5 Speed Conversion

One definite advantage of the 5 speed is a synchro 1st gear. The Mitchel trans only has a 2-3 synchro because there is not enough room in the case. I had one and although that 2-3 synchro is fantastic I really wanted to be (and more importantly my wife) able to shift into 1st without coming to a complete stop.
 
I have a T5 installed in my 1931 RPU behind the original engine. I went a slightly different route but with about the same results. I used a T5 out of a mid 80s Jeep without the transfer case. This gives you the shortest possible T5 available. I did not want to cut my cross member so I moved it back 2.625". I used a bellhousing from Vintage Precision and an adaptor from Jeep to closed drive shaft from Kato King. This all combined to make the shortest possible setup. All in, including the bell housing, the clutch assembly, the Burtz flywheel, the Kato King adaptor and shifter, the Mitchell pinion puller and the Jeep T5 I spent about $2500.00, there will be other costs no matter which way you go. A full description of the procedure along with pictures can be found here on the HAMB
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...eed-transmission.1281128/page-2#post-14769385

Go to entry 36.

I love the T5, Installed one in my 1962 Cutlass behind the 215 V8, installed one in my 1962 Studebaker wagon behind the 259 V8, installed one in my 0930 Tudor behind a 300 Buick and now have one in my 1931 RPU.

Warren
 
Gene F said:
Pete, one of the guys in our club put in a S-10 trans, and he was on tour and stepped on it, and he heard his snap. He told me he likes his, but you gotta have that front wishbone re-enforced.

Maybe I'm just being "over kill", but I sure hate calling for a tow truck.
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I'm confused: How does installing an S10 trans affect the front wishbone? Any stress on the front axle/wishbone could only come during heavy braking (unless you hit a big pothole or bounce off a curb!).
 
40 Deluxe said:
I'm confused: How does installing an S10 trans affect the front wishbone? Any stress on the front axle/wishbone could only come during heavy braking (unless you hit a big pothole or bounce off a curb!).
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I would like an explanation as well. The only thing I can think of is frame flex?
 
40 Deluxe said:
I'm confused: How does installing an S10 trans affect the front wishbone? Any stress on the front axle/wishbone could only come during heavy braking (unless you hit a big pothole or bounce off a curb!).
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I think they meant rear radius rods,.
Most S10 conversions are open drive and the original rear radius rods are insufficient.
Some of the early "kits" had an upper 3rd link that was again insufficient, don't ask how I know.
At one time a torktube kit was available and it was very good.

John
 
wuga said:
I have a T5 installed in my 1931 RPU behind the original engine. I went a slightly different route but with about the same results. I used a T5 out of a mid 80s Jeep without the transfer case. This gives you the shortest possible T5 available. I did not want to cut my cross member so I moved it back 2.625". I used a bellhousing from Vintage Precision and an adaptor from Jeep to closed drive shaft from Kato King. This all combined to make the shortest possible setup. All in, including the bell housing, the clutch assembly, the Burtz flywheel, the Kato King adaptor and shifter, the Mitchell pinion puller and the Jeep T5 I spent about $2500.00, there will be other costs no matter which way you go. A full description of the procedure along with pictures can be found here on the HAMB
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...eed-transmission.1281128/page-2#post-14769385

Go to entry 36.

I love the T5, Installed one in my 1962 Cutlass behind the 215 V8, installed one in my 1962 Studebaker wagon behind the 259 V8, installed one in my 0930 Tudor behind a 300 Buick and now have one in my 1931 RPU.

Warren
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Warren, so in your scenario you had to source parts from different suppliers, and it was not a kit? The getting everything I need except that one plate is very desirable to me when I make major changes to a collector car...
 
I received my kit. I am waiting on my bell housing and will probably start next week. I am going to tackle rear end first. I have a new leaf spring and want to replace that when I pull the rear end.
I bought extra snout and bearing holder. Doing as much prep work as I can. Transmission mount bolted up.
 

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imtb said:
I received my kit. I am waiting on my bell housing and will probably start next week. I am going to tackle rear end first. I have a new leaf spring and want to replace that when I pull the rear end.
I bought extra snout and bearing holder. Doing as much prep work as I can. Transmission mount bolted up.
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Please let us know your progress along the way, and the end result (happiness too). If I were to buy another A I strongly would go this route
 
Here is a conversion for a model A/B block to a T5 transmission that doesn't cost anywhere near what most of them on the market do, BUT, you must be willing to do some fabrication with shop HAND power tools.
This is reprinted from an old thread.

Here is an adapter to get a T5 transmission to an A/B block that can be made with NO machine tools. (lathe, mill)
All you need is a sawzall, a 3/8 drill motor and some rotary files.
All you need is a magnet base indicator to align it with the engine.
This uses a stock Chev V8 aluminum bell housing or Lakewood scatter shield, a
hydraulic clutch slave cylinder, stock Chev clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch arm and a 12 lb CHEV aluminum flywheel.
The T5 bolts right on. You can either use a Crazydaddyo adapter to torque tube or run an open driveline with beefed up center mounted radius rods.
The steel bracket on the 2 inch plate mounts a Chev gear drive starter on the right side.

No, I don't have any more info about it other than what is here but I know of 2 guys that made them from nothing more than the shown pic.
 

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imtb said:
I received my kit. I am waiting on my bell housing and will probably start next week. I am going to tackle rear end first. I have a new leaf spring and want to replace that when I pull the rear end.
I bought extra snout and bearing holder. Doing as much prep work as I can. Transmission mount bolted up.
Click to expand...

A couple of things that helped me out during the install process.

1. Check your slip yoke and make sure there isn't a small vent hole at the back
just ahead of where the ujoint mounts. It's not needed and if left open the
slip yoke will leak when the car is parked facing uphill .
2. When installing the transmission take the input shaft adapter off of the 5
speed and slip it into the clutch disc then slide the trans into place . This will
give you an additional couple inches so you can get the transmission into
place.
3. Take two 3 or 4 inch long bolts of the size that hold the transmission to the
bellhousing (3/8" I believe) cut the heads off of them and grind the cut ends
round , screw them into the bellhousing and use them as guide pins to slide
the transmission into place. Just make sure the clutch fork is in the proper
location when installing the transmission.

Other than those things the install is pretty straight forward and I was able to complete the install by myself.

Pete
 
Good information I have 2 mitchells and 2 with high speed rear ends like both I live in flat country
 
Making some progress. Pulled rear end and fought pinion but followed the directions and got it out and adapter for the open drive line is installed. Drilled and tapped for the vent, also welded radius rods. I need to clean and paint, then install new spring and put the rear end back in.
 

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Those radius rods aren't strong enough to handle the clockwise and counterclockwise torque of the rear axle even after the seams have been welded. They will handle normal acceleration and braking, but in an emergency panic stop, DRIVER BE WARE.
 
AL in NY said:
Those radius rods aren't strong enough to handle the clockwise and counterclockwise torque of the rear axle even after the seams have been welded. They will handle normal acceleration and braking, but in an emergency panic stop, DRIVER BE WARE.
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Been 15 years and a few panic stops as well as tours in three states and no issues. Too, the engine put out 70 HP at the rear wheels. Note that the metal straps are welded on both sides of the radius rod seams. I’m well aware of what it takes to make an A go fast and stop quickly.
 
AL in NY said:
Those radius rods aren't strong enough to handle the clockwise and counterclockwise torque of the rear axle even after the seams have been welded. They will handle normal acceleration and braking, but in an emergency panic stop, DRIVER BE WARE.
Click to expand...

Yes agree the A radius rods alone are insufficient
By adding the web to top bottom or both helps but in addition you must reinforce the fork section

At one time one of the kit mfgrs offered replacement radius rods that were much stronger

I run a full fender coupe with a OHV setup and have broken the stock radius rods
The spring kept it all from coming apart but it only takes one experience to learn

J
 
Can you also modify, e.g., shorten, the torque tube so you don’t have to have an open drive shaft? I recall one of the kits included a shortened torque tube.

David Serrano
 
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