56 tbird steering play

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ChadCurrent

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It's been a while since I have been here but now spring is here I can work on the car again. I have been reading some posts I have searched but not quite sure where to look as everything seems pretty tight when up in the air. Steering box was pretty dry but I didn't see anything that really stood out as worn badly. It's been sitting in the garage since 1970's.

I am planing on pulling the steering box as I filled it and over the weekend it leaked out the column end all down the frame and on the floor by the next weekend. I am going to replace the seals and gaskets. I pulled the cover to see if it had a 2 or 3 tooth septor to order the right seal. "see picture" if I managed to load right. White stuff fell in there when I pulled it off so I cleaned it out.


If I barely touch the steering wheel the tires turn in the air or on the ground. I can't seem to find any noticeable play in the tie rods or where the pitman? connects to the drag link? Only real noticeable play is when driving. It seemed really bad until I replaced all 4 shocks with kyb gas a just shocks, Guessing it was the car swaying? and after putting the steering cover back on I ever so slightly snugged the flat slotted screw with a small screwdriver. I didn't know how tight to tighten it so I didn't want to tighten it too tight.

Currently I'd guess there's maybe an inch in either direction. I already bought new outside tie rods and sway bar links prematurely so I figure I'll go ahead and replace them anyways as I figure it can't hurt. What I'm wondering is I have read about idler arm wear but I don't exactly know how to check it. It seems tight? Should I remove it to inspect? replace the bushings anyhow? I assume they are replaceable?



Also Would an alignment fix this little amount of play ? I usually figure it's the very last thing you do after getting all the steering issues fixed.



Can't wait to get it roadworthy so I can get it off to paint :)



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Check the drag link first, the kit for my Ford was under $40. This is a 2 person job to check, one to turn the steering wheel and one to look at the drag link stud motion.
 
You need the WORKSHOP MANUAL for the car. In it will be explained the correct way to go about finding what is defective and how to repair it.
 
Is it the red 1956 ford shop manual the same thing?

Also I was searching for drag link kits if I might need one but the ones I find all say power steering or only show one spring. Will the shop manual show which repair kit is required?
 
My fault, I left out FORD.

It is a 56 BIRD. Is it manual or power assist?

A little secret. The box needs to be disconnected from the linkage and then the box condition is analyzed and adjusted/repaired first. Then you go to the linkages.

Otherwise you will be chasing your tail for weeks.
 
It's manual everything lol. Steering, windows, transmission, breaks, etc.


Which I was also wondering if one of those vh44 remote brake boosters I seen online would work with drum brakes ?
 
It's unusual for Ford's "Personal Luxury Car" to have "manual everything." My 55 has manual steering & brakes, but power seat, power windows, and Fordomatic. I could do without the power seat and windows, but modern power-assist steering would be nice when making u-turns, etc.

My 55 steering-gear box was bone dry and had considerable play. I sent it to Redhead Steering Gears in Washington. They took care of the play and filled it with 00 grease, which was also an early Corvette warranty repair to cure leaking boxes. I wouldn't hesitate to use Redhead again, but, hopefully, it will not be necessary.
 
Thanks for the link evintho. I'll be investigating it this weekend if weather permits.

55blacktie. It might have had an automatic in the past but I've never seen it. It was converted to a bw t10 4 speed some time in its life.
 
If your drag link has all the inner parts (springs, plungers, ball-stud captures, etc), you can usually get away with pumping new grease in and adjusting the drag link compression in accordance with the shop manual. Anytime this is messed with, it should require at least a new toe-in adjustment.
As far as the gear box leakage, sometimes the bottom seal needs to be replaced, however many assume it is always the bottom seal and never check to see if the horn wire tube in the middle is cracked or loose at the base. If the bottom of the pitman arm isn't wet with 90 wt oil, I'm betting that the horn wire tube has been abused.
That can occur if a bad front end accident had occurred in the past, resulting in a bent steering tube. Or the abuse could have occurred at the hands of an inexperienced gearbox rebuilder. This can be fixed or replaced with a new tube available at many repro parts suppliers.
If 90 wt oil is running down onto the frame side-rail and drips down where the frame levels out, it is a good bet that the horn wire tube inside the gearbox is at fault. It could also be a breach in the gearbox top cover gasket, but only a small amount of oil can leak out. If the horn wire tube is leaking, almost ALL of the 90 wt oil will leak out.
if you send your gearbox to a rebuilder such as Lares Corp, put a note in with it for them to check for the center tube for leakage and repair it. Sometimes, they can just put a tapered drift pin in the tube and blast it with a hammer to get it to quit leaking.
 
Yea that's way too expensive for me. Any cheaper options?
I'm not going for a period correct car, just a nice summer weekend driver.

Also can I use a ball joint separation tool to separate the drag link bolt from the pitman arm? I don't want to damage it. I can't seem to get it apart so I can check out the steering box for play. Drag link seems pretty tight. Looks like he might have serviced everything past the pitman before it was parked.
 
Chad, your best alternative is improving the drum brakes. Really good shoe lining, all good parts, etc. This is from a $ standpoint. Since the asbestos linings went away, the cheaper replacements just aren’t as good. There are some better ones (someone here will know). Not cheap, but cheaper than the whole oem booster from a reliable source.

You’ll also find parts list available to convert the existing brakes to self adjusting. I don’t think 56 had those, I know my 55 didn’t. Front and rear. Again, this makes a difference, more in the pedal height than pressure.

From driving 55 bird drums in the 60’s, you really don’t need disc or power unless your really hammering things.
 
ChadCurrent said:
Yea that's way too expensive for me. Any cheaper options?
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miker has your answer above. With correct lining material and a good hydraulic system, it should do OK on the street.

Also can I use a ball joint separation tool to separate the drag link bolt from the pitman arm? I don't want to damage it.
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Shown below is a puller. You can usually borrow or rent one from a box store.
 

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Everything related to brakes is brand new with exception to the Ts and the front shoes which were new never used back in the 70s so I went ahead and used them.
I put on a new master cylinder, all 4 wheel cylinders and every single hose and line is brand new. Also new shoes in the rear from napa. It stops, I just don't like the pedal effort required. Definitely not used to it. One day I would like to change the front to Granada spindles & disc brakes and a dual master cylinder but mostly trying to get it drivable for some local car shows and cruises without worrying about how it steers and stops.

I failed to get the pitman arm disconnected from the drag link Saturday so I'm going to have to rent a tool this coming weekend.
 
New, even nos shoes aren’t really the answer. Most of those are a lower cost lining, whatever the rebuilder is using. Try starting a new thread about brake linings, someone who knows what the premium set up is will probably respond. I haven’t had drums in quite a while, so I don’t know what’s out there.

Remember the Granada spindles lower the car in front, so if you don’t want a rake you’ll need to deal with the rear (lowering blocks work fine).
 
ChadCurrent said:
Everything related to brakes is brand new with exception to the Ts and the front shoes which were new never used back in the 70s so I went ahead and used them.

I put on a new master cylinder, all 4 wheel cylinders and every single hose and line is brand new. Also new shoes in the rear from napa. It stops, I just don't like the pedal effort required. Definitely not used to it.
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Most likely the new MC has no PRESSURE RESIDUAL VALVE. That and shoe drum clearance w/o self-adjusters is going to give a lackluster pedal. And it will take a while for the new shoes to seat into the drums (arc). You didn't get rid of the old MC and wheel cylinders did you?

One day I would like to change the front to Granada spindles & disc brakes and a dual master cylinder but mostly trying to get it drivable for some local car shows and cruises without worrying about how it steers and stops.
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There are systems that offer opposed four-piston calipers and will bolt to your present spindles with included adapters. That will be far better than the GRANADA SWAP (IMO) and will not change front-end geometry.

I failed to get the pitman arm disconnected from the drag link Saturday so I'm going to have to rent a tool this coming weekend.
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Don't beat on it as the BIRD M/S DRAG LINK is unobtainable.

For street friction material, use either BENDIX or RAYBESTOS RIVETED PREMIUM linings. NAPA is guesswork. If you want more aggressive brakes, a company like PORTERFIELD has different lining materials to bring it down as fast as you want.

To mount a vacuum type booster in a BIRD, the BATT usually has to be relocated. Not for the squeamish.

I was going to reply to this earlier but lazy-a$$ kept me away from it ... :o
 
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