'47 Ignition Key Problem?

Fred A

Fred A

Well-known member
The ignition and driver's door are keyed alike but the ignition lock is usually difficult to turn with the key, which is a '50s copy and shows wear. The problem is not new as the ignition lock was swimming in graphite oil when I bought the car 5 years ago and subsequent generations of keys copied function even more poorly. I expect that removing the ignition cylinder is quite difficult, at least I don't know how, and the door cylinder seems to be keyed correctly. Can I expect that a correctly coded key can be made from the door that will work well in the ignition? Is it more likely that the ignition cylinder is just worn out? Any experience with this problem? Thanks: Fred A
 
I have a similar problem with our '47 Convertibles ignition key, it sometimes gets hung up and you have to move the key up and down while turning it counter-clockwise to release the steering column lock and be able to move the on-off switch. I've never even tried the door lock because it’s a convertible. I've used graphite and other lubricants but the problem persist. I even had new keys cut from original key blanks, with no better result.
 
I had a 47 coupe that was that was. The cylinder with the tumblers were wore out. Had a new cylinder installed with the new key and it ws fine. Marv
 
Almost certainly the little plungers in the lock cylinder are getting worn....or the little springs behind the plungers are broken. These lock cylinders can actually be repaired but it's tricky work, best done by a locksmith. Your chore is to remove the lock assy. His job will be to carefully remove the stainless steel retaining cap and get at the plungers. Once he replaces those, a new key can be made which will fit perfectly. Here is a link to a webpage I did on the lock on my 39 Ford several years ago.

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/1939ford-project-restoration-10.htm
 
i had problems with mine a few years ago, i took it to a good "old" locksmith (hard to find one anymore) and there was a spring in the way. to take the lock out you need to carefully drill out the pin on the under side of the housing. i drilled it, screwed in a sheetmetal screw, clamped on some vice grips and tapped the vice grips with a hammer. you can buy a new pin and the lock slides out.
 
First, though, try cheap&easy new key from code: Unscrew a tiny Allen-head #10 screw in edge of door right abaft the lock cylinder there and pull that cylinder. It will either have code stamped or a good smith can figgerout code from pin levels and make a full spec key to replace the ones made from worn out nubbins. That MAY solve all problems without pulling the steering lock cylinder.
 
Removed the lock cylinder from the driver's door and found no code. The potmetal assembly seems to be too staked together for an easy autopsy but perhaps in more able hands? The passenger side cylinder seems to be frozen and may yield to some heat later if needed. Los Angeles area lock guys seem to be dominated by mobil operators who will get you into your car or house. The key price seems to be $25 but the interview shows that most just arrived in USA and have no clue otherwise. Shops that are actually open to the public are too often closed. A guy in the Model A club here wants to give it a try and I expect he will be my best bet. Thanks for the great replies to my problem. Fred A
 
I can suggest Leon Rowell, he has done some of my lock work and always does a first class job. The ignition cylinder may not be servacable due to ware not only in the internal pins but also the housing itself. a replacement cylinder can be repined to match the doors. Leon has good luck freeing a cylinder. 641 623-1956 1191 480th Ave. Montezuma, Iowa 50171
 
Quick & Easy

Bruce's "quick & easy" is the short term approach that I'll try. Since the '47 is the old style lock with the separate switch, looks like the key will be in the lock, left in the on position until I can get a better key. Seems to be key sensitive since finding an earlier generation copy which makes things better. Really wanting to set the '47 aside and work on my A-V8. Thanks: Fred A
 
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