46-48 front drum replacement, or??

H

hammondite

Member
I have a 30 Model project estate car.

In working on the front end, it appears that the prior owner had installed aftermarket spindles and 46-48 ford front brake parts on it. One of the drums is badly grooved and needs replaced. I plan on replacing both.

The drum and hub are attached to each other. In reading here and other places I'm not making sense of what it takes to remove the drum from the hub. The pics and guides I've seen show swedged studs that 'notch' into the hub so they don't spin. Mine aren't like that. They have fully rounded heads and the thread goes all the way to the hub surface.

So, I'm not sure how to proceed. Any suggestions are welcome. Pictures attached.
 

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hammondite said:
I have a 30 Model project estate car.

In working on the front end, it appears that the prior owner had installed aftermarket spindles and 46-48 ford front brake parts on it. One of the drums is badly grooved and needs replaced. I plan on replacing both.

The drum and hub are attached to each other. In reading here and other places I'm not making sense of what it takes to remove the drum from the hub. The pics and guides I've seen show swedged studs that 'notch' into the hub so they don't spin. Mine aren't like that. They have fully rounded heads and the thread goes all the way to the hub surface.

So, I'm not sure how to proceed. Any suggestions are welcome. Pictures attached.
Click to expand...
533573


533574
 
First suggestion. Put your general location in your profile. It will help with the second suggestion.

Second suggestion. If you are unable to locate an assembled hub/drum assembly find someone with a very large press that has replaced the studs before and let them do it. Don't let someone learn on your hardware. Ask for recommendations from your local Model A or Early Ford V8 Club. Good luck and welcome.

Note you can also use the pre-war drums with those backing places. Also note that YOU NEED TO RUN SPACERS if you are going to run Model A wire wheels. It just looks like the wheels will bolt right on but don't be fooled . See https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1286293&posted=1#post1286293 for the reason. Also watch for balance weights on the drums that will keep the wheel from seating.

Charlie Stephens
 
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There are 2 different styles, one the drum is outside the hub, the other is like yours, on both kinds the studs are swedged in and just pushing them out will distort the hub.
The drums on the outside are easier to cut swedge because you can cut into the drum and not worry .
Usually takes a press at least 25 tons to set the swedge
Before you do anything check if you can get drums for your style hub
 
Doubt you will be able to find any new drums of that style. There used to be some imported drums around; but they were dubious quality and the thicker cast center made for other problems.

I would either hunt down another good used assembly; either inside or outside drum style will work.

If you prefer to use new drums; Boling Bros makes one that fit the outside drum style hub. They also make new hubs to match. May be the best choice depending on your resources.
 
rich b said:
Doubt you will be able to find any new drums of that style. There used to be some imported drums around; but they were dubious quality and the thicker cast center made for other problems.

I would either hunt down another good used assembly; either inside or outside drum style will work.

If you prefer to use new drums; Boling Bros makes one that fit the outside drum style hub. They also make new hubs to match. May be the best choice depending on your resources.
Click to expand...


As "rich b" advocates above, the Boling Bros. drums and hubs are some of the most impressive quality pieces out there today for Ford restorers. They're not the cheapest parts in town by any means, but the quality and the fit are beyond reproach. They will fit your spindles, and they will function perfectly with your stock backing plates. And our very own "Krylon32" (Gary Mussman) is a dealer for Boling Brothers' products. He offers a 10% discount to all FordBarn members and will have your parts drop-shipped directly to you. You can contact Gary @ Cornhuskers Rod & Custom, 402-749-1932. Or you can PM Krylon32 directly on the F'Barn.

Coop

image20__61769.1542060016.jpg


Click the link BELOW for hubs.

https://www.bolingbrothers.com/1940-ford-style-front-hub/



.
 
Thanks.

I've added my location (thought I'd already done that). I'm on the North Oregon Coast

I gather that these are pre war drums/hubs. And it may be difficult to find replacement drums.

Also, finding someone here that can properly press the studs could be more trouble than it's worth.

If so, then I may be better off with new hubs and drums. Authenticity isn't the issue, as he was building a 50's era hot rod with steel wheels.

Finally, any idea what year these hubs/drums are?
 
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hammondite said:
I gather that these are pre war drums/hubs. And it may be difficult to find replacement drums.

Also, finding someone here that can properly press the studs could be more trouble than it's worth.

If so, then I may be better off with new hubs and drums. Authenticity isn't the issue, as he was building a 50's era hot rod with steel wheels.

Finally, any idea what year these hubs/drums are?
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Your hubs/drums are '42-'48 Ford. They are completely compatible with '37 - '48 backing plates.

Finding the proper replacement drums for this application is essentially impossible today. Then, finding people that ACTUALLY understand and know how to accomplish removing these SWAGED studs properly is almost impossible in itself. First, you must understand what this "SWAGING" consists of and how it physically pertains to the hub's flange. If that swaging is not completely cut away from the stud, when you go to press or hammer that stud out, it WILL bend your flange on your hub!!! Take it from someone that found that out the hard way about fifty-five years ago before I realized what this "swaging" was all about.

The pictures BELOW (thank you Vince Falter) show a stock, UNSWAGED stud in place before the specialized swaging tool presses the material into the countersunk void. Once you realize that there is that whole countersunk void filled with steel material, you should begin to realize why the swage must be fully removed (cut away) before attempting to press a stud back out.


img_4903-jpg.4550125
 
hammondite said:
Thanks.



If so, then I may be better off with new hubs and drums. Authenticity isn't the issue, as he was building a 50's era hot rod with steel wheels.

Finally, any idea what year these hubs/drums are?
Click to expand...

hi hammondite if you whant to sell your old drums im interested ,thanks
 
If you don't have a swage cutter, or you want to reuse the part the swaging is on,
one can use a drill to remove the back of the stud. Then drive the stud out the outside.

Karl
 
Ok, follow-up challenge.

I purchased hubs and drums from Gary Mussman.

There was a minor fit problem with one hub, easily resolved.

I installed everything on Saturday... didn't go well.

When I mounted the wheels, they couldn't spin. I pulled the wheel and the hub and drum spun ok, until I put the lug nuts on. Then it's all bound up on something. I checked the fit of the drums to hubs, they don't fully seat. It's as though something internal is prevent the drum from going all the way on. It doesn't look like the drum is reaching the backing plate, but haven't confirmed that for certain.

To recap the setup:

Factory 46-48 backing plates and brakes
What seems to be Speedway 46-48 spindles
Pete and Jake's aluminum hubs and Boling drums via Gary Mussman.

Any suggestions?
 
I would start out by shimming the drum with washers and putting a couple lug nuts on to see if spins free.

If that works, I would next check to make sure the backing plates are not bent; clamp a wire on the hub flange with a point bent and placed close to the backing plate and and turn the hub to see how the plate looks (I would normally use a dial indicator; but the mag base wouldn't stick in this case).

You can also check the hub flange for run-out by clamping the wire to to the backing plate and spinning the hub.

Could also measure the hub; the face is about 3-1/8" out from the spindle face; probably a little hard to do with the backing plate in place.

Between these checks you should find the problem.
 

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rich b said:
I would start out by shimming the drum with washers and putting a couple lug nuts on to see if spins free.

If that works, I would next check to make sure the backing plates are not bent; clamp a wire on the hub flange with a point bent and placed close to the backing plate and and turn the hub to see how the plate looks (I would normally use a dial indicator; but the mag base wouldn't stick in this case).

You can also check the hub flange for run-out by clamping the wire to to the backing plate and spinning the hub.

Could also measure the hub; the face is about 3-1/8" out from the spindle face; probably a little hard to do with the backing plate in place.

Between these checks you should find the problem.
Click to expand...
536816
 
hammondite said:
Ok, follow-up challenge.

I purchased hubs and drums from Gary Mussman.

There was a minor fit problem with one hub, easily resolved.


To recap the setup:

Factory 46-48 backing plates and brakes
What seems to be Speedway 46-48 spindles
Pete and Jake's aluminum hubs and Boling drums via Gary Mussman.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...


Some of your parts procurement is a little confusing. You say that you've purchased "PETE & JAKES aluminum HUBS from Gary". Why not purchase the Boling Bros. hubs from Gary, as they're engineered to work with the Boling drums as a package?

Coop


.
 
V8COOPMAN said:
Some of your parts procurement is a little confusing. You say that you've purchased "PETE & JAKES aluminum HUBS from Gary". Why not purchase the Boling Bros. hubs from Gary, as they're engineered to work with the Boling drums as a package?

Coop


.
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Maybe things have changed; but a friend tried to buy some Boling Bros hubs; but they were on backorder. While I have never seen or used them; P&J have hubs that are listed as matching early Ford style specs. Possibly why.
 
V8COOPMAN said:
Some of your parts procurement is a little confusing. You say that you've purchased "PETE & JAKES aluminum HUBS from Gary". Why not purchase the Boling Bros. hubs from Gary, as they're engineered to work with the Boling drums as a package?

Coop


.
Click to expand...

That would have been great, but the only ones Boling Brothers has are part of the full brake kit, and they didn't know when they'd get more. Gary recommended the Pete and Jake hubs and uses them as well. I went with his recommendation.
 
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