56 Merc check my level

Abchoppers

Member
Hi all, I’ve been told by a few old timers, and rightfully so, that the rear of my car looks to be higher than stock. I can see that it definitely isn’t level, but do you guys think my rear is higher than stock or is it possible the front is lower from sagging springs?

I’m starting the Aerostar spring conversion to lower the front, and plan on doing a new 3” drop leaf spring in the rear. I was just trying to get an idea how it would look when done. I’m concerned if I get the full 3” from the Aerostar’s that some report it’ll be too low, but maybe I’m already an inch or two lower from the springs being old. I’ve included a pic of my leaf springs in case anything is obvious to you guys

Thanks for any help
 

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Pretty car. I did a set of Aerostar’s on my bird, but no first hand experience on a passenger car. 3” seems like a lot to me, and I’ve read some rather widely varying results. Probably because who knows what they started with.

I’d put the Aerostar’s in and give it a bit to settle, both time and miles before I ordered dropped rear springs. The stock ride specs will be in the shop manual, so at least you’d establish a base line to what it’s settled. If I had any doubts, I’d buy a set of lowering blocks and bolts before I spent the money on new springs.

You look a little high in back to me, but that’s just me. I kind of like them level. But from a picture on a lift, camera angle, and some astigmatism, I wouldn’t take my opinion anywhere but to my bank.
 
Pretty car. I did a set of Aerostar’s on my bird, but no first hand experience on a passenger car. 3” seems like a lot to me, and I’ve read some rather widely varying results. Probably because who knows what they started with.

I’d put the Aerostar’s in and give it a bit to settle, both time and miles before I ordered dropped rear springs. The stock ride specs will be in the shop manual, so at least you’d establish a base line to what it’s settled. If I had any doubts, I’d buy a set of lowering blocks and bolts before I spent the money on new springs.

You look a little high in back to me, but that’s just me. I kind of like them level. But from a picture on a lift, camera angle, and some astigmatism, I wouldn’t take my opinion anywhere but to my bank.

Thanks for the reply. That’s exactly what I was thinking, drop the front and wait on the back to determine how much drop it actually needs. I’m hoping to only get around 2” of drop in the front. If it’s too much I think I can use a rubber spacer underneath the spring to raise it up a bit. The car has a slight rake to it even off the lift on level surfaces, so your eyes ain’t that bad!

Thanks again for your help
 
You running illegal shine on the weekends?

If it were me, I would wait until you install the front lowering springs and then find a way to lower the rear, whether springs or blocks, to get your desired trim level.

The correct OEM trim level/height(s) should be listed in the correct year WSM.
 
I’ve never done it, just read posts about it. But the Mustang sites list some rubber spacers of the right size. Apparently used to set ride height for shorter stiffer springs for the auto cross or road racing guys. You can look into that if required.

Might need to trim the bump stops too. But don’t eliminate them. And there’s some high tech ones that might be usable if required. I don’t think a 2” drop will get that complicated.
 
You running illegal shine on the weekends?

If it were me, I would wait until you install the front lowering springs and then find a way to lower the rear, whether springs or blocks, to get your desired trim level.

The correct OEM trim level/height(s) should be listed in the correct year WSM.

You caught me, I’m moonshining for car money!
I’ll stick with the front for now, then figure out the back 👍
Thank you
 

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I’ve never done it, just read posts about it. But the Mustang sites list some rubber spacers of the right size. Apparently used to set ride height for shorter stiffer springs for the auto cross or road racing guys. You can look into that if required.

Might need to trim the bump stops too. But don’t eliminate them. And there’s some high tech ones that might be usable if required. I don’t think a 2” drop will get that complicated.

I read on the HAMB about guys using some spacers, hopefully don’t need them but at least I’ll have an out if needed. Thanks for the tip on the bump stops, all good info
 
The rear leaf springs appear to be overload springs due to number of leafs and raising of the rear, Maybe the previous owner bought an off-brand set or had them re-arched/reinforced and the spring shop got a little carried away.

Depending on how the final trim level comes out, you may have to take into consideration shock travel.

Are you just wanting to lower the stance?
 
The rear leaf springs appear to be overload springs due to number of leafs and raising of the rear, Maybe the previous owner bought an off-brand set or had them re-arched/reinforced and the spring shop got a little carried away.

Depending on how the final trim level comes out, you may have to take into consideration shock travel.

Are you just wanting to lower the stance?

I just want to lower the stance. My plan is to probably use 3” drop leaf springs, but if I’m already higher than stock I’m just worried about how much lower a 3” drop leaf will leave me. If I did use the 3” drop leaf’s and new shocks, would that eliminate the travel issue?
Thanks
 
When you change the fronts, get the measurement first at whatever location the manual says. Then you’ll know where you are from “new stock”. Count the turns on the old coils, and measure the free night. Measure the Aerostars before they go in. Then you’ll, have some baseline information of where you were and where you are. That’s going to make it a lot easier to confidently order the new springs for the rear. Much better chance of a good outcome.

The rear springs are going to be more money. If you’re an inch high now, you’ll want to know. Because that 3” advertised drop is from a new spec spring. A drivable tail dragger is one thing, a tail pipe dragger is another.
 
When you change the fronts, get the measurement first at whatever location the manual says. Then you’ll know where you are from “new stock”. Count the turns on the old coils, and measure the free night. Measure the Aerostars before they go in. Then you’ll, have some baseline information of where you were and where you are. That’s going to make it a lot easier to confidently order the new springs for the rear. Much better chance of a good outcome.

The rear springs are going to be more money. If you’re an inch high now, you’ll want to know. Because that 3” advertised drop is from a new spec spring. A drivable tail dragger is one thing, a tail pipe dragger is another.

All good advice, thank you. I’ll take my measurements before I order anything for sure, especially since 3” drop leafs look to be around $550. I also regularly haul 3 kids around in the backseat, I’m not looking to be scraping
 
I got the 56 Merc shop manual today. It says for all models the ground clearance to the rear axle diff carrier is 8 inches. Mine measures 8 inches to the ground, yet every picture of other 56 Mercs look much lower in the rear than mine, I don’t get it. Is it possible I have a different rear end? I ordered a rear differential cover gasket and it’s the correct one for a 56 but doesn’t fit. I’ve included a picture.

The manual says front suspension height at normal load is 9.59 inches, but doesn’t state where to measure this from, any ideas?
Thanks all
 

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I got the 56 Merc shop manual today. It says for all models the ground clearance to the rear axle diff carrier is 8 inches. Mine measures 8 inches to the ground, yet every picture of other 56 Mercs look much lower in the rear than mine, I don’t get it. Is it possible I have a different rear end? I ordered a rear differential cover gasket and it’s the correct one for a 56 but doesn’t fit. I’ve included a picture.

The manual says front suspension height at normal load is 9.59 inches, but doesn’t state where to measure this from, any ideas?

Thanks all

The manual you bought, was it paper or CD?

Below are photos (if readable) of a 56 restoration and an old BW photo.

The CONV is skewed as it has skirts. The BW photo is dark but I believe it shows the correct stance.

The rear is sporting an aluminum cover. You would have to find the DANA ID NOS on the case and tubes to chase that down.

Are you sure the car was not a tanker and/or are you runnin' shine?
 

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Can you post a photo(s) of the u-bolts/spring?

Measure from the frame rail (front and back) to a level surface.
 
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