59 AB engine rebuild
- Thread starter Macdozer
- Start date
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
Or one is a 50 and the other is a 80 ?
Springs can be made different to and its pressure at installed height thats interesting.
Springs can be made different to and its pressure at installed height thats interesting.
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
It depends on if it has the same tension at installed height or not.
Cant tell if its right or not unless you put it in a springtester compairing to known value or running the pump against a pressure gauge.
Cant tell if its right or not unless you put it in a springtester compairing to known value or running the pump against a pressure gauge.
GOSFAST
Well-known member
Hi Mac, you need to start measuring the installed hgts with the new springs and whatever retainers/locks you have on hand.
You won't really be able to tell much by "sight", you need (reasonably) exact numbers in this area.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. We work with various springs, retainers, and locks on different platforms. Occasionally we use the locks that give a .050" shorter installed hgt, and we also use some that give a .050" taller hgt. Depends mostly on the spring pkge combo and the "target" pressure!
It looks like with the longer springs I will need the retainer and the lock keys only. I will not need the "sleeve"
I will measure the springs I took out and the new ones I got.
Are the retainers used with the different valve assemblys all the same or are they all different?
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I will measure the springs I took out and the new ones I got.
Are the retainers used with the different valve assemblys all the same or are they all different?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
GOSFAST
Well-known member
Hi Mac, you need the retainers that don't use the "roto-caps", they are the 1 piece deals.
Like I mentioned above, you can alter the spring hgts/pressures by using the valve locks if needed.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Here's a shot of both setups, you should use the one on the left side!
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Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Stock Henry Studs: If you're just rebuilding a stock engine, what you have works just fine. It should not be difficult to remove the nuts - but don't damage the studs themselves. If you don't have the tools to correctly hold the stud, don't just throw it in a vice and gall it all up - have the machine shop do it.
Studs versus Bolts: I prefer to always use studs - as you'll be using the fine threaded end to tighten up the nuts and set the torque . . . which tends to give more accurate readings than the coarse threads in the block.
It is actually NOT a good idea to change the stock studs to ARP - unless you're going to have the main crank bore checked . . . as the torque for new/different studs can influence the roundness of the bearing bore. Normally it should NOT be an issue, but it is something that I always have checked when I'm messing around with any new/different parts in the mains area.
Studs versus Bolts: I prefer to always use studs - as you'll be using the fine threaded end to tighten up the nuts and set the torque . . . which tends to give more accurate readings than the coarse threads in the block.
It is actually NOT a good idea to change the stock studs to ARP - unless you're going to have the main crank bore checked . . . as the torque for new/different studs can influence the roundness of the bearing bore. Normally it should NOT be an issue, but it is something that I always have checked when I'm messing around with any new/different parts in the mains area.