V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Lower panel and two side pieces between fenders and radiator. They guide air THROUGH radiator rather than AROUND it. DD
51 Merc v/8 into 40 ford
- Thread starter dixiedelux
- Start date
Lower panel and two side pieces between fenders and radiator. They guide air THROUGH radiator rather than AROUND it. DD
There used to be an ad for a correspondence school for auto mechanics that ran for years that featured a pic of a '40 engine bay with a highly chromed 8BA. It used copper plumbing 90s into the top of the rad tank that fit the stock 8BA hoses and stock '53 fan. I also used the 8RT truck pumps and pressed the narrow sheaves on when I did mine back in '67, worked good and cooled no problems. A narrow guard across the top of the rad tank cleared the fan and kept my fingers at the right length. ..B.
Charlie ny
BANNED
Guys,
I will forward some photos of the pulley I modified to 19 for posting. Some
non tricky lathe work required. The depth of my computer skills is what you are
seeing now.
Charlie ny
I will forward some photos of the pulley I modified to 19 for posting. Some
non tricky lathe work required. The depth of my computer skills is what you are
seeing now.
Charlie ny
dixiedelux
Member
Thanks Coopman,Lower panel and two side pieces between fenders and radiator. They guide air THROUGH radiator rather than AROUND it. DD
Recently, I discovered new in a Drake box the above described side panels. I could not figure what they were used for; I thought I had orderd a wrong part or a order was shipped wrong. It must have been a sale item and I thought I might need it sometime, and unbeknownst to me, I do!
Here's an old thread to look over for crank-driven fan options.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70891
Lonnie
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70891
Lonnie
dixiedelux
Member
Lonnie,
Thanks for the effort of accessing the archives. Wow-there is some pretty intense info in the thread!
Thanks for the effort of accessing the archives. Wow-there is some pretty intense info in the thread!
fortyfords
Senior Member
I put a 51 8rt truck engine in my 40, I used the original fender support but cut the cross piece off and the crank pulley cleared good and I never had problems with the fenders or rattling. I used the upper fan pulley setup to put the fan in the upper radiator area and I didn't have any problems with clearing the hoses. I also installed a pusher fan down low and in front of the radiator with a piece of flat aluminum above the fan to keep the air from going straight up instead of going through radiator. Rarely used the electric fan. I just used another hose section on the water outlets on the small neck of the head outlets, cheap and worked good. I like the Flathead Jack water outlet idea better. I also used the truck 10 inch clutch and pressure plate, I can't see much weight difference, the 15 extra horsepower of the truck engine was just perfect.
dixiedelux
Member
Thanks Fortyfords, I have been told Speedway now sells the larger thermostat housing.
19Fordy
Well-known member
Here's a little expansion of V8's earlier air deflector sheet metal photos as sold by BOB DRAKE. 01A-8434, 01A-8209, 91A-8104/5, 91A-8240.
https://www.bobdrake.com/Categories2.aspx?Id=40grillesheetmetal
The last two photos show home made pieces that block air from going up over the radiator and into the engine compartment. One piece fits in front of the radiator. The other into the hood. The goal is to direct as much fresh air into the radiator as possible and also evacuate as much hot air from the engine compartment as possible. Some folks use (non-stock) louvered inner fender panels to help the hot air escape
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JSeery
Member Emeritus
I can't see much weight difference, the 15 extra horsepower of the truck engine was just perfect.[/QUOTE]
The weight difference (by itself) is not really the issue, it is the distance the weight is from the centerline. It is an inertia issue, which is weight related, but it is the weight and distance. Weight near the centerline is not near the issue as weight at the edge of the flywheel or pressure plate and clutch. Depending on your driving requirements it may not be that big an issue for you, but for performance it makes a difference.
The weight difference (by itself) is not really the issue, it is the distance the weight is from the centerline. It is an inertia issue, which is weight related, but it is the weight and distance. Weight near the centerline is not near the issue as weight at the edge of the flywheel or pressure plate and clutch. Depending on your driving requirements it may not be that big an issue for you, but for performance it makes a difference.
dixiedelux
Member
Great Help again, Fordy! I plan to use the homemade piece in front of radiator. It is used a lot, isn't it? The panel inside the nose of the hood, I have yet to see. I have the new I outer grill panels #91A-8104/5. I have new inner fender panels. I plan to have my hood louvered. I suppose it would be prudent to drop the panels off with the hood. the problem with that is all of the new Drake paint will have to be removed and I am not sure there is much flat area to louver. Is there an aftermarket vendor for the 40 inner fender panels? How about Mr. 40?
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V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
The panel inside the nose of the hood, I have yet to see. QUOTE]
That hood panel nose piece blocks HOT air that didn't escape the engine compartment from being forced back over the top of the radiator and down, so as NOT to be sucked back through the radiator.........already HOT. Good piece to install. DD
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
I'd use the flywheel & Pressure plat that comes with the merc. and buy a new 10" disk that fit's the 40 trans. This is probably the most commom swap ever made. You can inprove the performance of the engine by replacing the heads with EAB heads and installing a 2GC carb with one of Bubbas distributrs. This will reall wake up that ol merc.
fortyfords
Senior Member
The weight difference (by itself) is not really the issue, it is the distance the weight is from the centerline. It is an inertia issue, which is weight related, but it is the weight and distance. Weight near the centerline is not near the issue as weight at the edge of the flywheel or pressure plate and clutch. Depending on your driving requirements it may not be that big an issue for you, but for performance it makes a difference.[/QUOTE]
JSeery, I see your point, I am not much of a performance guy but I like a little more power for cruising and the engine swap was well worth the trouble for the results. The truck engine weighed a lot more than the 85 hp engine that I had to install another long leaf spring in the front to keep the car from bottoming out over rough bumps. Thanks for your input.
dixiedelux
Member
Yes Sir! Your good explanation makes me aware that that piece would be benificial! Thanks Again!The panel inside the nose of the hood, I have yet to see. QUOTE]
That hood panel nose piece blocks HOT air that didn't escape the engine compartment from being forced back over the top of the radiator and down, so as NOT to be sucked back through the radiator.........already HOT. Good piece to install. DD
dixiedelux
Member
Hi Ron,
I guess the Merc is running a ford manifold and a stromberg. I ask for the Merc manifold in the deal. I was thinking about the rochester right off the bat. Why would the EAB heads be better than the Merc's? From what do they come off? Why would the Bubba unit be better than me installing a petronix unit in the stock Merc dizzy?
Ol' Richard
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
The EAB heads have a higher CR, and the stock distributor is worthless and can't be used with anyother carb than the original. Running a cinverted GM unit will give a much better Ignition system. Not just my idea, allot of guys do this.
Now depending on when the 51Merc engine was made, it probably already has the right oil man and Bell housing. Most of these had a B&B pressure plate and the right disk, so it's a bolt in.
Now depending on when the 51Merc engine was made, it probably already has the right oil man and Bell housing. Most of these had a B&B pressure plate and the right disk, so it's a bolt in.
Charlie ny
BANNED
Dixie,
I'm back to the fan question.........I've had no luck transferring the photos
of my reworked pulley and hub.....then I read BINXs post and how he did the job....
with photos too. If you haven't read his post yet be sure to find it. His solution is
very straight forward and effective. I did get the same results only with lots more
work. I do recommend the WALKER shroud. I'm using the original Ford split core
radiator, 5 blade fan, and the shroud.
Charlie ny
I'm back to the fan question.........I've had no luck transferring the photos
of my reworked pulley and hub.....then I read BINXs post and how he did the job....
with photos too. If you haven't read his post yet be sure to find it. His solution is
very straight forward and effective. I did get the same results only with lots more
work. I do recommend the WALKER shroud. I'm using the original Ford split core
radiator, 5 blade fan, and the shroud.
Charlie ny
19Fordy
Well-known member
PLEASE do not punch louvres in your 1940 Ford hood as it really takes away from the beauty of the hood, in my opinion. Instead, buy louvered inner fender panels. http://www.mr40s.com/mr.-40-s-stuff.html However, I see there are no "ribs' stamped into the louvered panels. This might cause a vibration and subsequent cracks in the sheet metal. Have you thought about fabricating some very subtle air scoops into the OEM fender panels? I bet it could be tastefully done.
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