$50 for an ignition switch?,never thought I'd live to....

Terry NJ

Terry NJ

Well-known member
Well I bought the damn thing! It is a nice looking unit. It's a Nu-Rex but they won't put their name on it and NO INSTRUCTIONS!!!! So what do you do with it? How do you get the old one out? I see the threaded "Plate" that backs up to the instrument panel and locks with 4 Radially threaded holes, 3 machine screws and 1 allen screw. Same thing on old switch. But removing the screws on the old one does nothing. Gimme some help here . What do I do?
Terry
 
Dynamite, works on anything that is stuck.
Sorry could not resist, WD 40, penetrating oil and some patience will work.
 
No ,No, Guys! The screws aren't tight! That's not the problem. The problem is, like where do you go once the screws are loose????? What does the switch bank against to hold while I screw the "Plate" up snug against what???? I've never had one of these apart(out of the instrument panel) before. I don't know whats next.It's pretty tight in there, Should I disconnect the speedo? Drat!!! Don'tcha hate it when you can't figure it out.
Terry
 
The back of the panel is slotted where the screws go into the switch,, loosen the screws and twist the switch out...
 
Take the screws out except the one you can't get to and then turn the switch
a little and pull it out of the instrument panel.

Bob
 

Attachments

  • $_41.jpg
    $_41.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 71
If the speedometer cable is tight and preventing you from moving the panel out, just disconnect it, that should give you a little more wiggle room. Once you get there, do like Mitch says, just loosen the 3 screws around the "cup", twist the switch and it should come right out of the panel.
 
The Allen wrench on the new switch is fior adjusting the depth and for the key slot to be straight... When you get to that point of installing the new one screw it all the way away from the tank then tighten the Allen ...insulate the switch and tank with electrical tape or rubber fron a tire tube or it WILL ground out on the tank causing a no start or int issue
 
I think I've got it! I had forgotten that I had the panel from the T.S., all naked and free of encumbrances! All it took was just one look! Putting that top screw in looks like a bee-itch, unless you have little monkey fingers.
Terry
 
Put the two screws that go in the slotted holes first and leave them just loose
enough to get the switch in then install the screw in the round hole by the
speedometer last.

Bob
 
You think that's a bad job...try it on a modern car! I have learned to go on YouTube for most anything. Saves lots of frustration. There is a couple good ones on there right now. Go to YouTube and search: model a ignition switch replacement.
 
Check your new switch for continuity between the two terminals when switch is on. I just bought a New Rex switch (a new one) and it did not have continuity. Bratton's sent me another one (no charge including shipping) and it's ok.
 
I often said the same thing about a bottle of water. Who would pay a dollar for a bottle of water?? But droves of people do. And if you check the water is usually just coming from some tap somewhere:eek:
 
OOOO-K! Got her out! Wires, cables and all. So now how is it wired to the distributor? The only way I see to do it is to go into the body of the distributor and hook directly to the condenser, Is that how? Electrical poop! What a PITA! My fingers are too big for this! Oh and I checked the continuity and it was ok.
OH yes! I almost forgot! My apologies to the Nu-Rex company! They did give some directions after all. The paper looks like a gas receipt with some instructions written on it, mainly, don't let it short out against the gas tank. Nary a word about disassembly or reassembly or how to wire it .
Terry
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top