‘48 Rear Drums

Otterby

Otterby

Junior Member
‘48 Rear Drums

I’m trying to find a set of rear brake drums without the hubs for a 1948 Super Deluxe. The hubs are inside mount. Mac’s sells new drums for $130. I think this is crazy, I can buy drums for my 1 ton truck for $80. And I haven’t been really impressed with the quality of parts from Mac’s. Does anyone know where I can find drums cheaper than Mac’s? I’ve tried NAPA, Oreillys and Autozone but they don’t show that they have anything for that car.
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

replacing drums is a big deal. you need to cut the swedged studs with a hole saw before you press them out, or bend the hub. there is only two makers of the drums, chinese stuff from macs and others, or.... gol dangit, on the tip of my tongue, the folks that make the new hubs and lincoln backing plates? sombody will help! but you need new studs, modern splined things and true drums after they are mounted, its a big deal MT products, i believe makes the good drums
 
Last edited:
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

Get drum from MT Auto Products. Replace the swedged studs with modern studs that don't need to be pressed in. The only way to go and I have done it on two cars, 36 and 41.
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

Thanks! Those drums from MT look nice! $135 for a drum is still nuts but I’m fine paying that if it’s a quality product. Does anyone know what modern press in studs I should use with my original inside hubs and the Lincoln style drum?
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

I used studs for F1/F-100 hubs. The shoulder was the right diameter to fit the drum and the length was perfect. I opened the hub hole to something almost 5/8". This is with Speedway drums.
 
Last edited:
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

I've used 2 different vendors (but most likely the same drum manufacture) of the original style drums with bad results. BOTH sets of drums were warped, both places would replace them at my cost for shipping. I turned them to make them better but still where warped. My next purchase will be the Lincolns from MT.

To answer your price question, that is the going rate, unless you get good used.
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

Otterby said:
Thanks! Those drums from MT look nice! $135 for a drum is still nuts but I’m fine paying that if it’s a quality product. Does anyone know what modern press in studs I should use with my original inside hubs and the Lincoln style drum?
Click to expand...

Early Ford Parts in San Dimas has the drums... they have everything you need! I did the MT bendix upgrade a year ago... I could only afford the separate hub & drums for the rears.. but I didn't have to replace any studs.. I ended up with them because my original hub/drum combined had a stripped stud.. and even though I told the machine shop to be careful, they messed up & warped the hub.. I am extremely happy with the MT bendix style
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

Otterby said:
Thanks! Those drums from MT look nice! $135 for a drum is still nuts but I’m fine paying that if it’s a quality product. Does anyone know what modern press in studs I should use with my original inside hubs and the Lincoln style drum?
Click to expand...

On Boling's web sight they recommend reaming the original holes to .600" and using Dorman 610-234 studs.
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

I used the press in studs on my '47, but the ones they sell you are for the repo hubs which are thick. They really stick out of the rear hubs bad (hub inside the drum). I used Dorman 610-191 and had to slightly taper the new drum with a stone on the inside of the rear. If you have a lathe you can turn the end down (I didn't when I put this together in 2008). This is with a .600 hole to start with.

With the 610-234 studs you buy repo:
front-hub-1-jpg.468598

rear-hub-1-jpg.468600


With the 610-191 studs:
front-hub-2-jpg.468599

rear-hub-2-jpg.468601
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

^ I'd be surprised if they have, I looked a couple of weeks ago.

In fact I just checked, they have nothing against 1947 or 1948. What they do have is drums listed for the 1948 F1. those are 11", however, not what we are discussing here.

Mart.
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

1oldtimer said:
I used the press in studs on my '47, but the ones they sell you are for the repo hubs which are thick. They really stick out of the rear hubs bad (hub inside the drum). I used Dorman 610-191 and had to slightly taper the new drum with a stone on the inside of the rear. If you have a lathe you can turn the end down (I didn't when I put this together in 2008). This is with a .600 hole to start with.

With the 610-234 studs you buy repo:
front-hub-1-jpg.468598

rear-hub-1-jpg.468600


With the 610-191 studs:
front-hub-2-jpg.468599

rear-hub-2-jpg.468601
Click to expand...


With the pressed in studs you used, the new drum just floats ? Like a later style rear drum on a truck?
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

Hub-centered. The ID of the hole in the drum and the OD of the shoulder on the hub match and center the drum on the hub. The studs just hold the wheel on.

As contrasted to a Model A (lug centered) where the swaged lugs locate the drum on the hub and which require centering/turning after assembly to make sure the drum is centered on the hub.
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

skidmarks said:
With the pressed in studs you used, the new drum just floats ? Like a later style rear drum on a truck?
Click to expand...

Yes, they’re hub centric. These are aftermarket drums, if your using stock drums you might need to open up the lug holes a little......I’ll find out when the ‘28 is done :).
 
Re: ‘48 Rear Drums

cas3 said:
replacing drums is a big deal. you need to cut the swedged studs with a hole saw before you press them out, or bend the hub. there is only two makers of the drums, chinese stuff from macs and others, or.... gol dangit, on the tip of my tongue, the folks that make the new hubs and lincoln backing plates? sombody will help! but you need new studs, modern splined things and true drums after they are mounted, its a big deal MT products, i believe makes the good drums
Click to expand...

As an alternative to pressing the old studs out the back, you can drill the back off the old studs, not as easy as cutting the front of both the stud and the drum. Use a smaller bit, maybe 5/16", to pilot a hole.
Then, use a bit 5/8" or so. Keep the depth so that you're not going to cut into the hub (or drum) itself. If you stop a bit short, a punch and hammer will break off the last bit of the stud flange.

Karl
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top