‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
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fortyfords
Senior Member
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
The 51 8RT fit in my 40 sedan real easy so I would sure think that it would fit the 47 real easy also, not the exact answer you were looking for, sorry
The 51 8RT fit in my 40 sedan real easy so I would sure think that it would fit the 47 real easy also, not the exact answer you were looking for, sorry
George/Maine
Well-known member
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
I used a 53 8rt in my 47. The oil pan hit drag link so I had to bend the pitman arm down in 2 spots. I used I think was a 51 mercury fan and removed the rivets and used bolted alum fan on. The down draft tube needed some bending. Out of business used Reds headers. Still have gen but 12 volt. Works good.
I used a 53 8rt in my 47. The oil pan hit drag link so I had to bend the pitman arm down in 2 spots. I used I think was a 51 mercury fan and removed the rivets and used bolted alum fan on. The down draft tube needed some bending. Out of business used Reds headers. Still have gen but 12 volt. Works good.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
Truck oil pans are deeper than the 49 thru 51 Mercury oil pan but both are rear sump. The 1953 F100 had a long sump oil pan so it likely won't work so well. All the 8BA car pans are center sump and don't work well. With pans, you have to match starter plates with the half bell housing. Half bell housings need a clutch & flywheel combo to work with early cars. A lot of F1 engines had 10-inch Long types that will work. The 11-inch Long type will also work well for trucks. The 49 thru early 51 Mercury Borg & Beck clutch will also work well. Clutch & bell housing changed for late 1951 Mercury on thru 1953 so they are all different.
Truck oil pans are deeper than the 49 thru 51 Mercury oil pan but both are rear sump. The 1953 F100 had a long sump oil pan so it likely won't work so well. All the 8BA car pans are center sump and don't work well. With pans, you have to match starter plates with the half bell housing. Half bell housings need a clutch & flywheel combo to work with early cars. A lot of F1 engines had 10-inch Long types that will work. The 11-inch Long type will also work well for trucks. The 49 thru early 51 Mercury Borg & Beck clutch will also work well. Clutch & bell housing changed for late 1951 Mercury on thru 1953 so they are all different.
49fordv8f4
Senior Member
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
I installed a 8BA engine with 8RT water pumps and oil pan in my '47 Fordor years ago. I didn't have any clearance issues with the pan, everything fit like it belonged in there. My pan would have been from a '48-'52 truck, '53 may be different.
Mark
I installed a 8BA engine with 8RT water pumps and oil pan in my '47 Fordor years ago. I didn't have any clearance issues with the pan, everything fit like it belonged in there. My pan would have been from a '48-'52 truck, '53 may be different.
Mark
big job
Well-known member
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
Now I am confused???? As I wrote before I slid a fresh EAB in my 46 while
I am rebuilding my 59A. The EAB was for a 49 F3. it has a truck pan with
the clean out cover. Also has a truck 11" clutch which I feel no difference in
pedal pressure. So whats so different between a 46 thru 1948? I have all
kinds of room there. Took more time to put the radiator and hood back on. and I may have 10+ inches there,
rear sump pan from any F1 to F6 late 48 up 53 ?? not sure never had a 53 F1
Now I am confused???? As I wrote before I slid a fresh EAB in my 46 while
I am rebuilding my 59A. The EAB was for a 49 F3. it has a truck pan with
the clean out cover. Also has a truck 11" clutch which I feel no difference in
pedal pressure. So whats so different between a 46 thru 1948? I have all
kinds of room there. Took more time to put the radiator and hood back on. and I may have 10+ inches there,
rear sump pan from any F1 to F6 late 48 up 53 ?? not sure never had a 53 F1
JSeery
Member Emeritus
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
To address the 11 inch clutch issue, some see a big difference in "pedal pressure", but the real issue is performance. The 11 inch is going to slow down acceleration. If that is not a concern, then it will work fine. On the other hand, if you ARE interested in acceleration, then the 11 inch is not the way to go. A 10 inch is better and a 9 inch better yet.
To address the 11 inch clutch issue, some see a big difference in "pedal pressure", but the real issue is performance. The 11 inch is going to slow down acceleration. If that is not a concern, then it will work fine. On the other hand, if you ARE interested in acceleration, then the 11 inch is not the way to go. A 10 inch is better and a 9 inch better yet.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
The F100 came out in 53 but had different front mounting and oil pan on the V8 applications. Larger 100 series trucks may have still had the earlier type pan but I'm not very well versed on the larger early 100 series trucks. The 215 OHV 6 was also available so there may have been a lot of those in the early F100 pickups too.
The 8RT truck pans are deeper by a bit but it is the shape at the front that may or may not cause clearance issues in earlier vehicles. It's in one of those "try it first" categories before it is discounted to opt for a Mercury pan. The 8CM pan is closer to the 59 & earlier series pans in shape and profile but they are only similar. A person has to deal with the different road draft tubes too unless a PVC system is installed.
The 11-inch Long type clutch is a heavy dam thing. As was already mentioned, it takes more torque to get the inertia up on them than say a 9 or 10-inch Long type clutch. The pedal pressure is really not all that much of an issue. The lighter clutches will spin up faster and have higher rpm capability for sure and they hold just fine on lighter vehicles.
The F100 came out in 53 but had different front mounting and oil pan on the V8 applications. Larger 100 series trucks may have still had the earlier type pan but I'm not very well versed on the larger early 100 series trucks. The 215 OHV 6 was also available so there may have been a lot of those in the early F100 pickups too.
The 8RT truck pans are deeper by a bit but it is the shape at the front that may or may not cause clearance issues in earlier vehicles. It's in one of those "try it first" categories before it is discounted to opt for a Mercury pan. The 8CM pan is closer to the 59 & earlier series pans in shape and profile but they are only similar. A person has to deal with the different road draft tubes too unless a PVC system is installed.
The 11-inch Long type clutch is a heavy dam thing. As was already mentioned, it takes more torque to get the inertia up on them than say a 9 or 10-inch Long type clutch. The pedal pressure is really not all that much of an issue. The lighter clutches will spin up faster and have higher rpm capability for sure and they hold just fine on lighter vehicles.
Glenn Thoreson
Senior Member
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
I installed a '53 Mercury engine in my '42 tudor and had clearance problems with the tie rod rubbing on the 8RT oil pan I used. Solution: used a '37 pitman arm. Good to go.
If the tie rod touches the oil pan it's a very dangerous situation. When you hit a dip in the road, the axle & tie rod goes up and the frame/engine goes down, putting pressure on the pan and tie rod. That will hinder the ability to steer the car and could break something or cause serious damage. Possibly to the driver, too.
I installed a '53 Mercury engine in my '42 tudor and had clearance problems with the tie rod rubbing on the 8RT oil pan I used. Solution: used a '37 pitman arm. Good to go.
If the tie rod touches the oil pan it's a very dangerous situation. When you hit a dip in the road, the axle & tie rod goes up and the frame/engine goes down, putting pressure on the pan and tie rod. That will hinder the ability to steer the car and could break something or cause serious damage. Possibly to the driver, too.
Gezer
Member
Re: ‘51 8RT in ‘47 coupe
FYI
I have a 51 EAB in my 40 Sedan. I bought it that way. Looked real good.
I went to pull the pan to change the gasket and the pan would not drop out. It would wedge between the front cross member and the flywheel. Check it before you bolt it in or you will at some time in the future be taking the complete engine out to change a gasket or crank packing.
FYI
I have a 51 EAB in my 40 Sedan. I bought it that way. Looked real good.
I went to pull the pan to change the gasket and the pan would not drop out. It would wedge between the front cross member and the flywheel. Check it before you bolt it in or you will at some time in the future be taking the complete engine out to change a gasket or crank packing.