Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
Beginning with the inner rocker cutout, I decided to keep the top 1-1/2 inch, since I found that I could run the guiding edge of the bottom of my old jigsaw directly up against the 90 degree bend at the floorline and have a perfectly straight cut 1-1/2 inch below the floor and use that portion hanging down to fasten a new panel to with sheetmetal screws. Miraculously, the jigsaw physically fit between the inner rocker and the car frame rail with room to spare for my hand to hold the handle! At the bottom of the existing outer rocker, I ground off the welds that held what was left of the inner rocker to the outer rocker, and removed all the rusted out metal fragments. I had to cut off the length of the inner rocker from about the front of the back door all the way to the back end where it had once connected to the rear wheelwell.
A flat sheet was cutout to fit from the very top (at the floor bend) all the way to the bottom with an additional 1/4 inch at the bottom to bend over at 90 degrees to match the existing rocker panel design. To make this long bend, I used the 90 degree angles and workbench vice as described above. I used my handheld sheetmetal punch to punch holes for sheetmetal screws within the top 1-1/2 inch area of the new panel. I fitted the new panel in place under the car and clamped it so I could mark the holes with an ink pen onto the remaining top 1-1/2 metal. Then I removed the new panel and coated both sides with cold galvanizing compound and primered and applied enamel overcoat only to the backside of the new panel. Luckily, my handheld sheetmetal punch would also physically fit in the cutout area to punch mating holes at the inked marks in the top remaining 1-1/2 inch of the inner rocker on the car. After the holes were punched, I re-installed the panel with the sheetmetal screws and clamps at the bottom to make sure it fit and the holes all lined up. Now it will be removed again so that I can have access thru the backside to install a new outer rocker patch.
The outer rocker cutout was overlaid with thin cardboard to make a template for the new metal patch piece. The new piece was cutout of a flat sheet leaving extra space at top & bottom for bending to a tight fit when inserted thru the backside where the missing inner rocker was. In addition, a narrow strip of metal was cutout and welded to the backside of the new patch piece to assist in aligning it flush with the existing outer rocker. After welding & cleaning, I sprayed the backside of the patch piece with cold galvanizing compound, then enamel overcoat. After inserting the new piece thru the backside, I had to poke some wood and shims resting on the back of the panel and forced up against the car frame to hold it flush for welding. It turned out fair.
I cleaned the backside of the new outer patch piece and as much of the existing rocker as I could with a homemade hose attachment on a vacuum cleaner, then wiped out the inside with a cloth dunked in laquer thinner. I sprayed rust converter/primer as best I could inside the rocker, then sprayed some cheap enamel overcoat over it. Now the inner rocker patch could finally be permanently welded on.
Moving on from here toward the back where the gravel shield goes, there was a rusthole that had to be cut out and patched with new metal. The area is puctured below in a state of bondo work. Also in this same area, I had to cut out a portion of the doorsill where it curves upward. I made a new metal patch piece cut to fit and welded flush with the existing metal. The patch piece was held in place with magnets temporarily for welding. That patchwork was already finished when this photo was taken.
A flat sheet was cutout to fit from the very top (at the floor bend) all the way to the bottom with an additional 1/4 inch at the bottom to bend over at 90 degrees to match the existing rocker panel design. To make this long bend, I used the 90 degree angles and workbench vice as described above. I used my handheld sheetmetal punch to punch holes for sheetmetal screws within the top 1-1/2 inch area of the new panel. I fitted the new panel in place under the car and clamped it so I could mark the holes with an ink pen onto the remaining top 1-1/2 metal. Then I removed the new panel and coated both sides with cold galvanizing compound and primered and applied enamel overcoat only to the backside of the new panel. Luckily, my handheld sheetmetal punch would also physically fit in the cutout area to punch mating holes at the inked marks in the top remaining 1-1/2 inch of the inner rocker on the car. After the holes were punched, I re-installed the panel with the sheetmetal screws and clamps at the bottom to make sure it fit and the holes all lined up. Now it will be removed again so that I can have access thru the backside to install a new outer rocker patch.
The outer rocker cutout was overlaid with thin cardboard to make a template for the new metal patch piece. The new piece was cutout of a flat sheet leaving extra space at top & bottom for bending to a tight fit when inserted thru the backside where the missing inner rocker was. In addition, a narrow strip of metal was cutout and welded to the backside of the new patch piece to assist in aligning it flush with the existing outer rocker. After welding & cleaning, I sprayed the backside of the patch piece with cold galvanizing compound, then enamel overcoat. After inserting the new piece thru the backside, I had to poke some wood and shims resting on the back of the panel and forced up against the car frame to hold it flush for welding. It turned out fair.
I cleaned the backside of the new outer patch piece and as much of the existing rocker as I could with a homemade hose attachment on a vacuum cleaner, then wiped out the inside with a cloth dunked in laquer thinner. I sprayed rust converter/primer as best I could inside the rocker, then sprayed some cheap enamel overcoat over it. Now the inner rocker patch could finally be permanently welded on.
Moving on from here toward the back where the gravel shield goes, there was a rusthole that had to be cut out and patched with new metal. The area is puctured below in a state of bondo work. Also in this same area, I had to cut out a portion of the doorsill where it curves upward. I made a new metal patch piece cut to fit and welded flush with the existing metal. The patch piece was held in place with magnets temporarily for welding. That patchwork was already finished when this photo was taken.
