55 Wagon gas tank sending unit

Daves55Sedan

Daves55Sedan

Well-known member
Anybody here ever needed to replace the gas tank sending unit in 52-56 ford Wagon (converted to 12 volts).
Doesn't look to me like anyone offers a bolt-on that requires no modifications.
What did you use???
 
Jeff, I am using a 1956 Ford car fuel guage, so I don't need that regulator, but you would need to use that if you had a '57 or later fuel guage.
My '56 guage does work. It is the sending unit that is inoperative. Yes, I do have a separate ground wire running back to the sending unit fastened to the sending unit housing with one of the mounting screws and star washer to make good electrical contact. The problem is in the sending unit itself. It is just too badly corroded.
 
The only sender that will work with the '56 gauge is the correct '56 one. You would be better off going back to any other pre '56 gauge, as any '55 or earlier sender will be compatible.
 
Okay so if I go with a modern replacement type sending unit that you can buy at Mac's, I would need to replace my '56 guage with the '55 guage, but then I would also need to run the power wire thru a regulator to the "I" terminal of the guage like they did for the '57 and later models??? true or false???
 
If the replacement sender is a '57 unit adapted to fit the earlier tank, then true. If it is a universal after market type my experience is not. The most common problem I have found with any of the reproduction senders when used with original gauges (if they work at all) is that they don't work through the full range of the gauge. They tend to sit on full while most of the gas is consumed and then drop to empty with very little gas left.
The best sender to use is the original if you still have it. If it was working on 6 volts it will work fine on 12 with no other additions. Same goes for the temperature by the way.
The senders in all pre '57 King Seeley gauge systems have bi-metallic controlled contacts. Increasing the voltage merely increases the speed at which the contact break point is reached.
 
If you pull up the link for C&G I posted you will notice it is specific for 1956 SW's ONLY the wagons and Courier have a different shape tank than the sedans and hardtops do so how lucky do you feel taking a gamble trying something else ?
 
JeffB2 said:
If you pull up the link for C&G I posted you will notice it is specific for 1956 SW's ONLY the wagons and Courier have a different shape tank than the sedans and hardtops do so how lucky do you feel taking a gamble trying something else ?
Click to expand...

C & G can keep their NOS part for $165.00. There is no difference in the sending unit mounting hole pattern between the 55/56 wagon and car gas tanks. The difference in the two is the actuator arm length and location of the bend in the rod due to the different depths of the tanks.

I am going to install an aftermarket repro and modify the actuator arm to fit the wagon gas tank.

The question now is, do I replace the '56 guage with a '55 guage and run it off the regulator?
 
Dave, when I converted my 55 to 12 volt I ordered a solid state regulator from a place in Florida. Found them on E-bay. They may advertise in CVA FOMOCO Times, too. Unit is small, about one inch square and can mount to backside of dash with double sided tape. Doesn't get hot like a big resistor. Comes with instructions. Simple hook up and can run temp gauge from same unit. Post if you don't locate them and I will find my paper work and let you know the company. Ben
 
CrownVic55 said:
Dave, when I converted my 55 to 12 volt I ordered a solid state regulator from a place in Florida.
Click to expand...

I already have an original regulator out of a '57 and Mac's offers a duplicate of same.

So I am guessing you kept your original '55, 6 volt gauges and just introduced the regulator in the power lead (+) and connected to the "I" terminal of both gauges, right?
 
Daves55Sedan said:
C & G can keep their NOS part for $165.00. There is no difference in the sending unit mounting hole pattern between the 55/56 wagon and car gas tanks. The difference in the two is the actuator arm length and location of the bend in the rod due to the different depths of the tanks.

I am going to install an aftermarket repro and modify the actuator arm to fit the wagon gas tank.

The question now is, do I replace the '56 guage with a '55 guage and run it off the regulator?
Click to expand...
That should do the trick ;)
 
Daves55Sedan said:
I already have an original regulator out of a '57 and Mac's offers a duplicate of same.

So I am guessing you kept your original '55, 6 volt gauges and just introduced the regulator in the power lead (+) and connected to the "I" terminal of both gauges, right?
Click to expand...

That is correct, Dave. Works fine and no excess heat.
Ben
 
when I converted my wagon to 12 volt I kept the stock gauges with the exception of amp gauge I swapped the guts with a new volt gauge to my faceplate as for the others I used a ford regulator from an early mustang but any one should work I remember reading on the barn that the gauges used 6 volt for quite a while ck out rock auto or your local auto parts store about $20.00 maybe you could swap the gauge that goes with sender into your gauge face panel good luck
 
HOTRODPRIMER said:
Have you looked at this sending unit from Bob Drake.
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HRP, I think drakes sending unit is better than the repro I just got. I just received a modern repro from Concours. It is not stainless steel and the arm is not adjustable like Drakes is.
I have already cutoff the arm shorter, welded it back on and bent it to fit the wagon gas tank. The movement has a tendency to stick at the 1/4 full mark, so I bent the arm slightly more to the right, causing the buoyancy of the float to pull the arm away from the point where it hangs up.
It has been really crazy re-making this thing to get it to work.
The next step is to remove my instrument cluster and replace my gauges with original '55 gauges and install a constant voltage regulator I got from Mac's. And then I need to test the operation to see if the gauges themselves need to be adjusted. I am betting they will.
 
If your gas gauge was working before you converted to 12V, all you need to do is get a voltage regulator and hook it to feed wire for gauges from ignition and you will be done. You DO NOT have to change any senders for gauges. Thy are stupit and don't know 6Vpositive or 12V negative !
 
All Ford dash gauges from 1932 till 1972 were all 6V gauges. From 1956 till 1972 you need to have a voltage gauge regulator in the feed wire from ignition to the gauges, oil, temp, gas but not the amp gauge. You use all the original senders for these gauges on 6V or 12V it doesn't matter.
 
BOSSY said:
All Ford dash gauges from 1932 till 1972 were all 6V gauges. From 1956 till 1972 you need to have a voltage gauge regulator in the feed wire from ignition to the gauges, oil, temp, gas but not the amp gauge. You use all the original senders for these gauges on 6V or 12V it doesn't matter.
Click to expand...

Gee, I hate it when the teacher needs to be corrected.:rolleyes::rolleyes: The 56 Ford gauges were 12 volt, and in 57, they went back to 6 volts.:):)
 
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