'46 Coupe Trans Rebuild

[51woodie]

I found part of a gear tooth in the drain plug cavity when I changed the trans oil this summer, so decided to do a rebuild. I purchased Mac's transmission book, which is very helpful to the rebuild job. Working at making a parts list by measuring, counting teeth and identifying parts raised some questions. At some point in it's life, there are indications the trans was rebuilt.
Q1: The countershaft has two broken teeth, and according the measurements and tooth count, it lists as P/N 68-7113-A. the question is that the (1st.) 28T gear measures 0.690 wide, while the gear chart indicates the gear to be 0.725 wide. The matching gear on the main shaft is 0.800 wide. Is 68-7113-A the correct P/N. for the shaft I need?
Q2: There is a thrust washer and a shim at the back end of the countershaft, and there is no shim shown on the drawings. Was this shim used to offset wear on thrust washers 7119 and 7129?
Q3: The mainshaft oil baffle (7080) looks like it broke apart leaving what looks like a shim between the bearing inner race and the shoulder of the mainshaft. Is that what happened?
Q4: The U-joint is tight radially and well lubed, but there is side to side movement of the cross piece, as shown in the attached picture Is that normal?

 

[51woodie]

The answer to Q3 is that the slinger self destructed, and left what looked to me in my inexperience, a shim.
My next question: Should a clutch plate with a thickness of 0.295” be replaced?

 

[51woodie]

I found answer to Q2, they are the two pieces of the rear thrust washer set.
On Q4, a Model A YouTube video I found explains I need a rebuild kit, and how to rebuild.

 

[69a]

It is important to check the gear selector. There is a shuttle pin that prevents you from selecting two gears at the same time.
Test it while off the gearbox. Shift it into either 1st or reverse and then try to select 2nd or 3rd.
This in conjunction with wear in the column selectors can enable you to get two gears at the same time.
I did this myself. Broke the cluster gear, rebuilt the gearbox and a month later it did the same thing.
One of the mechanics at the shop I was working at correctly suspected it maybe the problem, he built the shuttle up with weld. Problem solved!

 

[Juergen]

Your thrust washer and shim are for a late post war cluster. The "butterfly" washer fits in a matching rise at the back of the postwar 51- cluster. If you have a 68- type cluster , it should use a "4 prong" thrust washer. The 68- cluster was narrower than the later/stronger 51- clusters although they would interchange.

 

[rotorwrench]

The 68- cluster is interchangeable with the later 8M-7113 that was a replacement for earlier ones but there are two distinct thrust bearings for each type. Mac VP has kits for either type and they include shims. The cluster has to be held in the proper end play or it becomes ineffective. The shape of the retainer slots or lugs on the back of the cluster dictates which one you have.

I'm not sure what happened to that baffle but it is certainly trashed. The normal baffle has a shallow hat shape to it for proper clearance but the one in the photo isn't shallow any more. The 68-7080 is basically just a slinger ring to keep the inner lube where it's supposed to be, After 1948, the baffle wasn't used in all applications. It all depends on the main shaft involved.

I'm not sure what normal play on the cross to bushing clearance should be but it should have some play in it for better operation near the extreme. In any case, the cross and bushings can be replaced.