47 coupe trans mount

svmsr1044

Senior Member
Need to replace trans mount 47 V8 coupe, do I remove floor pan? Jack trans to clear studs? any advise would be helpful. Thanks, Steve
 
46 years ago I replaced the mount and recall that I had to remove the transmission. I took the engine out but I think you could also slide the rear end/torque tube assembly back, jack up the rear of the transmission and unbolt mount. That way I don't think you have to remove the transmission.
Unbolt seat and remove if you plan to remove the transmission. It comes out the top. Also, unhook shift linkage if you plan to remove the transmission. My car is a 1940. I think procedure is the same for your car and transmission.While you have the clamshell apart, be sure and check universal joint for wear and install a new clamshell seal.Be sure and take plenty of photos for reassembly. These photos are from 2 weeks ago when I removed my complete rear. I have tons more if you need them
Other Fordbarners with more recent experiences will probably chime in.
 

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I just had my gearbox removed in my 1947 Merc Conv in order to avoid touching the engine when replacing the clutch. I'm done and offer you the following. You don't need to remove the seat, floor pan yes, preferrably also the water heater if you have one, rear end and drive shaft assembly to be mooved backwards meaning loosening the rubber brake hose and emergency brake wire, disassembling the spring unit and shock absorbers from the frame. A lot of work. The universal joint needs to be removed to get the transmission out of the car. Then you would like to have an assistant friend to cool you down when you're getting too hot by frustration. However, you should be happy when you have replaced the rubber mount becuse then you are half way through. Good luck!
 

Good points.
If you have a spring spreader the job is easier and safer.
I left it in place on the spring so it's at the right distance for reinstalling shackles.
USE PLENTY OF JACK STANDS. I even put bottle jacks under the front frame horns.
 

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I replaced my '47 coupe ****** mount. Mine was/is a one-piece long rubber saddle that came wedged into a new steel channel piece, all of which sits on top of the frame cross member. I removed the floor panel (not seat), loosened the anti-chatter rods, disconnected the clutch, carb and shift linkage, and removed the two bolts - one each side of the ******. Now one really needs to have the car on a lift. I jacked/raised the rear of the ****** about a half inch. The clam shell, universal joint, drive train, longitudinal spring, tube shocks and rubber brake hoses at the rear allowed enough minor movement. The existing rubber saddle had been there so long it was like welded there. Had to use several crow bars to pry it loose. Slid out the old and slid new in. Used two large "C" clamps to pull the ****** down tight to the frame to be sure the new rubber was well seated onto the cross member and replaced the two bolts. Retightened the chatter rods and connected the linkages. Bingo. Actually, my ****** pad was in good condition. Regardless, a new one came with the kit (had already replaced the two front pads).
 
I have also changed the 1 piece 47 trans mount in the car without removing the transmission by jacking the trans up.
It is a bear of a job and would be far easier to do with the car on a hoist than on the ground but it is possible. It just takes time and effort but beats pulling the rear axle out.
 
Drbrown and 47Merc:
Thanks for posting. I learned something new as I always thought
you had to slide back the rear end.
 
I rebuilt the trans, did a clutch and trans mount.........I pulled the engine.
 

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