'55-'56 auto trans renoval?

[Ford Freak]

Hey guys! What's involved in removing the auto trans on a '55-'56 Fairlane. My car has a 351C & c4 auto. I don't see how the trans. will clear the rear frame crossmember. I am not talking about the rear trans. mount. That piece comes out fine. I am talking about the crossmember that the parking brake arm, adjuster, cables, etc. is attached to. I see some pics online that show the same issue with stock 292-312 w/Fordomatic. My shop manual doesn't even talk about auto trans. removal. Thanks - F F

 

[KULTULZ]

GO TO-

PG 126

b. REMOVAL

(1) CONVENTIONAL CAR

... and there will be a brief description.

You didn't mention the drive-line upgrade. A SLEEPER or runnin' shine on the weekends?

 

[rotorwrench]

On the original installation, the bell housing and trans can be separated prior to finally pulling forward and down to remove the trans. With a different motor and trans it makes it a different removal process. If the trans can go far enough back to remove the bell then it may be doable. The torque converter would likely have to be pulled as well just to get to the bell bolts.

The 335 engines used FMX and C6 transmissions as well depending on application. The C4 was for lighter duty applications but it was used behind the 351C.

 

[Ford Freak]

KULTULZ, I have been over p. 125 many times. Like I said in my original post, There is no mention of the 2 spd. Fordomatic trans. removal. Only the 3 spd. manual & overdrive trans.

rotowrench, It's a 351C 2V engine & c4 out of a 72 Mustang. Was in it when I got the car.

There is nothing wrong w/my trans., I just noticed looking around underneath my car that removing the trans. looks complicated & difficult. Thanks! F F

 

[Rmid55]

Here is a video of a guy removing his transmission out of his 54 that may be helpful. Similar setup to 55-56.https://youtu.be/xsrCiz07GyM?is=qKkHhqoShHDS2RgT

 

[KULTULZ]

KULTULZ, I have been over p. 125 many times. Like I said in my original post, There is no mention of the 2 spd. Fordomatic trans. removal. Only the 3 spd. manual & overdrive trans.

The WSM I am reading is online as I had (have) most everything but never got a 56 FORD WSM for whatever reason.

The WSM is updated every quarter of the model year run to make additions/corrections as is the MPC. I find it implausible (not doubting your word) the procedure is not included with every printing.

The 1954-56 frame was not that strong so as to why the x-members placement.

On the FORD. you unbolt the convertor from the flex-plate, and the bell from the engine and move the trans rearward over the x-member until it clears to be able to drop nose first.

The BIRD calls for removal with the engine. It can be broken down and removed in sections but that is not good practice installing a new or rebuilt.

READ HERE - https://www.scribd.com/document/871837358/1956Ford-ThunderebirdShopManual

BTW - The WSM was for trained and experienced techs and the average guy has to learn/adapt as he/she/it goes.

 

[KULTULZ]

BTW - THE FORD-O-MATIC is a THREE SPEED AUTOMATIC SINGLE-RANGE using a 2nd gear start unless a 1st gear start is initiated manually. The later CRUISE-O-MAIC (1958/ ) was a DUAL RANGE that started in 1st unless a 2nd gear start was chosen.

A trained tech works flat-rate not clock time and is not paid to break one down unless for some reason it can be done beating the clock.

 

[Ford Freak]

Here is a video of a guy removing his transmission out of his 54 that may be helpful. Similar setup to 55-56.https://youtu.be/xsrCiz07GyM?is=qKkHhqoShHDS2RgT[/QUOTE

Yes, it was helpful in that it confirms what I was having a hard time believing: it has to go back, then down in the front to get it out. Well, seeing is believing! Talk about a bad design!
I had thought about making that thin crossmember removable in the middle also. Why couldn't Henry have done that? I believe that they installed the motor & trans as a unit back in the day. A lift, & a ****** jack would have made it much easier to get the trans out of this wagon. Neither of which I have access to. My next project will be to make the center of that crossmember removable. Thanks to all! F F

 

[Ford Freak]

GO TO-

PG 126

b. REMOVAL

(1) CONVENTIONAL CAR

... and there will be a brief description.

You didn't mention the drive-line upgrade. A SLEEPER or runnin' shine on the weekends?

It's really neither one. Just an "old school" hot rod w/a few upgrades. Something you probably would have seen in a high school parking lot in the mid sixties.

 

[KULTULZ]

It's really neither one. Just an "old school" hot rod w/a few upgrades.

Something you probably would have seen in a high school parking lot in the mid sixties.

My mind is still in the MUSCLE CAR ERA (1964-1973).

But the truth was, the car wasn't as expensive as the insurance in those days if you were single. So the trick was to find an older FORD and pump it up to run with the rich guys.

 

[dmsfrr]

Yes, it was helpful in that it confirms what I was having a hard time believing: it has to go back, then down in the front to get it out. Well, seeing is believing! Talk about a bad design!
I had thought about making that thin crossmember removable in the middle also. Why couldn't Henry have done that? I believe that they installed the motor & trans as a unit back in the day. A lift, & a ****** jack would have made it much easier to get the trans out of this wagon. Neither of which I have access to. My next project will be to make the center of that crossmember removable. Thanks to all! F F

Back in the day, life expectancy of an average 50's car was about 10 years. Outright replacing or future updating of a drivetrain likely wasn't that high on the manufacturers list of worries.

There are assembly line pictures from back then showing an assembled chassis with its complete drivetrain moving down the line having the body lowered onto it.
If the lifetime of a transmission in normal use was at least equal to the life of the rest of the vehicle, having that transmission sandwiched between the two may not have been an overwhelming concern to the manufacturer.

In some cases it's possible to disassemble the transmission in place to remove it. But a clean reassembly overhead in tight spaces on a car with some amount of road dirt on it could easily be difficult at best.
These days the usual procedure is often removing the engine and automatic transmission together, or remove the engine first. Manual transmissions are slightly easier.
.

 

[KULTULZ]

I had thought about making that thin crossmember removable in the middle also. Why couldn't Henry have done that? ...

Two reasons, the first being the 1954-1956 frame was a weak design and not corrected until the 1957 model run. The 2nd was $$$.

My next project will be to make the center of that crossmember removable. ...

Alteration may allow the frame rails to move/twist. This also was the need for the engine front steady rest as to hold everything somewhat square.

PREVIOUS THREAD -

https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthre...=Frame+Reinforcing?+1955+Victoria#post1095482​

 

[Ford Freak]

That crossmember that the ex. pipes go through is quite thin steel. When i finish w/my removable center piece it will actually be stronger, as I will be using 3/16th's steel plates to bolt it back in. My ****** is ok now, but I am always thinking/planning ahead & prepping for the future. (I got my booze for New Year's Eve the other day)lol. That usually works out good for me, but once in a while not so good!

 

[KULTULZ]

-FYI-

THUNDERBIRD HAD THE SAME PROBLEM

"All 1956 Thunderbirds until mid-February 1956 had a metal strap approx. 1/2 inch thick welded to the bottom of the frame for additional strength. The last known 1956 model with this reinforcement was built the 19th of Feb. 1956; after that all 1956 models had a beefed-up X- member. This information is covered in the Restoration Manual on pages 210 and 211, I encourage all CTCI members to obtain the Restoration Manual for general information even though they may not be fully restoring their Thunderbird"

SOURCE - https://www.tbirdforum.com/threads/56-tbird-chassis.135/

 

[rotorwrench]

Modifications/alterations can also lead to problems like this. The smaller 351C of the 335 family is a good runner when the higher performance parts were on it. The 2V carb made it a good reliable car engine if driven more for daily transportation. If beefed up in horse power then it starts to lose some of it's reliability. The 1970+ C4 is a good transmission and it was beefed up during those years after the 1970 upgrade. It can take some horse power but not quite what the C6 could handle. Drive the car normally and it should last a good long time with normal C4 service intervals. It wouldn't hurt to modify that rear K frame cross member as long as it's as strong or stronger than it was. You may never need to unless you like to put the foot into it more than average.

The earlier C4s weren't quite as strong as the later upgrade. The small center shaft was beefed up and there were a few other good changes. You can tell the later ones by the mushroom cap vent on the top rear of the main case. The early ones can be beefed up to match the later ones. I won't get into the later C5s. Some folks go for the AOD to get the 4th gear.

 

[Ford Freak]

KULTULZ - Yes, I had read that the early TB's had same problem. Thanks for the link!

rotorwrench - The car came to me w/a slightly bigger cam, & Edelbrock 4v manifold. It also had a 750 Holley (way too big!) & a Mallory distributor w/no vacuum advance. I put a new Holley 600 on & a new Pertronix distributor w/adjustable vacuum advance. I put one in my 289 Falcon Sprint 15 yrs. ago & never looked back. With duals & Smithy's, it sounds great. Not too loud, just right. At age 71, I don't need a lot of racket anymore, & my going fast days are pretty much over! Besides, with the cost of things today, I just can't afford to be breaking stuff. My '56 is just a cruiser that sounds good. Thanks for the info! F F

 

[Gene F]

I have heard that with an FE engine (351, or 390) that the C-6 will slide right in. Not even any floor modifications. I think I read that on here from someone that did the job in their driveway on a 1957 Ford.

Ya know, on the baby birds the trans comes out the hood with the engine attached, not from the bottom.

 

[rotorwrench]

The C6 is bigger around and a bit longer but not by a lot. The Bell has to be for an FE since it's kind of unique on most of them. I'm sure it was just a misprint on the 351 in relation to the FE. They were 352 engines. The 351 was limited to the Windsor type and the two 335 series types with one being the 351M with the taller deck than the 351C. They were pretty much the same engine other than the deck and pistons. The 351M heads were sort of detuned as well. More pickup trucks had them than cars.

The AOD is more comparable to the C6 due to the size. It's not as strong as a C6 but I'd rather have the AOD for road cruising. The C4 will work just fine for normal driving and around town.

Other factors that impede high performance is the Ford rear axle. The 9" didn't come out till 1957 but some folks swap the old Ford for a later 9" if they are going to romp around on it.

 

[Ford Freak]

My'56 came with a !957 9" in it. One of the few good things the former owner(s) did right! '57 is the only 9" that has the round back. Street rodder's love 'em. Very hard to find these days. The '57, '58, & '59 are the same width as the original rear's that came in '55/'56 passenger cars. The spring perches are in the same place, making it a direct bolt-in. There was also small bearing & big bearing versions. The Ranchero's & wagons had the big one.
Every 351C 4V engine equipped Mustang & Torino that I ever had (6) had a C6 behind it 20 yrs. ago when I was drag racing, I had one C4 that I had beefed up to handle 600 hp!

 

[KULTULZ]

- auto trans parasitic hp loss by model -


ford fmx - 25hp

ford c4 - 28hp

ford c6 - 55/60hp

power-glide - 18hp

th-350 - 36hp

th-400 - 44hp

727 - 45hp​