55/56 Fairlane radiator
- Thread starter Sid
- Start date
Sid
Well-known member
I did look in the cap. All I see is 2 rows with approx. 1/4" round holes. I have looked in 3 different radiators and all the same. Not the tapered looking tube like most radiators. Has anyone built some compression & horsepower without cooling problems while using the stock radiator?
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
Sid, I think what you might be seeing there is the baffle plate that sits above the radiator core itself, inside the top radiator tank. Many people don't know they ever existed because if the radiator had been re-cored at some point, the radiator repair shop often did not re-install that baffle plate. With the baffle in place, you cannot see the top of the tubes because it is in the way although it does have some round holes in it.
I have copper pipes in my house that I installed new in 1979, that turned green and sprung leaks some 25 or so years later. Copper doesn't last forever and the older it gets, the more brittle it becomes. So if it is an old core that you can rod out, be careful in the process and test for leaks before re-installing. Trying to solder up a leak in an old core is very iffy because the copper might be corroded. The torch can easily open up new leaks.
These '55/56 car radiator cores are interchangeable with trucks of various makes and years thru the '50's and were still easily obtainable at most radiator shops years back. Some of the resto parts suppliers (Mac's, Concours, etc) offer new complete radiators in 3-row or 4-row cooling and also offer all aluminum radiators (if you wanna pay the price). I know this doesn't answer you question, but food for thought if you find yourself going down this road.
I have copper pipes in my house that I installed new in 1979, that turned green and sprung leaks some 25 or so years later. Copper doesn't last forever and the older it gets, the more brittle it becomes. So if it is an old core that you can rod out, be careful in the process and test for leaks before re-installing. Trying to solder up a leak in an old core is very iffy because the copper might be corroded. The torch can easily open up new leaks.
These '55/56 car radiator cores are interchangeable with trucks of various makes and years thru the '50's and were still easily obtainable at most radiator shops years back. Some of the resto parts suppliers (Mac's, Concours, etc) offer new complete radiators in 3-row or 4-row cooling and also offer all aluminum radiators (if you wanna pay the price). I know this doesn't answer you question, but food for thought if you find yourself going down this road.
TedEaton
Senior Member
I use to run the stock 6 cyl and V8 radiators with 406's and 427's in a 1956 Ford Customline Victoria without any heating problems while running down the road. Would always struggle with some heat build up in traffic but never did run any fan shrouds. Never had an issue with puking out any coolant so I'd say it wasn't overheating. Ted Eaton.
scicala
Well-known member
I agree with Ted Eaton's results. I put a hopped up Chevy 350 (sorry guys) with about 400 HP in a '52 Customline that had the 6 cyl. radiator. I had a fan on the engine, plus an electric fan in front of the radiator. While moving it always ran cool. When stopped and idling the temp would creep up. Then I would turn on the electric fan and all was good.
Sal
Sal
JeffB2
Well-known member
Several guys in my HAMB 1952-59 Ford Group have used these and are very satisfied: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KR-Champion...ash=item25d9d57d80:g:8GYAAOSwmtJXVvgP&vxp=mtr
Sid
Well-known member
55/56 Fords have a lot of sheet metal below the radiator,2 panels. Does this serve a purpose? Does it trap more heat in the engine compartment? It seems as it may not allow the hot air from the radiator to escape. The fan is a steel 6 blade from a pick-up truck and is not much more than 1" from the radiator. Does any one have any ideas on this? Do people usually eliminate the sheet metal?
Alaska Jim
Well-known member
all the shields that were installed at the factory are needed to direct air flow to get the maximum cooling. if you do not have a fan shroud, the optimum distance for the fan to radiator clearance is 3/4". if you do have a shroud, the fan blades should protrude no more than 1/2 way into the shroud opening. if you are missing any of the factory sheet metal in front of the radiator, I say find some and install it. It is there to direct all possible air through the radiator, not around it. a lot of times there is also some type of seal where the sheet metal meets other parts to complete the proper flow of all available air through the radiator
TJ
Well-known member
check these guys; www.usradiator.com. They have radiators in aluminum and copper/brass.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
Times 2
The oem front sheet-metal works like a funnel, to maximize airflow thru the radiator.
(aftermarket/electric cooling fans are another topic)
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Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
I see some talk about shrouds and I agree, but he is working on a full size car which does not have a fan shroud like the T-Birds did. The cars came from the factory with sheet metal plates that bolted to the underside of the frame behind the radiator to direct airflow coming thru the radiator past the engine as an aid in cooling. In addition to this, the cars that had the 182 HP engine also had a top air deflector in front of the radiator that blocked air from going over the top of the radiator and forced all the air thru the cooling fins. I recommend if your car is missing the bottom pieces or the top air deflector (if applicable), you should try to get them and install them.
Alaska Jim
Well-known member
If you can not get the sheet metal pieces that Daves55Sedan is talking about, try to find a car that has them so you can see where they go and how they are shaped, then you an make some cardboard templates and fit them to your car. once you are satisfied how they fit , take your patterns to a sheet metal shop and have them fabricate them if you can not do it your self.
Sid
Well-known member
All the sheet metal is on the car. Car was a 162 H/P factory. No deflector over rad. I had one on a parts car but may have sold it. I am considering an aluminum Champion as I see they have more tubes for cooling. I had my rad. flow tested today and was fine but the cooling fins are starting to separate from the tubes. Thus lose of efficiency. Between 10-20 % rad. man said. It may be okay if I were still running the stock 272 but now running a 312 just shy of 11-1 compression.
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
I could see doing that if you only drove in the winter and all your driving was on the highway. Both my car and my Courier have mainly been used on the highway and they actually run too cold during the winter, but once you get back in town where there is a lot of traffic control, they warm up to normal temperature. I wouldn't be able to take the fan off and leave it off as both cars seem to run a little too hot during summer, especially when driving in town.
