52 V-8 Valve guide question.

yes, just did that to a 39 3/4 ton truck, took out the engine side panels to make it easier

I have the heads off had what I thought was 11 stuck valves. Freed all but 1 is a broken valve spring. Its in a COE. I am going to remove the intake and that should give me all the access I need correct?
 
I have the heads off had what I thought was 11 stuck valves. Freed all but 1 is a broken valve spring. Its in a COE. I am going to remove the intake and that should give me all the access I need correct?

You'll need to pull the one head to pull out the old, put in the new spring.

Karl
 
You might want to fix them ALL the correct way now or wind up doing it later, if you plan to keep the ride for a while!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. At some point in the future some valves will definitely "hang" again, better to "head-it-all-off" now while you're inside there!
 
If it's been in there many years, it may be tough to get out but it can be done. there are a lot of threads on this forum about the different tools used to make the job easier.
 
Have replaced a broken spring without removing the guide.
The only 'special' tool used was a 'C' style compressor to remove and install the keepers etc.
 
You'll need a good quality flathead valve bar at the very least - it is used to pull the valve guide down - such that you can get the horseshoe clip off of it . . . such that it can then be pulled out the top. There are other tools that are used if you can't easily get the guide out - along with a host of medieval methods that many of us have employed at times. If the guide is really stuck, then sometimes I break the head off the valve (or cut the valve stem with bolt cutters) - such that I can drive the guide down from above. If you're not worried about "saving the parts" - the medieval methods sometimes are the ones necessary!
 
thanks all. Where is a good place to get parts such as the metal radiator hoses that run from the top of the radiator to the thermostat housings?
 
So after read all the informative replies and I sincerely mean that. I went over to the truck and took an awl stuck it in the horse shoe clip and it came right out. Took a flathead screw driver pushed up on valve and it came right out. Were can I get a new one?
 
So after read all the informative replies and I sincerely mean that. I went over to the truck and took an awl stuck it in the horse shoe clip and it came right out. Took a flathead screw driver pushed up on valve and it came right out. Were can I get a new one?
Don't know if it will work for you but I was able to locate a valve and spring and adjustable tappet from one of the several engine re-builders in my area.
 
If you could use some good used valve train parts, I have a bunch you can have. PM me if interested. It's probably obvious, but if there is no problem with the original lifter (push rod), I strongly suggest keeping it with it's original cam lobe.

Speedway motor, among others has the chrome or stainless radiator hose kits. They're pretty good with generic stuff like this. I'd check the product reviews before I placed an order, though.
 
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The metal pipe for the radiator is unique to the COE, the part number is 8RW-8290.
The conventional truck pipe is 8RT-8290, I don't know what the difference is.


Bob
 
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