56 Merc 312 Distributor

Hey, y’sguy I don’t have it running, it can be timed now. I am working on gas and vacuum lines now. I have not had a lot of time lately but I think the distributor thing has worked out, with some great help. I have a great blue spark at the plugs, so I am thinking if I can bring fuel and fire at the right time it will start. I did use the mystery oil to coat the cylinders, and it turn over great. I have a water leak that I have not found yet, but it is up front so I am hoping for a water pump gasket, since the hoses are new.

I am looking forward to getting a little more free time to work on it, thanks for the checkup and all of your help.
 
Don't forget to check the valves as Ole Don suggested earlier in this thread to prevent bending and/or losing pushrods. :eek::eek:
 
Yea, I have a valve cover off again. I used the trick that y’sguy suggested for finding TDC, so pulling the other and checking the valves and push rods should be a snap.
 
Sounds like you're making good progress. Be patient. I recently brought a y back to life and rather than fix vacuum leaks or chase them I removed the vacuum lines and plugged all the potential suspects with pipe plugs . The engine will run without them.You can get them later with new lines. Fuel can be handles with a new temporary flex fuel line and a small aux gas tank by gravity feed. All this eliminates the guesswork of faulty installs of bad lines or fuel pumps. All to be added back later, one at a time.
Have you been able to try spinning the oil pump yet, for oil to the rockers? I would check that before firing. IMHO.
If fresh oil is dripping or pooling in the head. You're go to try to fire it.
FYI, this car is a perfect example of potential fuel issues because it has been sitting so long. Be ready to possibly replace fuel lines and gas tank. I know it may sound drastic but I've chased these fuel issues on old cars before and one tends to just keep replacing and replacing till its all done anyway. Hopefully you won't have to go thru this. Fuel line corrode on the inside and release fine oxidation into the stream and clog the filter, over and over.
 
I agree y’sguy, I was able to pull the other valve cover and make sure valves and rockers are all functioning. I think that making sure that she is pumping oil would be a great next move. I am ******* this weekend so it will probably be a couple weeks before I am able to pull the distributor and spin the pump.

The fuel thing is concerning, I would assume I could rig the temp tank from a fuel can and some line.
 
the fuel thing is easy. Simple fuel line with clamps from the carb to a small lawnmower style tank or CLOSED container. Hang it off something so it is higher than the carb. Have a FIRE extinguisher handy. The tank only needs to be less than a quart or so so. It shouldn't be hanging over the car or engine bay, but out away to the side. just keep it out of your way so you don't knock the contraption over. You could use a filter inline if the "tank" isn't perfectly clean. REPEAT…Have a FIRE extinguisher handy.

We'll wait right here…
 
Well, Y'sguy I wish I had better news. I was working on the gravity tank and caused myself a problem. First I twisted up the metal gas line, and I also bloke the plug that the gas line screws into. So I am headed out to find a new plug. I am not sure if I can repair the line or not. So I am googling parts today.

I guess some good news would be the fuel system seems to be working well. I get a good quantity of fuel when I turn her over. The fuel has a darkish rusty tint, and a foul smell. I think you were on the money advising me to eliminate the fuel system from the possible problem list. I am going to drain all the fuel out and replace it while I am working with the lines anyway.

So I guess this is just drawing out more and more, but since the car has set for so long I shouldn't expect anything different.

Thanks for checking back with me.
 
what will happen if you run a newer carb. with a stock 56 distributor as you state never do ths
Hot Rod Reverend said:
ditto form Y-blockhead. If you are going to do anything to this engine to get into running shape you WILL NEED TO HAVE THAT DISTRIBUTOR ROTATE in its bore, I don't care what anyone says. Fact is, the rotation of that distributor is your main timing feature... you need to get that loose first.

Once you do, bring #1 cylinder up to TDC and then make sure your rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap (most caps will have #1 identified). Then secure your distributor to the block with the bolt and hold-down.

The distributors that have vacuum and mechanical advance can be run with an old carb if you plug the carb's vacuum signal port and only run mechanical advance, or if you run manifold advance to your distributor. Also, you can modify the carb itself (there are helpful articles on the internet from engine builder Ted Eaton) to read the proper signal for your distributor.

Whatever you do, never run an old distributor (pre-57) with a 57 or later carburetor.
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The '56 distributor is a vacuum advance only distributor (Load-o-matic) and the vacuum port (or signal) is in the incorrect place on the later carbs. This make the distributor advance in the wrong place. Think of the '56 carb and distributor as a 'matched set'.

The later distributors have both vacuum and mechanical advance.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
The '56 distributor is a vacuum advance only distributor (Load-o-matic) and the vacuum port (or signal) is in the incorrect place on the later carbs. This make the distributor advance in the wrong place. Think of the '56 carb and distributor as a 'matched set'.

The later distributors have both vacuum and mechanical advance.
Click to expand...

YOU ARE SPOT ON!

I wish there was a way to get this information out to mid 50's Ford owners everywhere to clear up a lot of the problems associated with the mismatching. Most folks just simply are not aware.
 
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