48 mercury points adjust
- Thread starter Popeye31
- Start date
The only practical way to adjust them is to remove dist & work on it on the bench.I dont remember point gap off hand.The drive tang is offset so make sure it is reinstalled correctly or it will damage dist. best way to install is to use 2 headless bolts & turn shaft until it pops into place.Its not neccesary to have a K R Wilson or similar machine to time it properly.Set the degree plate on side of dist in middle of its travel & it can be moved a bit during a road test.Vacuum brake can be screwed in a bit if it pings badly under load.Its been awhile since Ive done one of these dists but hopefully this info will help.
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
The drill is easy once you figgeritout: Remove the two 1/2" headed bolts (originals are special shoulder diameter to maintain alignment) and disconnect primary wire.
Pop the cap bail loose, leave cap dangling.
Stick in two fingers and slide off rotor, yopu can now remove distrid easily through the jungle of belts and stuff.
Reverse for reassembly...once rotor is on you use it as a handle to rotate distributor innards until offset tang finds its home and everything slides back into place...
Don't forget to re-hook the cap! I forgot once, and spent some time wondering about the tick-tick-tick from the engine room. Car was running fine...
Once you have done the R&R, removal is very quick and you should be able to do it fine in the dark, as it is largely Braille no matter what.
Gap, phasing, timing with ruler have been extensively covered and distributor is fully serviced on the bench, ready to go when you boltiton.
Pop the cap bail loose, leave cap dangling.
Stick in two fingers and slide off rotor, yopu can now remove distrid easily through the jungle of belts and stuff.
Reverse for reassembly...once rotor is on you use it as a handle to rotate distributor innards until offset tang finds its home and everything slides back into place...
Don't forget to re-hook the cap! I forgot once, and spent some time wondering about the tick-tick-tick from the engine room. Car was running fine...
Once you have done the R&R, removal is very quick and you should be able to do it fine in the dark, as it is largely Braille no matter what.
Gap, phasing, timing with ruler have been extensively covered and distributor is fully serviced on the bench, ready to go when you boltiton.
ford38v8
Well-known member
Screwing the brake in will tighten up the leather vacuum brake. With gasoline today being a minimum of 86 octane, you won't normally experience a ping unless your distributor was set up with too much advance anyway.
An erratic condition can also occur if the vacuum brake is not effective at all, which would allow the advance plate to bounce freely between advance and retard.
William H Morris
Junior Member
The only way to properly adjust and test a early Ford distributor is to tune, time and test it on a distributor stroboscope. You will hear a lot of people say "all you gotta do is -----" but you can't determine if the timing is correct or if the advance characteristics are functioning properly, or if the dwell changes because of point float with speed or if the point resistance is not excessive.
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
I agree ,You may get it close with a timing fixture providing things are in good condition but !