45% Vinegar

PeteVS

Well-known member
I was asking a professional restorer about cleaning out a rusty gas tank. He suggested using 45% Vinegar. (You can find it on Amazon for various prices.) Does anyone here have experience or comments?
Thanks!!
 
Had no idea regarding the vinegar.

Ten+ years ago = my '36 half-ton: a radiator-cleaning business, rodded the radiator thoroughly. Then professionally ''halved the gas tank, exactly as the two halves were brand new. The tank halves were gleaming inside and out. Then exact-welded the halves as they were originally. Painted the tank and the radiator.

I'd do the tank on this '33 the same way but, disappointingly, the previous owner mentioned he 'put in' a new tank. The ONLY part 'n piece of the car that is not '33.
 
A 45% vinegar product sounds pretty acidic. I'm not doubting the expert's opinion, but I'd be curious of using a product like Evaporust vs. something with that much acid.

I've cleaned parts with store bought 5% vinegar and found it to be pretty aggressive.

Home Depot sells a 12% vinegar. Maybe start with that strength first? I dunno know. Just a suggestion.

Is there still old gummy, stale gas in the tank you are cleaning? If so, I can see how the acidic product would be a better choice then.
 
Pete,
Getting my electrolysis tank set up to clean some castings, sheet metal, and stampings for a summer tractor project.
I use Arm&Hammer washing soda for the mix into water. Have us d electrolysis many times to clean parts. I did one tractor gas tank. You need to submerg the tank in the he solution and have a anode inside the tank, not touching the tank.
Regards,
Chris and Cheryl
 
I used the electrolysis method on my 40 gas tank. Worked great! It’s not fast but effective.
 

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I used grocery store vinegar to clean my engine block and it worked fine.
Left it out in the sun and it warmed up and over flowed in 80 degree weather.
 
First thing is to remove the beer botltle caps from inside the tank. My dad bought this '32 roadster and drove it that way. Who knows how many years those were in there. Then he let it sit for at least 15-years years and the gas tuned to varnish. It wouldn't make it to the end of the driveway without plugging the fuel line.

I fill the tanks partly with sand blasting sand. I take the tip off a blow gun and replace it with a bendable steel brake line. Stick it in the tank and move it around. The ricocheting sand gets it clean top and bottom. It helps to rotate the tank. It's one heck of a mess and the fumes that keep coming out will just about kill you. That's not sand coming out in the photo but dried varnished powdered gas and it probably has lead in it. I run a bore scope camera down in there behind the baffles and it's as clean as it can be. If I've missed a spot, I bend the metal line, so it aims in that area and go at it some more. It takes a whole day to do it but its bare metal clean when I'm done. You absolutely must wear a charcoal respirator, or the fumes will make you sick. Absolutely not worth it if you have access to chemical dipping place but if not, it can be done this way at home. I'm on 11 acres, I could not get away doing this in a tract home. These sand blasting days are when I really consider looking for a new hobby.

I use Tractor Supply's' Diamond Black blast media. It's coal slag with sharp edges. They have the cheapest blasting media I have found near me. I bought a Nidage wireless endoscope that works with your smart phone. For as cheap as this tool was it works really well for inspecting the inside on the tank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1FFWppknTc
 

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I recently used Rust 911 in my ‘50 block and on some other parts. Seemed to work well. If you search Tubman’s threads, he has a more in-depth write up.......Mark
 
There are many ways to accomplish this, my way was first a gallon of acetone to dissolve the varnish then a gallon of muratic acid to derust followed by a gallon of metal prep which contains phosphoric acid and prevents flash rust. Rinse well between and neutralize the muratic with baking soda. The acid can be saved to use on other things.
 
I use Muratic acid from the hardware store and go to car wash at 5am it’s nasty but quick and does a great job. Then neutralize with baking soda. Now ready for coating process.
 
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