing it with a carbide burr, but it does take some determination.

For info, the UK parts have finer teeth on flywheel and starter and the smaller snout size on the starter. USA parts, coarser teeth and a bigger hole.

Mart.
 
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To me your oil pan looks to be worked on, they have used a starter from something other then Ford. If you can get a good oil pan would be better. The bolt holes are not in center and hole in pan is oblonged.
 
George/Maine said:
To me your oil pan looks to be worked on, they have used a starter from something other then Ford. If you can get a good oil pan would be better. The bolt holes are not in center and hole in pan is oblonged.
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Nope, not worked on, it's a stock UK pan. That's the shape of the hole standard.
The UK starter had 9 teeth, and 144 on the ring gear. US has 10 on the starter and 112 on the ring gear.
The pilot (no pun intended) is smaller on the UK pan, to match the smaller register on the Lucas starter motor. This is to stop folk useing the wrong combination. Pre war UK Ford used the US parts, the change to UK stuff happened during the war.
The hole is odd shaped to allow the bendix to get passed the flywheel.
I'd imagine the UK pans are fairly rare over there, Guy with a Ford pilot would like yours, swap on a regular US pan.
Your flywheel ring gear is the US 112 tooth.
Martin.
 
Scooder is correct; It is English. In addition, the two holes for attaching starter are orientated at a different angle to the US version, accordingly, the strap from starter to oil pan will not fit.
However...one good feature of these English oil pans is that the dipstick boss is cast in brass, not only is it riveted to the pan, but soldered too...no oil leaks from that area whatsoever!
 
Okay,
Yes i have a USA flywheel and starter. And yes bolts lines up. So i need change my oil pan or i use carbide burr. I have one version whit removable flywheel cover. Is that truck oil pan or what? Only one problem whit that is dipstick boss, it does not not have the threads in it for dipsticktube. Where can I buy a new one? In that UK pan it really is soldered so i dont know can I get it out of it onepiece. Anybody have a picture of that strap from starter to oil pan?
-Hannu-
 
The removable flywheel cover type was fitted to some trucks with the 11" clutch. As you can't remove an 11" clutch with a normal type pan without pulling the pan. It's also good as you can remove the flywheel without dropping the pan.
With the soulder, drill out the rivets, screw the dipstick tube in, apply heat from a blow torch, when the soulder starts to drip, put a bit of outwards pressure on the dipstick tube and the whole lot should Pop of quite easy, not much pressure, it may even just fall off.
If you don't want to do that, I'm sure most of the early Ford suppliers have this part.
Good luck,
Martin.
 
Why not remove the starter plate next to the drive and turn it down to fit the pan? Alum. is a lot easier to turn than grinding on the oilpan. also, the starter plate needs to fit the pan well cause it is what takes thrust when the starter is engaged.
 
Jim, the starter casting has a narrow ring and ribs inside it. If you were to turn it down you would only have the ribs, and even then they would not be full height. It may be do-able, or some sort of adaptor ring machined up, and I agree it sounds like the easiest way to do it, but in reality it may not be doable or would involve more machining.

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One other thing: It's best to leave the starter and pan unpainted where they fit together so they can ground properly.

Mart.
 
Maybe the easiest way is make new frontplate for starter. Friend of mine is cnc machinist. I think I will contact him.
Thanks everoby for helping out.
 
There is a 59a oil pan on epay why not do the job right. You don't know if the 2 bolt holes are in center to mesh flywheel correct. CNC buy the time you program a vicking ship could deliver it.
 
George, the bolt holes are on center.
Mr 28.
You said you have a truck pan, the one with the removable back section. Surely the best bet is to fit that pan? Why make hard work of it?
Martin.
ps, as Mart said, get the paint off the faces between starter and pan, this is the best ground connection.
 
Truck pan needs that dipsticktube boss and paint. Paint is a thing that i know if i paint it that it will not be exactly the same color as block. It is an industrial paint (ral6006) and every time when I apply more of it, it's a little different color. I want the block/oil pan/water pumps is completely the same color. By changin oil pan i need to paint all over again and thats not okay for me :)
I will take off paint for grounding.
 
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