54 Monterey Distributor and Carb upgrade
- Thread starter gtmomerc
- Start date
dmsfrr
Well-known member
Holley List # 1273 was used in '57 on the Birds. I think the cfm rating is approx 400, it has vacuum secondaries.
How close to 'period correct' do you want to be?
Most any of the 'new' smaller cfm Holley's are fine.
You will need an adapter plate to install the new carb. The bolt pattern changed in '57 and is larger.
How close to 'period correct' do you want to be?
Most any of the 'new' smaller cfm Holley's are fine.
You will need an adapter plate to install the new carb. The bolt pattern changed in '57 and is larger.
Attachments
Last edited:
gtmomerc
Junior Member
Beautiful pix.... thanksfor the reply. I'm really concerned about driveability at this point. I'll keep the original parts of course but the engine doesn't smoke or leak and the trans works perfect but the carb is leaking and the distributor is missing the vacuum advance and seems to have some play. Can I get the carb adapter from Speedway? Then what would be the best carb for the later model distributor? Do I need anything else other than the distributor, oil pump and carb? The oil pump looks pretty straight forward to change but are there any gotcha's that I need to know about? I bought the car at an estate sale here in Pensacola. The car was liberated from GTMO in the 60's by the second owner. I'm the third. No rust, mostly original paint and I think I'm going to keep it that way for awhile. I like the patina....thanks again!!
Just a question but have you thought of sending in the original parts to have them rebuilt? There are some people on the barn that seem to do amazing work with carbs and distributors. When you start with new parts you may need to adapt several things. The older cars ran pretty good in the day. Sorry first part was question and second part was JMO.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
You're welcome.
There are a couple gotcha's... depending on whether or not the ('54 256) engine is 'early' or 'late'. There was a mid-year change at some point. I was told the one in photo 3 is the 'late' version.
Most of the following is based only on very fleeting ownership of a disguised '54 256 long-block that I sold asap.
The early versions may have used a flat & slot (tang) oil pump drive with 13 teeth on the driven gear. (photo 1)
The later versions have a hex drive and a 14 tooth gear. (photo 4) They may or may not use a different oil pump.
Not sure where to find the carb adapter (I've never looked for one) but it should be easy to find.
You'll also need to consider a replacement air cleaner. The top of a newer carb is not the same shape as the teapot you have.
If you thought of changing the intake manifold... the intake ports at the head may not be the same size and a '55+ intake manif won't seal to the '54 heads. (photo 2)
Rebuilding what you have is still a good option as 5851a mentioned.
Attachments
Last edited:
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
Here's your carb adapter:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Holl...B-4-Barrel-Carburetor-Adapter-Plate,5551.html
Jegs and Summit have 'em, too. I also suggest inserting a phenolic spacer (not the open style) between the carb and adapter. It reduces the propensity to vapor lock and improves throttle response.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Holl...B-4-Barrel-Carburetor-Adapter-Plate,5551.html
Jegs and Summit have 'em, too. I also suggest inserting a phenolic spacer (not the open style) between the carb and adapter. It reduces the propensity to vapor lock and improves throttle response.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
Yes, it is a good idea, and less mix & match parts headaches too.
paul2748
Well-known member
Here's the Holley 390. Sit down before looking at the price.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street_warrior/parts/0-8007
I agree with Scicala
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street_warrior/parts/0-8007
I agree with Scicala
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
OUCH! I've got a 390 needing a rebuild sitting on a shelf . Maybe I'll peddle it...
You know, I've had Holley carbs # 1273, 8005, and 4548 rebuilt and for sale at $250 each for many years. All 3 of them are specific Ford carbs. "Too much money" What? Are you kidding me? I gave up, and stripped the 1273 and the 4548 for parts. I am going to strip the 8005 as well as soon as I have a chance. Who am I saving this stuff for anyway? They are worth more than $250 in parts to me anyway.
By the way, that Speedway adapter is junk. I have two of them. It's a thin 1/2 in thick diecast piece made in china. Trust me, you will be disappointed. You can buy good ones, 1 inch thick, that you can thread studs into, but as far as I know, they are no longer made. I paid $50 each for a pair of used ones for our Edelbrock 257 intake project.
By the way, that Speedway adapter is junk. I have two of them. It's a thin 1/2 in thick diecast piece made in china. Trust me, you will be disappointed. You can buy good ones, 1 inch thick, that you can thread studs into, but as far as I know, they are no longer made. I paid $50 each for a pair of used ones for our Edelbrock 257 intake project.
Last edited:
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
Yeah, I had to return one to Speedway because it was warped out of the box. The 2nd one was fine.
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
Just my opinion, but I like the idea of just rebuilding the carb. Sal could do it and that problem would be solved. As far as the distributor shaft slop, you could ask Bubba (bubbas ignition) if he could put a new shaft bushing or if he knows who could. But I would NOT get a rebuild from an auto parts store because their rebuilders (probably Cardone) seem to be messing them up.
Lastly, the V8 load-o-matic vacuum can is no longer offered by any of the resto parts suppliers. Maybe e-pay?
Lastly, the V8 load-o-matic vacuum can is no longer offered by any of the resto parts suppliers. Maybe e-pay?