47 brake springs too tight!

RalphM

RalphM

Well-known member
I weigh a tad over 200 pounds and with all my body force I still can’t get this spring within 2 inches of the brake shoe.
Now I have put brake springs on big trucks for years and never had this much trouble. sometimes needing to use a 3 foot prybar to stretch them. I don’t see how to do this on a car without damaging parts.
Does someone have a secret for putting these on without destroying the grease shield?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0957.jpg
    IMG_0957.jpg
    47.8 KB · Views: 149
If I am seeing this right, those can't be the proper springs. If you were able to get them on, they would be so over-stretched as to be ineffective.
 
They look right to me. I always use brake spring pliers, hook one end on the spring and put the pick end on the head of a brake shoe rivet and they go right on. Those shoes look bonded so you might have to improvise something else.
 
I too use a brake spring plier with little issue. Bonded shoes?

Place the spring in place within both shoes prior to installing the lower adjusting pins and plates.
Place one shoe in the cylinder and stretch the other into the opposite side.
 
You shoes are not even close to where the should be. Be sure those all the way into the wheel cylinder correctly and slid in clips on backing plate now lower pivot bolts then anchor pins and springs now your spring. It appears correct.
 
Make sure the shoes are in the wheel cylinder notches, rotated the adjusters back all the way, tighten a ratchet strap around the shoes, and use a spring pliers to pull the spring into place.
 
Here's what brake shoe spring on a 40 Ford left front looks like installed using brake spring pliers. Notice how shoes are fully seated in the wheel cylinder and backing plate clips with lower adjusting pins rotated to fully retracted position. Shoes are bonded.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6876smallLF.jpg
    IMG_6876smallLF.jpg
    75 KB · Views: 244
Last edited:
These are brand new wheel cylinders, so no bleeding. And the shoes are located in the wheel cylinder properly. Although they are hanging a little loose because there’s no spring pulling them towards the cylinder right now.
I’ve never had this much trouble with original springs. I believe these are replacements from Mac’s, I’ve had them for years. And oh, by the way, my shoes are riveted. I blasted, painted and re-lined them myself.
I think I’ll try Kubes idea, as long as I can keep from scratching them all up.
I’m sure I’ll be sweating by the time I’m done.
 
Last edited:
19Fordy said:
Here's what brake shoe spring on a 40 Ford left front looks like installed using brake spring pliers. Notice how shoes are fully seated in the wheel cylinder and backing plate clips with lower adjusting pins rotated to fully retracted position. Shoes are bonded.
Click to expand...
535895
 
When using brake pliers with a pointy end, I will use a rivet if its a good place, or even on a bonded shoe I just stab the point in where it needs to be for good leverage, and then clean up the stab mark with sand paper. Its not gonna hurt anything
 
Below is a picture of the 47 brake shoe return spring it was used from 39-48 front and rear brakes. 91A-2035 is about 6 7/16" OAL
 

Attachments

  • Spring 39-48 91A-2035 brake shoe return.jpg
    Spring 39-48 91A-2035 brake shoe return.jpg
    48.3 KB · Views: 129
Well after pondering it awhile longer, I found the perfect tool!

As soon as I ramp up production, I’ll be selling these in the swap meet section! :)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0992.jpg
    IMG_0992.jpg
    51.9 KB · Views: 104
Vise grips make gouges on the spring which can lead to failure; at least that I was taught.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top