49 F1 Flathead 6

Texas Mark

Junior Member
Picked up this 49 from an estate sale.
Has never left Henderson County Texas and parked 40 plus years ago in a barn.
It's an unmolested truck. A few things are missing but it's all original.
Been slowly working the motor loose. Marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and bumping the truck back and forth in gear. Starting to loosen. I read somewhere that it's possible to break a valve this way - - any thoughts are welcome.
The crankshaft bolt is almost impossible to get at without removing the radiator.

Thanks
TM
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2991.jpg
    IMG_2991.jpg
    138.6 KB · Views: 242
Picked up this 49 from an estate sale.
Has never left Henderson County Texas and parked 40 plus years ago in a barn.
It's an unmolested truck. A few things are missing but it's all original.
Been slowly working the motor loose. Marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and bumping the truck back and forth in gear. Starting to loosen. I read somewhere that it's possible to break a valve this way - - any thoughts are welcome.
The crankshaft bolt is almost impossible to get at without removing the radiator.

Thanks
TM
587153
 
I would suggest taking the time to remove the head. Great looking truck. Those early F1's are very cool.
 
I strongly agree with 47. You can have the head of in a matter of minutes and can possibly save yourself from a hone and ring job. I have yet to remove a head from a long term parked motor and feel I wasted my time.
 
Fine looking rig.

A couple of points:
Neither the thermostat housing nor the waterpump for this engine is reproduced - be gentle with the housing as they are prone to cracking at the mounting feet.
The water pump can be rebuilt by https://cowboyjohnsautoparts.com/
Also, the exhaust manifold - also not repopped - doesn't like rough handling.

Good luck with coaxing this beauty back to life.
 
Fine looking rig.

A couple of points:
Neither the thermostat housing nor the waterpump for this engine is reproduced - be gentle with the housing as they are prone to cracking at the mounting feet.
The water pump can be rebuilt by
Also, the exhaust manifold - also not repopped - doesn't like rough handling.

Good luck with coaxing this beauty back to life.

Where is a good place to get parts ?

My plan is to get her running and stopping.
Just drive it as is for now.
I have a few other projects going on - - so - - we all know how that goes !
 
If removing the head, you may want to fabricate a lift setup using the sparkplug holes to lift the head off the studs. I had a G engine that was ruined due to the previous owner trying to pull the head and not being able to get it over the studs. Two rear cylinders partially filled with water, badly rusting the cylinders and corroding the pistons. He also managed to break the water pump housing. Use caution when working on these flathead sixes, parts are very hard to find. Good luck!
 
Really sad about part shortages as these engines are great pullers and powerful smooth runners.
Good luck, that is a nice truck.
 
Where is a good place to get parts ?

My plan is to get her running and stopping.
Just drive it as is for now.
I have a few other projects going on - - so - - we all know how that goes !

I would use Chuck’s Trucks in CT. He knows everything about these trucks and answers his own phone. He is an invaluable source of information. chuck4850@outlook.com

(203) 288-2769
 
Where is a good place to get parts ?

My plan is to get her running and stopping.
Just drive it as is for now.
I have a few other projects going on - - so - - we all know how that goes !

There isn't a single reseller for everything. Chuck's is a great resource but the type of parts will affect your sourcing. What general categories will you need? Mechanical? Body panels? Brakes?...
 
The H-series engine wasn't bad. Parts are more available for it than the older G-series but they were a lot alike. Flatheads stick valves more commonly that the overhead types. Severely stuck valves can be a reason for a seized up engine so be aware that the pistons aren't the only thing that can lock up. I have an old V8 that a farmer drug his truck with a tractor trying to free it up and it busted the cam and drove a valve through the top of one cam follower.

I loved the F1s prior to 1951. I prefer the V8 but I wouldn't walk away from a good H6 if I was looking. A person can swap them out but that doesn't change the VIN. V8s always had the RC in there. The six has the HC on F1 specific vehicles. The date codes got messed up in 1949 through 1950 so it's hard to tell the exact year on those. One of the Ford truck Forums has the best information on the year of manufacture questions.
 
Last edited:
Thanks - - all good information.

Pumper - - Already planned on fabing something to remove the head. Got a picture ?

49er - - brakes for sure - - probably mechanical as I'm not sure about the entire drivetrain yet. Texas truck - - no rust aside from surface stuff.


TM
 
Last edited:
If removing the head, you may want to fabricate a lift setup using the sparkplug holes to lift the head off the studs. I had a G engine that was ruined due to the previous owner trying to pull the head and not being able to get it over the studs. Two rear cylinders partially filled with water, badly rusting the cylinders and corroding the pistons. He also managed to break the water pump housing. Use caution when working on these flathead sixes, parts are very hard to find. Good luck!


H engines use bolts not studs.
 
Dennis-carpenter.com is a good source for brake parts and a variety of other items. Other sources include Midwestearlyford.com and Napa.
 
I have an H six in my avatar '46 jailbar tonner express. I bought a large percentage of the mechanical parts at my local NAPA store. Carb kit, fuel pump, all brake hydraulic parts, gaskets, seals and ignition. I have a theory. Engines like the H six have a long history in agricultural areas. Farm trucks, combines, irrigation pumps etc. There is a NAPA store in most rural areas of N. America. These service parts are used to keep peoples livelihoods afloat, not just in show cars/trucks. The customer needs the part to function and hold up under real life conditions and it doesn't matter if it looks exactly like Henry's. I also feel these service parts tend to be 'fresher' for lack of a better word. NOS is ideal ln many parts, but not these soft parts.
 
Our 50 F1 has the 226 and it runs like a sewing machine. It’s not as popular as the V8 but I like it. We rebuilt the engine and with a little effort found everything we needed to do it, all NOS components. Over the years I have amassed quite the hoard of spare parts so if you run into something you can’t find ping me. The exhaust heat riser parts are the hardest thing to find, hopefully yours is complete.

JB
 
Back
Top