59A-B heads "loose" but stuck

[justanotherguy]

Hello Everyone,
I've learned a lot snooping around here. Great info you are all sharing. Thanks. This is my first time asking a question. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

I'm trying to remove stock heads on a "running" 59A-B. After a couple of days soaking the head nuts in Kroil, they came off without anything breaking. Then I managed to loosen the heads slightly from the block. On one side I can easily slide a putty knife all the way around the head, On the other side I can do the same except there's even more of a separation... at least 1/16". But that's it. Neither side is wanting to move at all. I'm no Atlas, but they aren't even wiggling. I've been using Kroil on the studs. My first thought was that he studs are binding just slightly and enough to prevent the heads from moving any further out. Any thoughts? I'm open to suggestions.

More trivial info just for grins.
Compression is irregular with 3 cylinders at 10-30 psi and 5 others at 85-90. This engine has been in a running /driving car for years, and judging from what's left of a sticker on one of the heads, it was rebuilt in the 50's by Sears. I drove it into the garage to address this problem. It ran surprisingly well considering. I can see a couple of burnt valves by looking in the spark plug holes. It's not burning any blue smoke, but there's a hesitation every once in a while consistent with burnt valves. So, my thought was to possibly attend to the valves with the engine in the car. Thinking that the first step of removing the heads would be fairly easy. Yup... that's what I thought. I'm reluctant to remove the studs. Am I missing something obvious? It wouldn't be the first time.

 

[JSeery]

In order to clean the engine block head surface you would most likely want the studs removed. Unless the head gasket comes off fairly clean which doesn't sound like the case. It is also likely that the engine is in need of more than minor valve work and will require a tear-down anyway. Heads can be difficult to get off, one method is to use the compression of the engine turning over to push the heads off, but sounds like your beyond that. You can fab a device(s) to use as puller(s). But however you go about it, it can be a chore.

 

[deuce_roadster]

Probably only the head gaskets holding them on if you have only moved them a little bit already. Cut some hardwood wedges and tap them in from each end and the head will come up and off. Many a head has been pried up with 2 big screwdrivers on each end. Once you get the head gasket loose or un-sandwiched it should come off without Atlas type strength.

 

[justanotherguy]

Thanks JSeery and duece_roadster. I'll keep at it as time permits. I like the wood wedge idea... sounds safe on parts.

 

[35fordtn]

I have used a wooden wedge with success just be careful not to hit a open valve with it, unless you plan to replace the valves. One thing I have done, was cut a spark plug in half removing all the porcelain, and weld the metal thread part to my slide hammer adapter. Then use the slide hammer to gently hammer each side. This has never failed for me in removing the heads.

 

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

I have used a wooden wedge with success just be careful not to hit a open valve with it, unless you plan to replace the valves. One thing I have done, was cut a spark plug in half removing all the porcelain, and weld the metal thread part to my slide hammer adapter. Then use the slide hammer to gently hammer each side. This has never failed for me in removing the heads.

Good idea, maybe 2 slide hammers, one on each end, them you can go clink clunk ,clink clunk, clink clunk. Walt

 

[Mike in AZ]

Welcome to the 'Barn.....keep on having fun.....Mike

 

[slowforty]

Walts idea works the best

 

[GB SISSON]

Bent two valves last year with oak wedges.....I know the pain.

 

[Mart]

Make sure you don't clink when you should have clunked, or it will come off crooked.

Mart.

 

[G.M.]

The crud in the stud holes is what holds the heads on. I have a set of hollow core
deep drills that can be turned by a slow speed drill or by a T handle that cuts the
crud out. They are about 7/16" ID and 1/2" OD. G.M.

 

[justanotherguy]

Good responses guys. I appreciate it. I'm off line for a while, and away for a few days.
I'll post again when there's progress.
Thanks to all!

 

[Lawson Cox]

Seems you have the head crooked and it is hanging up on the studs.
Take a wooden hammer, or rubber hammer and gently hit the head where it is fartherist from block and try to tap it back down to where it rests on the block again, and start over. (can't get spell check to come up with correct spelling. LOL)

 

[willowbilly3]

You also might try feeding a bunch of soft cotton rope down the spark plug hole and turning the engine with a breaker bar. It might take several gos at it by moving the rope from end to end to wiggle it up.

 

[Kube]

Furthest.

 

[petehoovie]

Furthest.

Many English speakers use both farther and further to mean "more far" in space, but only further can be used for non-physical distance and to mean simply "more." If you are talking about actual distance, you can usually use either word without raising any eyebrows, but keep further in mind for all of your English furthering efforts.

 

[Lawson Cox]

Many English speakers use both farther and further to mean "more far" in space, but only further can be used for non-physical distance and to mean simply "more." If you are talking about actual distance, you can usually use either word without raising any eyebrows, but keep further in mind for all of your English furthering efforts.

Yeah, know, but the spell check didn't come up with correct spelling either way. Go figure.

 

[Mart]

Yes, don't only pull. Pull up, knock it back. Pull it up, knock it back. Look to see which part is seeming to resist the most. Keep going, it will eventually loosen up. Don't be afraid to knock it about a bit, as long as you are using a mallet or copper hammer or similar and using care.

Don't do what I did once and try and loosen it with a bar down the water inlet. (this was a 59A style) and I broke a chunk out of the water outlet.

Whoops.

Good luck.

Mart.

 

[Kube]

Many English speakers use both farther and further to mean "more far" in space, but only further can be used for non-physical distance and to mean simply "more." If you are talking about actual distance, you can usually use either word without raising any eyebrows, but keep further in mind for all of your English furthering efforts.

That's interesting - thanks.

 

[justanotherguy]

Update... only a year later.
Decided to pull the engine and take to a local guy who's built a few flatheads. We're now on the right side of it. (We means "He" is doing 99% of the work.) But it's getting a total rebuild. The block was good, valves not so much and the heads were really pitted. OK, in another year maybe it'll be in the car and running... HA! If that's true, I'll post something.