46 ford coil purchase

4

46woodie

Senior Member
Ford V8 stock, runs rough,misses and stalls out. Checked coil, High tension wire to block has bright yellow spark (blue where spark touches block). Voltage at ign is 6.2V, primary side of coil .8ohms ,secondary side is 8800 ohms.
After reading several articles it appears the coil may be bad. I can buy Duralast from Autozone 1 block away for $22. With1 year warranty. Napa is about same price. Any recomendations?
Also,would like to get original style coil later. Anyone rebuild these old styles? Thanks!
 
Last edited:
On my 1948 coupe just put a Napa IC7 coil and bypassed resistor. Had been fighting a hard hot start condition for ages. Starts great now hot. Plus side to coil . Skip Haney is the guy to rebuild an original coil. Don't leave the ignition switch on. Don't ask how I learned that.
 
Thanks,Ill drive over to NAPA. Only thing that baffles me is this starts good hot or cold. Plugs are touled black and sooty after short drive. New carb rebuild and dist rebuilt by Bubba. Soon see.thanks!
 
I hope this is still current. From http://www.fordcollector.com

Here's a tip. Send all the condensers you have, plus a few bucks each, and they'll come back tested. At least that's what I got away with. What would you give for a known good one?

Pack your stuff very well. Cut Skip a break and make it so he can use your package to send your stuff back?

466582



466581
 

Attachments

  • WPSHEET.jpg
    WPSHEET.jpg
    67.3 KB · Views: 215
  • COILSHEET.jpg
    COILSHEET.jpg
    58.2 KB · Views: 216
Last edited:
Changed coil AND condenser and still runs horrible. All plugs black sooty deposit. Idles ok but no power. Misses on all cylinders.
Any ideas why im not firing ,dist rebuilt by Bubba so Im sure thats good. Taking plug wire conduits off today to see if possible bad wires. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
How many ohms should the resistor before the coil be reading and how many volts TO the coil after the resistor should I be getting. Thinking possibly bad resistor. Thanks
 
Check the voltage to the coil. I have found that a worn ignition switch will cause your problems. The contact portion of the switch wears a groove in the bakelite back of the switch preventing the sliding arm of the switch from making a reliable contact. Put a voltmeter between the coil input and a ground and work the switch lever. If you don't get a steady reading, the switch is at fault. C&G (800/266-0470) has the part for your car.
09A-3704. Ford changed the switch in early 1947 due to problems.
 
6.2 volts steady at coil input.what is resistor ohms supposed to read. 6.2 is bat voltage,shouldnt be that at coil with resistor.
 
I may have mentioned this engine starts in a second! Idles ok but runs very rough under load. Do I even suspect bad points,not that old and less than 10mi on them. Reluctant to pull distributor .
 
At the coil via 15 ohms resistor should be showing around 3.5v.
If it starts up ok and your primary and secondary are ok at coil.
It appears to idle fine but ubder load rough.
Could it be on the fuel side? Filter, fuel pump, carb?
How long has it been like this? Sitting a while bad fuel?
Phil NZ
 
THANK YOU FOR THE FEEDBACK. Put 2 rebuilt carbs on by Charle from NY,also fuelpump from Charlie.
I initially thought it was a fuel problem but its not getting ignited in cylinders "black sooty" deposit on plugs. Fuel not that old. This engine was rebuilt several years ago,EVERYTHING new and supposedly up to spec. Only short trips in neighborhood up to now,just finished with restoration,what a disappointment. Would rusty points cause this??? Im still not certain it cant be gas issue. Has 2 fuel filters. Does act starved for gas when driving but turning on electric fuel pump has no effect. Choking causes instant death. Still searching,bet its something simple.
The 3.5V is way off on mine but too much voltage shouldnt cause this,until I burn up points. Thanks
 
46woodie said:
6.2 volts steady at coil input.what is resistor ohms supposed to read. 6.2 is bat voltage,shouldnt be that at coil with resistor.
Click to expand...

You will see full battery voltage at the coil if the engine happened to roll to a stop with the points open. When that happens, just bump the starter to get the points closed.

The resistor should drop voltage at the coil to about 3.0-3.5 volt while engine stopped. Then with engine running, points opening, will jump up to 4 volt or more.
 
Thanks for that info. Ive taken dist,wires and everything out. Dist looked fine,.014 point setting, no pitting or burning on pts. Ive put back on with wires outa conduit. Still etarts great,will drive tomorrow. Going back to fuel problems if trouble still there. Every piececof this ignition has been inspected now,but so has fuel side.
Bad valve job cause these problems??
 
Thanks for all the advice! Am replacing resistor,input coil voltage at 2.5 V. Was mentioned above the resistor was 15ohm,I can only find 40ohm at Macs. This would probably prevent me from getting my 3.0-3.5-coil voltage. Any ideas
 
Last edited:
Stop messing around with the ignition. Put all back to original. Fit the original resistor which should be .5 ohms. That is one half of one ohm , not 15 ohms as mentioned in a previous post. Clean the spark plugs or better still replace them. Seems to me your mixture is too rich. Why two carbs, twice the trouble in my book. Go through the carbs again, float level, power valves, what number main jets are in there ? Regards, Kevin.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top