1947 Coupe. 6 volt. positive ground. Headlights barely glow. Everyone says ground issue. All grounds seem good. Parking lights are fine. Tailights work. Checked voltage at the light socket and get 5.5. Hard to tell if low or high beams are on since I don't think indicator works. Anyhow, I noticed while trying to diagnose, that the wires just under dash entering the light switch get pretty warm when headlights are "on". Perhaps a short in the switch??? How do I remove the switch? Is there a release button on the body of the switch?? Car was rewired when car was restored about 20 years ago. Everything appears to be in very nice shape. Any help would be appreciated!
47 Ford Headlights
- Thread starter GAR64
- Start date
Doublepumper
Senior Member
If not a ground problem, its probable the headlight switch or dimmer switch is the problem. To remove the headlight switch, insert a small screwdriver into a slot on the switch body and lever it towards the rear while pulling the knob out to release the shaft from the switch, then unscrew the retaining nut/bezel to remove the switch from the dash.
It's also possible the dimmer switch is the problem. To check, jumper out the center terminal to one of the other two wire terminals and see if there is any change in the brightness of the headlights. One of the other two terminals on the dimmer switch will be for high beam and the other for low beam. Jumping from the center terminal to one of the other terminals will bypass possible bad contacts in the dimmer switch and the headlights should light up as they should.
Good luck!
It's also possible the dimmer switch is the problem. To check, jumper out the center terminal to one of the other two wire terminals and see if there is any change in the brightness of the headlights. One of the other two terminals on the dimmer switch will be for high beam and the other for low beam. Jumping from the center terminal to one of the other terminals will bypass possible bad contacts in the dimmer switch and the headlights should light up as they should.
Good luck!
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
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Even though the OTHER lights around the car (tails, parks, etc.) are working, there could still be a problem with the HEADLIGHT bulb circuit going through the HEADLIGHT switch. Or, the wires on the terminals going into, or out of the headlight switch could be loose. You could also have a similar problem (loose wires) going into and out of the LOW BEAM/HIGH BEAM switch, or a problem with that switch itself. You should remember that headlight bulbs require quite a bit of current (AMPERAGE) to operate when compared to lesser bulbs like tails and parks. There are also several "bullet" connectors in the wiring between the headlight switch, the dimmer switch, and the headlights themselves which COULD be corroded. But since it seems BOTH Low beams and High beams are weak, the culprit will likely turn-out to be a common (to both hi & low beams) circuit to BOTH headlight beams, such as the output from headlight switch to the dimmer switch, and/or the dimmer switch itself.
Below is a LINK to an electrical schematic for the '47 Ford, complements of Mac VanPelt, that should help you troubleshoot what I have explained above. Good luck, and check back here with us. DD
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/...pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1946-48car.jpg
........
Even though the OTHER lights around the car (tails, parks, etc.) are working, there could still be a problem with the HEADLIGHT bulb circuit going through the HEADLIGHT switch. Or, the wires on the terminals going into, or out of the headlight switch could be loose. You could also have a similar problem (loose wires) going into and out of the LOW BEAM/HIGH BEAM switch, or a problem with that switch itself. You should remember that headlight bulbs require quite a bit of current (AMPERAGE) to operate when compared to lesser bulbs like tails and parks. There are also several "bullet" connectors in the wiring between the headlight switch, the dimmer switch, and the headlights themselves which COULD be corroded. But since it seems BOTH Low beams and High beams are weak, the culprit will likely turn-out to be a common (to both hi & low beams) circuit to BOTH headlight beams, such as the output from headlight switch to the dimmer switch, and/or the dimmer switch itself.
Below is a LINK to an electrical schematic for the '47 Ford, complements of Mac VanPelt, that should help you troubleshoot what I have explained above. Good luck, and check back here with us. DD
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/...pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1946-48car.jpg
........
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
OR....maybe that wire(s) is/are LOOSE at the switch. Just work thru it systematically, one step at a time, so that you KNOW where the problem WAS! DD
Ok. While looking at the switch, I noticed one of the bullet connections looked slightly pulled out of boot. Pushed in tightly and headlights now work. Ford 46 you were correct! My only question is that I noticed some of the other bullets get pretty hot with lights on. Is that normal??I’m going to check all of the connections. All wiring appears in very good shape.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Would that have been one of the two bullet connectors BETWEEN the light switch and the dimmer switch? DD
51woodie
Well-known member
Gar. Bullet connections should not be hot, unless there is a poor connection. I had to go through the connectors on my '46, to clean the bullet ends and clean and resize the female connectors. I resized by pushing the metal part out of the rubber cover, did a little "crimping' to tighten the fit, then inserted the piece back in the cover.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
I like to use this stuff on the electrical connections.
NO-OX-ID “A-SPECIAL” is the electrical contact grease of choice for new electrical installations and maintenance. NO-OX-ID is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion.
This not di-electric grease, it is a conductive grease. Not easy to find, I order it off of amazon.
NO-OX-ID “A-SPECIAL” is the electrical contact grease of choice for new electrical installations and maintenance. NO-OX-ID is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion.
This not di-electric grease, it is a conductive grease. Not easy to find, I order it off of amazon.
Attachments
petehoovie
Well-known member
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corvette8n
Well-known member
JSeery
Member Emeritus
Not sure, but I do a lot of electrical work on houses with aluminum wiring and use it on the connections. I will have to check into it.
Well, that didn't take long.
Noalox is a product specifically formulated to not only provide corrosion protection but also to improve the electrical connection itself. Unlike dielectric grease or Vaseline, it conducts electricity. It fills the tiny voids between the connectors with and lowers the resistance.
I still prefer the NO-OX-ID
NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade Conductive Grease (2oz)
SKU:SKU-362
Availability: In Stock
$4.50
PRODUCT DETAILS
NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the electrical contact grease of choice for new electrical installations and maintenance. NO-OX-ID is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion. This electrically conductive grease which has been used in the power industry for over 65 years to prevent corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. NO-OX-ID electrical grease prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on copper, aluminum, and steel surfaces and conductors. The purpose of a electrical contact lubricant is to prevent corrosion and lubricate the connection for easier maintenance. NO-OX-ID "A-Special" electrical grease prevents corrosion attack on all metal surfaces. Attack can come from battery acid, salt, moisture and various industrial chemical vapors in the environment. When this conductive paste is used on aluminum connectors in joints, NO-OX-ID "A-Special" prevents the reformation of oxide films, which cause high resistance and subsequent failures. NO-OX-ID A-Special conductive grease is recommended by connector manufacturers for trouble-free joint connections. When nuts, mounting bolts, and cotter keys are coated with NO-OX-ID "A-Special", they will never rust or freeze assuring you easy, trouble-free removal. NO-OX-ID "A-Special" should be used wherever the formation of a corrosive product will effect the proper functioning of the metal surface. This electrical contact grease is easily applied, easily removed, and gives long lasting reliable performance even on dissimilar metals. No-ox-id A-special comes in convenient 2oz jars. Illumination Supply note: This is an excellent flashlight grease that is non-toxic. It is even certified as being usable in meat & poultry plants! We have found it excellent in all the lights we've tested it on, from twisties to clickies, and it is one of the few greases available that is electrically conductive. A jar will last a very long time.
Well, that didn't take long.
Noalox is a product specifically formulated to not only provide corrosion protection but also to improve the electrical connection itself. Unlike dielectric grease or Vaseline, it conducts electricity. It fills the tiny voids between the connectors with and lowers the resistance.
I still prefer the NO-OX-ID
NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade Conductive Grease (2oz)
SKU:SKU-362
Availability: In Stock
$4.50
PRODUCT DETAILS
NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the electrical contact grease of choice for new electrical installations and maintenance. NO-OX-ID is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion. This electrically conductive grease which has been used in the power industry for over 65 years to prevent corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. NO-OX-ID electrical grease prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on copper, aluminum, and steel surfaces and conductors. The purpose of a electrical contact lubricant is to prevent corrosion and lubricate the connection for easier maintenance. NO-OX-ID "A-Special" electrical grease prevents corrosion attack on all metal surfaces. Attack can come from battery acid, salt, moisture and various industrial chemical vapors in the environment. When this conductive paste is used on aluminum connectors in joints, NO-OX-ID "A-Special" prevents the reformation of oxide films, which cause high resistance and subsequent failures. NO-OX-ID A-Special conductive grease is recommended by connector manufacturers for trouble-free joint connections. When nuts, mounting bolts, and cotter keys are coated with NO-OX-ID "A-Special", they will never rust or freeze assuring you easy, trouble-free removal. NO-OX-ID "A-Special" should be used wherever the formation of a corrosive product will effect the proper functioning of the metal surface. This electrical contact grease is easily applied, easily removed, and gives long lasting reliable performance even on dissimilar metals. No-ox-id A-special comes in convenient 2oz jars. Illumination Supply note: This is an excellent flashlight grease that is non-toxic. It is even certified as being usable in meat & poultry plants! We have found it excellent in all the lights we've tested it on, from twisties to clickies, and it is one of the few greases available that is electrically conductive. A jar will last a very long time.
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