'50 F2 price?

AnthonyG said:
Other than the obvious ( suspension ) are they that much different than the F1's. I think they were only available with a long bed but F1 were available with the long bed. Assuming the chassis is heavier but is the cab / bed any different? Booked up a little on F1's but this came up and looked interesting. Guess I gotta go back to school?
Click to expand...

The differences between the F1 and the F2/3 are the bed length (F1 is 6.5" the F2/3 is 8'), springs, usually the ****** (F2/3 had 4 spd std and it was available for the F1), wheel bolt pattern (5 for the F1, 8 for the F2/3), front & rear fenders, brakes, running boards, and tailgate. The cabs, hoods, grilles, and engines were the same.

As for pricing, $6500 is the about top of the market for a driver. Beyond the price, the bigger question is your preference on trucks. The F2 is longer, with a stiffer ride, and has some parts that are harder to come by (brakes and sheetmetal mainly). The rear end gearing is usually lower for the F2/3 as well. The front fender openings are larger and can be tougher to get looking 'right' with modern tires. The brake drum size limits choices for alternative wheels.
 
Got a question on the title matching the truck as I was reading another post about non matching titles. Where do I look for the #'s on the F2 and is it the entire VN# on the title that should match?
 
The serial number (VINs showed up later) is shown on the glove box data plate, the firewall data plate, and on the top of the passenger side frame rail between the radiator and the engine block. The same number should be in all three places. There may also be some coding on the middle of the firewall below the cowl vent. That coding is different from the serial number.
 
Thx a bunch guys, feeling adequately prepared to "Haggle" with all the great info you guys have given me. Will be looking at it tomorrow morning.
 
Here is the FTE website link for the 48-51 F series..... lots of good info and a great group of guys to help.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum41/

My two cents, take a flashlight so you can inspect the body seams and areas where the fenders are bolted together. All of these areas over time seem to collect dirt, debris, and moisture which promotes rust. If improperly repaired in the past it will look good but may not last. Also a magnet to check for bondo or a good look from inside to see wrinkled body panels. .....maybe that was a nickels worth!

Hope you bring that good lookin F2 home.
 
Will be test driving it tomorrow. Don't want to make a bigger fool of my self than I have too, lol. Where is 1st and reverse on the crash box 4 speed? I will use it in the test to make sure it's good but have read it's a granny gear and you normally start out in 2nd?
 
They have a conventional 4-speed pattern but reverse is to the right. I think the synchronized 4-speeds shift up to the right and the non-synchro shift right & down if I remember correctly.
 
Woke up to snow cover and didn't feel like crawling laying around in the muck. Will try for Weds. Got another question. What is the 8 bolt pattern on it?
 
Anthony......I had a '49 F-2.....it was a great truck, but understand that a lot of the parts for sale on an F-1 are NOT inter-changable with the F-2. Brake Drums for one is a very tough item. Also...the front fenders are not the same as a F-1. Brakes were a real problem and I had to use all kinds of different Ford brakes for front and rear. Mine was in very nice condition and I got $ 6,800 for it. The guys say $ 5,000 grand and that just might be a fair price. Just make sure you look it all over before you buy it. There are many other items that will not fit from an F-1.

Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top