54 Crestline disc brakes, again

If Raybestos, Mc36248 (15/16 bore, 68 fairlane disk/drum)
Leed valve: PCV-B


I'm very much aware of Raybestos quality, usually that is all I use, but I thought I read above that you questioned Raybestos, My bad...


Frank
 

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I just received the Wilwood kit from Summit yesterday. I unpacked it and checked for missing parts and any damage that may have occurred from shipping. All is good. Parts seem to be well made and kit is very complete. I bought from Summit, since the shipping was free. I'll try to post photos as the conversion progresses, but with Hershey coming up, I may not get to this until after the show. Again, thanks for all the advice...


Frank
 
Well, back again. Now that the car show circuit is about done and the leaves have been raked and thrown away, I started the brake job today. First hiccup is the push rod to the back of the master cylinder. See photo. The distance from the firewall surface of the master cylinder piston is the same on both the old and new MC, so there is no room for the replacement bullet that I ordered. The business end of the pushrod looks like there should be something on the end, like a rubber bumper, but the Ford shop manual shows nothing. Does the rod just lay there or is something missing?


Frank
 

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Did you but a new MC? Is a new push-rod included?

This is the adapter that goes on the oem push-rod end (the stimulating ridges holds it on). Length must be measure including the adapter/cap.

I can't remember, is it going to be MANUAL or POWER?
 

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New MC was purchased but not with a new push rod. Going with a manual brake set-up. I'll have to look for the adapter, none was on the rod when it was removed...


Frank
 
OK, first report: The kit from Wilwood went on without a hitch. The calipers appear to be 4 piston type and the bolts supplied were a bit too long, so I used the old ones and they fit fine. I'm not in love with the proportioning valve I chose because the rear metering knob and the brake light switch are so close together there is hardly room to put a wrench on the fitting between them. My cat learned some new curse words...


The new MC is from Leed, since that was the only one I could find with a 15/16 piston and left hand ports. Anyway, rear brakes have be adjusted up and all have been bled, and except for a loose fitting at the junction block, all seems to be working. The main issue is the amount of brake pedal travel to actually start applying pressure to the brakes. The pedal free play is set at 1/4" per the Ford manual, but there seems to be too great a distance before the brakes really start to stop the car. I measured the distance from the rear of the MC to the piston and it matches the original MC that was removed. The pedal is almost to the floor by the time the car stops. I tried to install the pedal shaft bullet supplied by Leed, but there is not enough room to install the rod. I hope I'm missing something obvious...


Frank
 
emf said:
I measured the distance from the rear of the MC to the piston and it matches the original MC that was removed.
Click to expand...

Do you mean you measured how far the rod goes into the MC piston bore? I recently went through a puzzle of why my pedal went so far before I had brakes. Turns out the rebuild MC had the wrong piston in it which had a deeper bore.
 
No, I measured the static distance to the piston and it was the same as my removed MC. How does one specify the depth of the bore?


Frank
 
Did you ask if there is an internal rear PRESSURE RESIDUAL VALVE in the MC and are the rear drums adjusted correctly?

THANX! for the feedback on their PPV.
 
Rear drums adjusted and seem to be good. I spoke with tech support at Wilwood and they suggested that with a dual circuit MC, there was no need to remove any rear pressure residual valve. In fact, they recommended leaving it in place. I'm going to talk to someone at Summit today...


Frank
 
emf said:
Rear drums adjusted and seem to be good. I spoke with tech support at Wilwood and they suggested that with a dual circuit MC, there was no need to remove any rear pressure residual valve. In fact, they recommended leaving it in place. I'm going to talk to someone at Summit today...

Frank
Click to expand...

That was not what I asked. Yes, the RPV is to be left in a DISC/DRUM MC that is so equipped. What I asked is if the MC you bought has an RPV in the rear circuit.

A DISC/DRUM MC has to have that or at the least wheel cylinder cup ex-panders.

Did you source the MC from SUMMIT?

Can you describe how you adjusted the rear drum brakes?
 
Sorry, I mis-understood. Yes, the rear circuit has an RPV. I just got back from a test drive and now, all is well. I spoke to the tech support at Leed Brakes and they informed me that I bled the disc calipers incorrectly. Wilwood does not describe the process they prefer to bleed the calipers. Seeing 4 bleeder valves on the caliper, I made the assumption that all 4 chambers needed to be bled. WRONG!! The Leed tech guy said that Wilwood prefers only to top two bleeders should be used, starting with the outboard bleeder. I followed Leed's advice and BINGO the pedal came up to where I expected it to be. After making a few adjustments on the proportioning valve, I think I have success. Thanks to all who helped me...


Frank


By the way, Wilwood supplies four 1/4" spacers for the wheels, just in case (two for each side). With my car, none were needed, as there is no drag whatsoever. I did place one spacer per side just in case, but they are not needed.
 
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