59 Engine bolt torque

Jakno

Jakno

Senior Member
Have a 24 stud 59 Engine that I'm installing in my 35 pickup. Previous owner never heard it run but thought it had been rebuilt at some point. To check for condition we pulled the heads, intake and one rod and main bearing cap. Everything looked okay for my use plus engine is clean inside and out.
Has not had a total rebuild, only clutch, pressure plate and one set of valves.
I now realize that to re-assemble I should have torque spec's for main,rod,head and intake bolts. I started a search on this forum but it's too easy to get carried off onto other subjects. Would anyone have the spec's readily at hand and would share ?.
Thank You
 
Is there a difference between 59 & 8BA torque specs.
 

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Don't some 59's have full floating rod bearings that require different methods than just a torque spec? Can anyone clarify?
 
No, Will, you just torque em up.

There is a procedure for ensuring the bearings fit with regards to roundness, but others like Ol Ron are more familiar with that than I am.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
No, Will, you just torque em up.

There is a procedure for ensuring the bearings fit with regards to roundness, but others like Ol Ron are more familiar with that than I am.

Mart.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mart. Some info sticks, some ends up fragmented... knew something was different about them but couldn't remember exactly what.
 
macdonge, that is an excellent document you put together on the art of fitting the full floating rod bearings. Thanks very much for the information.
 
Ol' Ron also covered his procedure for fitting full floating rod bearings in his book, "Nostalgia", for those who may have a copy, or have access to a copy.
 
Mart said:
This is what I've been using. Thanks to Mac Van Pelt.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_torquespecs32-48V8.htm

80-90 on the main caps.
35-40 on the con rods. (Castellated).
50-60 on cast iron heads.
23-28 on the intake manifold.
I watched Mart's video on installing rod bearings. I always fit the crank bearing first. Tap , tap with a rubber mallet until if fits the crank. Not too snug and not too loose so it falls off. then can install the rods. I always have a piece of plastic tubing on each rod stud. One nick on the bearing can mean a long term problem. Also use assembly lube on all surfaces not oil. Plastic gage is your friend

JMHO
John
Click to expand...
 
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Thanks to everyone for responding with your thoughts and information.

Excellent. It doesn't get any better than this
 
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