5 Main bearing Model A block

Derek Mitchell said:
I'm going to watch this one, very interesting stuff going on here.
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Somehow I missed this thread until just now. This will be interesting to watch, as well as Terry's engine.

I no longer get the Burtz engine updates since I've had to change my email due to a hacker. Each time I get hacked I loose all my emails and contacts.
 
MrTube said:
What about a crank from one of the 2liter turbo engines from GM or VW? I don't know the cost or alignment issues but I'd assume it can handle the power as they are producing 135hp per liter.
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The problem you run in to is the Model A engine is wide between 2and3 so the crank rod journals will not line up with the bore. I have one out of the chev 4 cylinder engine that was in the chev 2 . It would work if the journals would line up..

The engine you talked about, I have no knowledge about. I will check them out.

I was hopping Terry would get his engine done. Then I could by one of his cranks. But at almost 76 I might run out of time, before he gets it done.
 
George Miller said:
The problem you run in to is the Model A engine is wide between 2and3 so the crank rod journals will not line up with the bore. I have one out of the chev 4 cylinder engine that was in the chev 2 . It would work if the journals would line up..

The engine you talked about, I have no knowledge about. I will check them out.

I was hopping Terry would get his engine done. Then I could by one of his cranks. But at almost 76 I might run out of time, before he gets it done.
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I *think* the GM one is code LTG : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Family_II_engine#LTG


The VW one I'm not sure other than I think its refered to as the 2.0TFSI.
 
What is the advantage of using a late model crank, such as those listed? They are all a much shorter stroke so the cubic inch displacement will be a lot less. You would have to turn a lot more RPM to compensate for the smaller engine size, and a flathead engine loses breathing efficiency at high RPM. Plus, you'd need a long duration camshaft to make power at high RPM, so the low RPM power output goes in the toilet.
Thanks for enlightening me!
 
40 Deluxe said:
What is the advantage of using a late model crank, such as those listed? They are all a much shorter stroke so the cubic inch displacement will be a lot less. You would have to turn a lot more RPM to compensate for the smaller engine size, and a flathead engine loses breathing efficiency at high RPM. Plus, you'd need a long duration camshaft to make power at high RPM, so the low RPM power output goes in the toilet.
Thanks for enlightening me!
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40 Deluxe,

The GM 2 liter is rated to produce 260 lb-ft (353 Nm) @ 1700-5500 rpm which is a lot more than the stock "A" engine, of course its directed injected and turbocharged which I'm not sure what Mr Miller is after in the end.

I have no idea what the stroke is vs the "A" I simply posted them as ideas as I knew the cranks could handle power. The rest was up to Mr Miller as I know he knows what he is doing. I simply tossed it out there as ideas of 4 cyl cranks.
 
40 Deluxe said:
What is the advantage of using a late model crank, such as those listed? They are all a much shorter stroke so the cubic inch displacement will be a lot less. You would have to turn a lot more RPM to compensate for the smaller engine size, and a flathead engine loses breathing efficiency at high RPM. Plus, you'd need a long duration camshaft to make power at high RPM, so the low RPM power output goes in the toilet.
Thanks for enlightening me!
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Thanks for your concern. First off it will not be a flat head. I'm going to use the over head valve head that I made a year or so ago. The head is built to breath, it is a cross flow with big valves.

I want horse power not toque. I want to have a wide rpm range. You are not going to get that with a long stroke engine. If you do the math on the piston speed of a 4 1/4 stroke verses a 3 1/2 you will see there is a big difference at 5000 rpms. There for a lot less friction. If it was going to be a big truck hauling big loads you would want the torque.
 
Wow, George, I'm definately impressed. If you make the rods out of 7075, will you add the wrist-pin bushings and insert bearings, or will you run directly against the 7075 aluminum? Curious minds would like to know...
Best Regards, Chris
 
Chris in CT said:
Wow, George, I'm definately impressed. If you make the rods out of 7075, will you add the wrist-pin bushings and insert bearings, or will you run directly against the 7075 aluminum? Curious minds would like to know...
Best Regards, Chris
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The last set of rods that I made from 7075 I ran the wrist pins tight in the rods, with no bushing. I have used bushings one time before. Seems to work ok with out bushings. Will use insert bearings.
 
Up date I'm not working on this for now. Had some trouble with the camshaft, so decided to work on the old engine that I run before for the hill climb car. We will still use my home built cylinder head. It is running very strong right now. After the hill climb I will get back on the 5 main.
 
George Miller said:
Up date I'm not working on this for now. Had some trouble with the camshaft, so decided to work on the old engine that I run before for the hill climb car. We will still use my home built cylinder head. It is running very strong right now. After the hill climb I will get back on the 5 main.
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Hey George,
Thanks for update on both !
What is the compression ratio with your newly made Miller OHV Head ?
 
George Miller said:
I could not say what the compression is, I never checked it. My guise would be 7-1
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Hey George,
Thanks !
Are your pistons even with block ? Do you have picture of comp chamber to share ?

Curiosity ?
Do you use model A crank; B crank or modified crank ?
 
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hardtimes said:
Hey George,
Thanks !
Are your pistons even with block ? Do you have picture of comp chamber to share ?

Curiosity ?
Do you use model A crank; B crank or modified crank ?
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Yes the pistons are even with block. The old engine is a model A crank. The 5 main is a chev 327 crank.

There are more pictures on my making of a cylinder head post. I will re post it.
 

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George Miller said:
Yes the pistons are even with block. The old engine is a model A crank. The 5 main is a chev 327 crank.

There are more pictures on my making of a cylinder head post. I will re post it.
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Thanks George,
Get more info every time read , from pictures and info :) !

Since you are skilled enough to make such equipment, can you also make ANY combustion chamber that you like (thinking hemi chamber) or are there limits to chamber design, in your opinion ?
 
hardtimes said:
Thanks George,
Get more info every time read , from pictures and info :) !

Since you are skilled enough to make such equipment, can you also make ANY combustion chamber that you like (thinking hemi chamber) or are there limits to chamber design, in your opinion ?
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I never did a hemi, but I' m sure I could. Do they use hemi heads on race engines? I do not know.
 
Back working on this engine and my home built cylinder head. Had the back have of the cam off a few degrees. When I put it in the engine I had to cut it in the middle and add the gear for the dist and oil pump. The cam is for a 327 chev to match the crankshaft. I messed up on the rear of of the cam timing.
 
Hm, Miller...where have I heard that name before ? You didn't have a Miller relative (circa 20s/30s) who 'tinkered' with engines, do you:cool: !!

Glad to see that you are keeping the grey matter busy George :)
 
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