50 F1 pickup door latch broken

lamoson

Junior Member
Hey so, i went to open up the door from the inside and heard a snap. (high pitch metallic sound) now the door latch doesn't have any back pressure to hold the door shut. My guess is a spring somewhere on the mechanism. looked through the door panel but couldn't see anything broken. i also found a circlip inside the door. although im not sure that is part of the problem.

i think the springs i would need would be these ones.
attachment.jpg


not sure though which of the two types would be causing my problem.
any info is much appreciated thanks.
 
The ones without the coil are for the remote arm triangle, they keep the inside door handle in position. There are lots of door latch coil spring configurations, you won't know what you need until the latch is removed.
 
This is what the latch looks like. I'm sure it's the coil spring, the end that presses against the latch bolt (hidden) breaks off.
 

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Lamoson......

I had the same problem with my '49 F-1. It always happens to drivers door as its used the most. You have to take out the regulator and replace the spring. Not a big deal, but finding the spring is. Ask online here at swap meet area. You should have some luck. You can have a spring made but very expensive for a one off type deal.

Mke
 
Fomo......they may now a days but 7 years ago no one had any new. I found 2 of them from an old guy who had spare parts of an old truck. I hope someone makes them now.
 
Be careful when taking apart I heated the tabs up with the Blue Wrench(torch) and opened slightly to remove spring and replace.
 
I did a write up on this board about replacing the spring. When you know the trick, it is simple. I did not use heat. Scan the barn history to find the [piece.

Take your old spring out. They are color coded somewhat and seen to vary for no good reason. I have extra blue ones and I think black ones.

Found it. See below.
Good luck.
BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES!!!!!!
 
My passenger door latch spring has been safely replaced and installed.( Apparently all them womens trying to get aboard my peeekup wore out the latch spring.) We tried several methods including big hammers and alcohol. From Fordbarn (Torchie) came the successful process.
Answered my own question.
Put the bent endof the
spring in a vise and twisted the center bend with needle nose vice grips. Put as much tension on the spring
as you can to make it small in diameter.
Use a 2nd set of vice grips around the outside of the
spring
to hold it tightly coiled. Slip it in to place and undo parimiter vice grips and there it is.
Torchie.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...r+latch+spring

I grabbed the long end of the spring tightly in a bench vice. I Practiced several times on how to grip the spring properly with vice grips. Then wound the center of the spring as tight as I could with long strong needle nose pliers. The center space shrinks as the winding occurs. I then clamped the spring in the wound position with vice grips and laid the pair over the proper position on the door latch mechanism. The long spring push end was placed it in its proper position. The inside end of the spring was close to the slot it belonged in. A solid whack on a large drift and the spring jumped into place. The retaining tabs were then bent over into position. Note I wore a full face shield during this process having had stiches years ago doing this act with a tailgate spring. Happiness is a door that will stay shut. Many I should wire the door shut so no one will be yankin on the door...

thanks Torchie and all
Clem Clement
 
Wow. Didn't think any one ever read my post's LOL
Springs are available as I bought mine from that on line auction site that everyone complains about but still use's. I have also seen then in various restoration catalouges.
I did not heat anything when doing mine. I just spread the retainer ears enough to get the spring out. If it has snapped there won't be any pressure on the spring so no danger in removing it. I believed that I used needle nose vice grips when reinstalling to hold the spring coiled.
Torchie.
 
While you are mucking around with the mechanism, it would be worthwhile to look at the edge of the latching pieces. There is a poorly designed feature that relies on a pawl to ride on the edge of a mating part - which naturally wears. Was able to rebuild mine with some JB Weld and have been trouble free since. Might save you a disassemble / reassemble cycle.

DW
 
the culprit, i will order a new spring tonight. i believe this is the only one i need.
 

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