59 AB engine rebuild

I have been looking for a engine gasket kit for the 59 ab and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations. Speedway, victor reinz , fel-pro, just wondering if some are better then others. Now that it is going to be 0.060 over bore will that affect what size head gasket I use?
 
The .060 only need the std. head gasket, I recommend the BEST brand gaskets set. They have every gasket you'll ever need in the set and the best rear main seal. Job Lot carry that and a lot of other venders. Walt
 
Most standard bore gaskets are 3.270", on a .060" over (3.250") the risk of having the "fire-ring" too close to edges of the bores is much too high. There's a real possibilty a portion of the ring will hang over the edge at 3.270". You may be "splitting-hairs" so to speak.

I would go for the 3.420" and have a decent safety-margin!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We try to stay with the Fel-Pro line, never had a single issue so far. We do use the 1-pc front seal on all builds with the respective sleeve!
 
I see they sell composite and copper head gaskets in the kits which one is better ?

I am thinking of going with the standard head gasket size with the block being bored 0.060 over, not sure I understand GosFast comment on the fire ring being to close to the bore with these gaskets please explain.
 
What he's saying is that the steel/clad fire ring can get really close to the heat of the bore, which can cause it to prematurely fail (causing a blown head gasket). You'll probably have no problem with regular gaskets - but, if you go to the 'Big-Bore' gaskets, you'll have a bit more margin for safety and the issue goes away. Hope this helps.
 
Yes that helps thank you.

I have also been trying to figure out the clylinder head studs, when taking it apart the heads had Bolts, should they be changed to studs when I put it back together?

Can someone tell me if these are the proper part numbers for the head studs for a 59ab with the original cast heads?

40-6065
40-6066
40-6067
And is there a good nut and washer kit advailable that is preferred?
 
The parts quality can vary - one of my friends ordered a stud/nut/washer kit and the nuts were so soft, I'm not sure they were even Grade 8. I prefer to use ARP stuff - it is by far the best and you know the quality is there. It may cost a bit more, but is the route I go.

I don't have my green book in front of me to lookup the part numbers, but here are two places that have a lot of quality parts:

Vanpelt Sales:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/engine-partsprices-pg1.htm

Reds Headers (These are all ARP studs, which is only what I use):

http://reds-headers.net/index.php?m...=1&keyword=studs&inc_subcat=0&sort=20a&page=1
 
Many years ago I saw an ARP stud kit and the course thread length was too long. The stock stud seats into the block. The ARP are floaters. Whick could cause trouble in the blind holes at the end of the block. They may have changed them????? I use bolts.
 
Trying to figure out the oil pump for the engine (59ab) I think it is the long style and 50lb pressure. Is it best to get a rebuild kit for the pump ?
I want to make sure I get the right kit for the pump and any information would be great.
 
Macdozer, if you remove your pump's cover and see no unusual wear in the cover or gear mesh then put it back together. Ford long pumps are a notoriously good product.

Lonnie
 
Ol' Ron said:
Many years ago I saw an ARP stud kit and the course thread length was too long. The stock stud seats into the block. The ARP are floaters. Whick could cause trouble in the blind holes at the end of the block. They may have changed them????? I use bolts.
Click to expand...

Tell yah what Ron, I just purchased a set for the 42 Merc stroker I'm building.

I'll check the thread lengths and report back. One has to make dang sure that the coarse threads are not too long and interfere with block internals - on ANY engine. This is an easy way to crack a block - ask me how I 'learned' this lesson! It is now something I always check. :eek:

I'll update this thread and make a new post later . . . probably next week.

Dale
 
Let me clear up some specs on the ARP stud kits.

When the kits are ordered from ARP under a "standard" number they will package all the studs with 1.000" long coarse bottom threads unless noted. If you order the studs individual you can specify .750" long bottom threads! They make almost all their studs in both bottom lengths. The short's (.750") have a letter "S" at the stud part number end, the long's have an "L".

The only holes that are really an issue are the 2 above the heatcrossover, occasionally they'll need to be shortened slightly regardless of the bottom lengths!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. On a side note, when we work with various brands of heads we find the machined heights are not always consistent. Also, on many heads there is add'l machining on the topside of the head bolt holes to make a nicer finished surface for the bolts or washers/nuts, we find this mostly on "used" aluminum castings.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Tell yah what Ron, I just purchased a set for the 42 Merc stroker I'm building.

I'll check the thread lengths and report back. One has to make dang sure that the coarse threads are not too long and interfere with block internals - on ANY engine. This is an easy way to crack a block - ask me how I 'learned' this lesson! It is now something I always check. :eek:

I'll update this thread and make a new post later . . . probably next week.

Dale
Click to expand...

Please do, thanks Dale!
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Valves: As I noticed you already had the late valves (non-mushroom stems), you may be able to reuse them. Clean them all up with a wire brush to get all the carbon/crap off them.

I would then put them in a lathe and check for straightness, then mic the stems and see what condition they are in and also see that they haven't been reground too many times - having no margin left for a regrind. If the valves look good, then I would polish the stems in the lathe while I was at it. I use some super-fine sandpaper that has already been used on something else - like 600 wet or dry.

Springs: I'd probably pickup a set of springs no mater what - as your engine sat for a long time, had water in it (rust), etc.. The Zephyr springs just have a bit more strength (pressure on the seats) than stock springs. Typically they have about 55 lbs on the seat (at installed height).

Guides: If your guides are good, you can reuse them - might be a good idea to send them to GOSFAST and have him put the bronze liners and seals on them - not a bad idea.
Click to expand...

Ron S. in CT (Ronnie the Roadster) also does guides. He machined mine so they are tapered at the top for better flow. His work is top notch and it's reasonable. I think $60 or something like that.
 
Ron Sangovinni (sp?) is a very good builder, especially when it comes to Ardun conversions. Excellent machinist.
 
Is the long style oil pump 50 lbs pressure?

I am looking to order some parts, like oil pressure relief spring and plunger. And also
Oil pressure sending unit. Again 59ab engine.
 
Macdozer...... just my opinion, but a lot of Speedway stuff is chinese origin. I personally believe you are much better going for US made product. I know Speedway is convenient, but you will find much US product still around. Joblot is a very good source, and njparts who are an Ebay seller have a lot of NOS USA stock. Gaskets? Best brand is great, they have recently re-jigged their holes so that head gaskets just drop straight on.
 
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