48 coupe floor patch questions

[Bolts]

The floor is rusted through about 10 inches wide all along both doors. I am wondering if I should replace the whole floor or just the two bad sections leaving the transmission hump?

I am also questioning whether to try to keep the forward section with the removable portion because it is perfectly good, or to weld the floor solid as it appears that is how the replacement kits are made. I don't like closing off the portion the factory made removable.

Has anyone replaced the floor and can you give me some tips and help finding the right parts?
Thanks

 

[Bolts]

Anyone?

 

[19Fordy]

Posting photos will yield more replies. My advice is to keep the floor and it's removable areas original. If you weld in every panel to make it all one piece solid
you will regret it later on when you need to replace or repair parts that are now accessible by removing floor panels, such as the transmission, master cylinder,dimmer switch, aniti-chatter rods, torques tube bolts, universal joints etc.

 

[Old Henry]

Haven't replaced the permanent part of the floor as you need but I can say that you do not want to seal the removable section to the surrounding metal or you'll have to just unseal it when you need to remove the transmission. That part is removable specifically for that purpose. Old Chuckles up the street decided to seal his entire floor with Rhino Lining (that black plastic that is sprayed in pickup beds). When he needed to remove his transmission he found out just how tough that Rhino Lining is. After trying to cut through it around the removable floor section with every kind of knife and tin snips he finally had to use a cutting wheel to cut through it to remove the section so he could get the transmission out.

I have quite a bit of rust and just glued pieces of aluminum flashing over the holes with silicone. It works as good as replacement and is under the mat so can't be seen. Works for me.

 

[flatford8]

If it were me ,and it is because I'm doing the floors on '51.I'd weld in patches over the rusted areas. Escpessially if it near the rockers. That's a structural part of the whole car and should be solid. OMO. Keep the hump if its good and becareful of store bought patches. I got them and probably could have done better myself. keep your removable panels. Their there for a reason.....Good Luck....Mark

 

[rotorwrench]

It all depends on what a person wants as the end product. I've known folks that were fine with pop riveting old road signs or refrigerator metal over the holes in the floor and then again I know some who want it to look as good as it did after original manufacture. Most restorers only replace the affected metal area. Butt welding of patches is not a detractor from the strength of the body as long as it is done well. If the rockers are rusty too then they should be repaired or replaced along with the floor.

There should be somebody out there that make decent floor pans. The ones in the Macs catalog I think were made with a fire axe. They're all wrinkled & wavy looking. For the Mercury cars from 49 to 51, there are a few folks that make decent ones but I don't know about the Ford cars.

 

[waterboychuck]

I had to replace the rockers on my 46 coupe but the floor was in good condition. You may want to look at www.emsautomotive.com for replacement parts. The only other thing I would like to mention is I hope you have a plasma cutter because it will make the job so much easier. I did not have one when I replaced my rockers and it was a pain. Good luck, and take your time.

 

[Bolts]

Been thinking of buying a flux welder for a while now, and a 4 inch disc grinder. Those items I can manage. The welding part worries me. Gonna take a lot of practice. Might be too old to drive by the time I get it down.

Appreciate the suggestions. Guess I'll go for it.

Pictures to follow.

 

[Bubba]

You may try a Mig with shield gas. I think it help me get to where I could get by, tacking for sure. I is cleaner (better on your lungs welding and clean up) not as much clean up. You can also use Flux wire if you won't to go that way.

You may be able to rent on and try it out and see what you like best.

I am sure some that know more about this will give you there in put.

 

[ems customer service]

I had to replace the rockers on my 46 coupe but the floor was in good condition. You may want to look at www.emsautomotive.com for replacement parts. The only other thing I would like to mention is I hope you have a plasma cutter because it will make the job so much easier. I did not have one when I replaced my rockers and it was a pain. Good luck, and take your time.

thanks for the referal, we make all of our products in the usa,

and are available by telephone if needed, call if you have any specific questions

the ems guy

 

[laryh]

My floors and rockers were in poor condition. I wanted to retain all the original contours etc. I cut out all the rusted areas with a 4 1/2 inch grinder with cutting discs. 18 gauge was used over lapping about an inch and spot welded the patch. I then cut 4 inch wide 18 gauge strips to cover the the seam of the repair top and bottom. I used a bead roller for strength using the originals for a pattern. To make the bends I clamped the metal to a 10 inch beam and hammered it to shape. The floor was painted using POR 15. Is the floor show quality heck no but they are strong and duplicate the factory floors.

 

[flatford8]

Laryh.....Looks good to me! I bought Macs floor pans and thats right, they look like they were hacked out with an axe. The one piece I got from ems(shipped thru macs) is quality stuff......Mark

 

[Bolts]

Thanks for the encouragement Laryh. Good pics. The rust you fixed is a little worse than my car but not much. How did you spot weld the flanges?

 

[Marvin/TN]

There is a fiber glass piece made for the removable part of thr floor board. At the moment I can't remember who offers it but it is out there. There used to be a company with the name: Fairlane something or something Fairlane that offered it. But have see it offered by someone else lately but just can't remember the name now.

 

[laryh]

Here are a few more pictures. As I said the rust was pretty severe. Sometimes I wonder what was I thinking when I bought that car but there was just something about redoing a car that was originally hopped up in the fifties. I have never done anything like this before.
The borrowed spot welder was used on areas not seen mainly the floors, rockers, trunk etc. My arms and hands would ache after using the spot welder. Then a refurbished mig was bought on Ebay for repairing the fenders, cowl, quarters. The quarter patch panel is EMS. All the rust was cut out and replaced with new steel. In the end everything came out fine.

 

[Bolts]

Very encouraging pictures. I think I might be able to do something like this, MAYBE.
Did you make the inner fender patch you show in pictures 2 and 3?
Do you have to weld the bottom of the quarter panel?
What is the extra panel for forward of the gas sending unit cover?
Oh yeah, lastly, no gas tank in the car correct?

 

[BILL WZOREK]

The Pic. of the old floor Pan looks like it is sad because it failed you !!!!!!

 

[laryh]

I made the inner rockers, lower rear quarter panel, the rocker panels. I made the panel where the running board mounts using the running board as a template. I welded nuts in that panel to mount the running board. The flat piece in the trunk was a repop. I had to make all the other bent pieces like the gas tank filler pipe cover. The panel in front of the gas tank sending unit cover is for accessing the front gas tank bolt. Mercs had a tool box and cover plate in that area.
I say go for it. Just take your time. Have a big scrap barrel and bandages. And a beer for when you become frustrated. And you cam always ask me and the many others on Ford Barn who will be glad to help.