59 Galaxie 500 Engine

D

droman

Junior Member
OK. I have received some good input from readers. My new question;
Can I do a low-budget rebuild of the bottom end of my 292? New bearings? I don't have alot of $ to throw at this one right now. I prefer not to disassemble the entire motor if possible. How do I clean out the small oil pipes in the heads?
Thanks,
Dave
 
The oil tubes in the heads are not likely the problem. The valve train gets oil from the center cam bearing through a groove, then through passages in the block and heads. the passages in the block and heads make a 90 degree turn. It's a place where sludge can build up and block oil flow, usually to the passenger side 1st. The groove in the cam bearing can also sludge up but it's less common. I think I'd try pulling the heads and cleaning the oil passages out asbestos you can. Also disassemble and clean the rocker tubes and oil passages in the rockers themselves. Be sure on reassembly that the oil holes at the bottom of the rockers line up with the oil holes in the heads; they can be assembled incorrectly. Or you might get an external oiler kit...
 
if your trying to get oil to the rocker arms and the oil passage is plugged you cant clean the passage with out removing the heads, you can use an after market kit that runs a copper line from an oil passage on the side of the block up to and ove the valve covers, works but looks like s**t, the reason you cant clean the oil passage thru the head to the rockersis because that passage goes thru the head till it hits the block and then makes a 90 degree turn for about an inch between the head and block then makes another 90 degree turn , that one inch passage between the head and block gets plugged because of lack of oil changes, heat which turns the oil to carbon, and using cheap oil (non detergent,) also if you mill the head you need to have that passage machined back to its original depth or it will plug very quickly, to repeat, you can not clean that passage with out pulling the heads
 
opps sorry dobie, i was typing an answer the same time as you, but you must type faster because you posted first LOL
 
on your other post you say you have a knock, a sharp knock is usualy a rod, a deep knock is a main, main knocks usualy quiten down as oil pressure builds up when the oil is cold, if its a rod you can find which one by starting engine and pulling one spark plug wire at a time till the knock stops
 
If you have a deep knock at idle, and the car is equipped with an auto transmission, first check the torque on the converter nuts. A loose converter nut can be heard all the way through the engine rear to front. They have been known to loosen over time. They take almost 15 minutes and NO MONEY to fix!
Dobie, I like the blue Merc.
 
Many thanks to Dobie,Ford3 and Ole Don for your input. I just learned a few valuable pieces of info. I will try to indentify the knock by using the plug wire method. My car is a 3spd manual so no torque convertor to worry about. Are there any YouTube videos showing the rocker shaft disassembly? Any other special instructions about removing and reinstalling parts? I know I need to buy an engine book.
Would it be best to pull the engine and put it on a stand so I can spin it over to get to the bearings or start by just pulling the heads leaving the engine in car?
I have had many old Fords especially Mustangs but I am enjoying this car more than the others.
 
I know this is elementary for a Y Block BUT you do know that its a solid lifter engine?

That noise could be out of adjustment rockers.

Just a suggestion since nobody else has mentioned it.

Oldmics
 
The first thing you should buy is a shop manual.Most of the vendors that sell parts for 50s Fords have them for sale.They are not expensive and contain all the information you need about your engine and pretty much everything else pertaining to your car.
 
Above post are correct and good info..
Depending on the severity of the 'knock'.. Back to your OP ...
you Can crack lose the main bearing caps and inspect(,'one at a time)look at back side of br'g to see if (std.) or oversize.(order same).
Each' one -at a time' and 'roll' old bearing out....'Roll' new bearings in....
>
>Put a large cotter key in a vice and smash the the rounded end flat...(the thickness of the bearing..with the main cap removed,put the cotter pin in the oil hole and turn the crank In .the "proper direction" ...to 'roll the bearing out, then carefully , 'roll the new one in.(Note.'***'y. lube).. Torque to specs
. ..the rod bearing are much easier... If the crank or bearing is really damaged you need to do a "Proper rebuild>>!
 
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Chuckles,
Thanks a bunch! Sounds like a good old school way to do it. I think I will try that method. Not sure I totally understand the description about the cotter pin. I'm just a backyard do it yourselfer who has learned things the hard way. Pics work best for my hard-to-picture-it brain.
Can I leave the engine in the car and pull the oil pan and do it from below? If so, do I have to replace the dreaded rear main seal?
Thanks.
 
you can also use a 16 penny nail, cut the nail so its about an inch and a half long, put the shank in oil hole and use the nail head to wind out the bearing
 
Thanks all!. I do believe that I have at least 1 maybe 2 bad bearings. I do understand the principal behind the cotter pin/nail method now. I am trying to decide to either attempt this with the motor in the car or pull the motor. This time of year I get lazy and don't always have energy when I get home from work.
Any opinions on either method?
 
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