45B Top Moulding substitute thinktank?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I have several 1930-31 Coupes that are ready for Top Insert Mouldings. With the reproduction Mouldings out of production, has anyone came up with a workable substitute?


Hopefully so, but if not, I am considering exploring the possibility of making a facsimile using some 6061 Aluminum Flatbar (-0.125 X 0.750w) and anneal it to make the corner bend. Then just set-up to drill holes evenly spaced on 2" centers (???) to attach it into the Wood. Probably use a ¼" carbide round-over Router tool to soften the 2 topside corners. I can only get 90" bars easily delivered, so I likely will need to weld the two halves in the center after it is bent.

So next I am undecided on how to attach it. One part of me says I can make where I can install 1" long Roof Moulding Nails that the vendors sell, but maybe countersinking some #6 brass screws would be more secure?

My reasoning for the aluminum trim vs. just using to Hidem is the aluminum will likely clamp the top material into place better when trailering a car at interstate speeds. And, although the aluminum flatbar won't look aesthetically correct, it likely shouldn't be that obvious to the average onlooker.

Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on this??

 

[30Murray]

If it's what I think you need (A47301F in my old Mac's catalogue), how about this: take some thinwall aluminum tubing, run it through some rollers to squish it almost flat, then cut a slit down the middle of the top side. Drill and nail as needed then close up the seam like you would with the regular moulding. I haven't done this myself, but just a thought.

 

[ronn]

Brent your idea sounds solid. I would go with the screws over the nails for longevity.
Why not keep it functional if it isnt going to be to judging standards?

 

[Bob Bidonde]

Why not use an annealed steel extrusion with a 1/4 round shape? It will be easier to bend than the aluminum.

 

[rotorwrench]

Aluminum aircraft low pressure tube is 3003-O aluminum and the medium pressure tube is the 5052-O alloy, both of which are annealed for easy forming. Aircraft aluminum tube bends around larger radius pretty easy without kinking it. If set up on a band saw with a V-trough as a guide, it could be cut in two pieces for a half round. Both types are available in 1/16" size increments well above the size of a basic half round. 6061-O tubing is also available but the sizes are more limited and generally larger diameter. 6061 rod stock is also available and in 1/16" diameter increments but may take a bit more time to cut or machine. All of these alloys are weldable so a person could make parts in sections. Aircraft spruce carries all of this stuff. All but the soft 3003 alloy are in available 6' straight lengths for shipping. The soft 3003 is in coils so it would have to be straightened to do any modifications to it.

For a lower profile half round, a person could get a larger diameter size than needed then cut it off centerline to get the needed width with a lower profile. I've never tried that but I'm sure it could be done. A person would likely need a receiver guide on the other side of the band saw blade to stabilize the cut. It could tricky.

McMaster-Carr has 6061 half round but it's on a round profile so may need work to get a lower profile. Restoration Supply Co still shows half oval low profile brass or aluminum stock in various widths and in fairly long lengths. I'm not sure the width you need. 5/8" is one size that seemed to be common if I remember correctly.

 

[duke36]

Go to MC Master- Carr, Orange Aluminum or Extruda trim and select a molding to match original as close as possible. Make a jig and heat the material to help push it around the corners while trying to maintain the flattened profile or make a bender as shown.
We've used stainless steel nails to secure the molding imbedded in butyl sealant. then paint black. Or use your own attachment technique.
Just saw Rotor wrench reply, yes 5/8" is a good size if available.
I guess United Pacific doesn't offer the moldings currently ?

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

All seem like great ideas.

Just think quickly, expounding on Kerby's idea of the aluminum tubing, I could probably clamp the tubing on the Bridgeport and use a slitting saw to open it. Then maybe use the Pullmax to create the flat bottom and 90° bends at the bottom on both sides??

The one thing I wanted to do is have the flat bar be rigid enough to help pinch the top fabric against the sheetmetal. I will have seam sealant underneath, but I also want to keep it all from potentially having a leak, especially if the top is subjected to high winds on the freeway or interstate. Doing as Ronn said, having screws should definitely be solid.