57 remote starter

[1930artdeco]

Hi All,

I would like to do a compression check on my 'new' engine before I pull the heads before a refurb. If I remember correctly, there is a stud on the starter that I can touch with a 12v charger to have it engage. Correct? Or do I have to go through the starter solenoid?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[miker98038]

If you ground the battery to the block, and touch the hot side to the starter terminal, it’s going to be a he— of an arc , probably with molten metals splashing around. Not recommend. I’d temporary a starter solenoid in with bolted connections (rather than clamps, but they’ll work). Locked rotor on a starter is dangerous.

I doubt a charger will produce enough current, but if it does it’s the same deal. Unless it’s switched on the charger.

 

[KULTULZ]

Here's what you need to use a battery as Mike described -

https://www.gearwrench.com/gearwrench-124dd-remote-control-starter-switch.html

Does the engine turn freely? Have you shot a little oil/penetrant into the cylinders and turn the engine by hand and let the rings soak? Do you know how to prime an engines oil pump/system?

 

[1930artdeco]

Thanks guys. It is been a very long time since I have dealt with something modern like the 57. I remember dad made up a switch that he would attach to the solenoid when he needed to do something under the hood. I just couldn’t remember if I needed to do that or I could just touch it like I do the mode A.

I have started pouring oil over things. I hit the rocker arms, pushrods and shot oil into the drivers side pistons. Still need to do the pass side. I have yet to try and turn her by hand. The dizzy is stuck tight so it is soaking as well. When I get the dizzy out I will try and prime the oil pump. Read about it but need to see if I can figure it out. Slowly going to try and wake her up.

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

Thanks guys. It is been a very long time since I have dealt with something modern like the 57. I remember dad made up a switch that he would attach to the solenoid when he needed to do something under the hood. I just couldn’t remember if I needed to do that or I could just touch it like I do the mode A.

I have started pouring oil over things. I hit the rocker arms, pushrods and shot oil into the drivers side pistons. Still need to do the pass side. I have yet to try and turn her by hand. The dizzy is stuck tight so it is soaking as well. When I get the dizzy out I will try and prime the oil pump. Read about it but need to see if I can figure it out. Slowly going to try and wake her up.

Mike

You can short the starter solenoid but a start switch as shown is a lot safer ($10 for a CHI-COM).

If it turns freely, consider a fresh oil change and prime before trying to start. If you need a pump drive directions, just ask.

As late as a '57? You must be into EARLY FORD.

Oh, remind me to ask about the CCV SYSTEM. The block mounted draft tube is missing on the block (repl by block-off plate). Does it have a valley cover mounted draft tube at the rear of the engine?

 

[dmsfrr]

Thanks guys. It is been a very long time since I have dealt with something modern like the 57. I remember dad made up a switch that he would attach to the solenoid when he needed to do something under the hood. I just couldn’t remember if I needed to do that or I could just touch it like I do the mode A.
. .

Image 1, a common 12v style starter solenoid.
On a 12v Ford built in '56 or later (into the 70's) the positive battery cable connects to one of the large terminal lugs and the big power cable to the starter connects to the other large terminal lug.
The solenoid is usually bolted to the inner fender or firewall. This grounds it electrically.

Image 2, when 12v power is applied to the "S" terminal the internal switch contacts close, activating the high current power connection to the starter. This is usually done with the ignition key switch and its wiring.
Sending 12v to the "S" terminal can also be easily done with a remote start switch or small jumper wire from a 12v source.

 

[Lanny]

Do as others have said and spray a little oil in each cylinder.
Also, keep the carb throttle plate open so each cylinder can
suck in some air as you are turning it over.




.

 

[1930artdeco]

Thank you al for the info. I have two solenoids so will use those, do they need to be grounded? The engine is on the ground right now so I guess I can ground them to the block somehow. I am just soaking things right now and in no big hurry. Besides, I have a dizzy to unstick first, then see if I can prime the oil pump to make sure things even move.


Mike

 

[dmsfrr]

Thank you al for the info. I have two solenoids so will use those, do they need to be grounded? The engine is on the ground right now so I guess I can ground them to the block somehow. ...

Yes the solenoid does need to be grounded. If there's a convenient bolt on the block you can use that or just fasten a separate ground wire to it from someplace on the engine or battery that you're using to turn over the engine.

 

[1930artdeco]

Thank you all, for helping me relearn things and not melt my engine (or me) down.

Mike

 

[1930artdeco]

"Oh, remind me to ask about the CCV SYSTEM. The block mounted draft tube is missing on the block (repl by block-off plate). Does it have a valley cover mounted draft tube at the rear of the engine?"

Hi K,

Yes at some point they yanked the road draft tube and blocked it off. They then installed PCV valve in the valley pan into the carb spacer. it also had vent hose from the oil fill pipe to the air cleaner. I will post pics of the system as I think it may be a factory/dealer/aftermarket set up.

Mike

 

[KULTULZ]

Yes at some point they yanked the road draft tube and blocked it off. They then installed PCV valve in the valley pan into the carb spacer. it also had vent hose from the oil fill pipe to the air cleaner. I will post pics of the system as I think it may be a factory/dealer/aftermarket set up.

Mike

Can you post other angle shots of the engine?

 

[1930artdeco]

How about these? Not sure where the rubber hose comes from to go into the manifold.

Mike