40 Steering Box

Ken/Alabama

Well-known member
This has probably been covered before but here goes anyway. Anyone have any experience with the new worm and roller available for the steering box? My real question is what is the procedure for replacing the worm on the shaft ?? I’ve never seen any literature on this procedure. I know Ford supplied the worm and shaft as a unit.
 
Just darn (I cleaned that up a tad for fear of getting severely chastised), it's a shame Harold (Putt) Smith is no longer amongst us. He swapped out new worms many times. I watched but I wouldn't undertake that task myself. If you knew Putt, you know he undertook everything like he was killin' snakes. Again, darn, I miss that guy.
 
Just darn (I cleaned that up a tad for fear of getting severely chastised), it's a shame Harold (Putt) Smith is no longer amongst us. He swapped out new worms many times. I watched but I wouldn't undertake that task myself. If you knew Putt, you know he undertook everything like he was killin' snakes. Again, darn, I miss that guy.

Yes I knew him. Went to his place a couple times.Every time someone like him Dies it’s like a library burns down. All that information gone !
 
There are some posts here that explain the procedure for pressing the worm gears off and on the inner steering shaft. Neal in Cal posted one, and I made a post on this as well, using some of Neal's pictures. You might find them in the archives.
 
I replaced the 13:1 worm with a 15:1 a couple of years ago on my 32. I have a 20 ton HF press which I modified to accommodate the length of the shaft. Taking it off was easy using split collars that were snug, not tight and placed underneath the 13:1 worm. I found a socket that would push on the shaft but not the worm.

Putting the new worm on was difficult. I heated the worm to 500° in my oven for an hour or so and chilled the shaft receiving end in a bucket of ice cubes and water. I quickly put the shaft with the split collars already on and as tight as I could, in my press, then grabbed the worm from the oven placed it on top of the shaft and started pumping the press cylinder. The first part went pretty well but I had to move and retighten the split collars a few times since they would slip on the shaft. I thought at the time that I should have put a couple of tack welds on the shaft to keep the split collars from sliding. I would do that the next time.

Here are JM's post and Neal's on this. Also check cas3's posts below JM's

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215074&highlight=worm+gear+Neal


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=263583&postcount=6

499667

499668

499669
 
Last edited:
Glennpm, thank you for going into the archived files and finding these old posts. These posts/old threads, are exactly what I was suggesting that folks refer back to for help on this subject.
 
I wonder if you can install a 1947 Ford steering box parts in a 1940 steering box?

Anyone know?

I ask because I have a complete 1947 Ford steering box with column and would like to know if the innards (or box) are interchangeable. Plus, it might help Ken to know.

Thanks, JIM
 
I wonder if you can install a 1947 Ford steering box parts in a 1940 steering box?

Anyone know?

I ask because I have a complete 1947 Ford steering box with column and would like to know if the innards (or box) are interchangeable. Plus, it might help Ken to know.

Thanks, JIM


Jim....As far as I know (for WHATEVER that is worth), I THOUGHT that the guts were the same '40 - '48. This DOES NOT necessarily apply to the lengths of shaft and outer column tube. '37 - '39 parts are similar also, ECXEPT for the headlight switch adaptables for those years.

Coop

.
 
I believe you could put the later worm on the 40 shaft. The shaft itself is different length and the collar that the locking mechanism engages with is in a different spot. Also, it is important to get the worm onto the same place on the shaft or your steering wheel spokes could be vertical instead of horizontal when wheels are straight ahead.
 
Here's how I do it Ken. Stole the Idea from the Lecy garage. To pull it off, you need a chunk of thick plate with a hole in it so the shaft fits thru the hole. Then, I made the tool for the puller to push on That will fit thru the bore of the worm, and It needs a slot cut, ground, milled, what ever to clear the key on the worm. I painted the key yellow in the pic. Then, to pull it back on simply line up the key, then clamp on the aluminum block , and clamp the big puller on the block and pull it on. Easy-peasy. I made the aluminum block, about 2" thick, and drill the hole one size smaller than the shaft, then cut it in half. There are very slight splines on the shaft to line up also. Thats an NOS shaft in the photo. I have an old worm gear here that I have seen every day for a couple years, and now I can't find it ! But, you can see the operation with out it. Perhaps in my obituary it will mention stepping on a worm gear and falling to my death? Also, I have a big press, but the shafts are too long, and this works great, I've done several.
Well shoot, The new pics disappeared, but I found these old pics on file. No yellow key way, but you'll figger it out
 

Attachments

  • 804E66E1-3D38-4865-AFDD-1CE3A673965E.jpeg
    804E66E1-3D38-4865-AFDD-1CE3A673965E.jpeg
    114.3 KB · Views: 72
  • 7CEA70D2-037F-4956-AA23-A2457C0FCB28.jpeg
    7CEA70D2-037F-4956-AA23-A2457C0FCB28.jpeg
    120.4 KB · Views: 63
Last edited:
Yeah you need a press ,there many and varied ways of doing it, you can use Collars or clamps but you run the risk of squashing
the pipe ,Usually the worms have the Key way on the opposite side to the top woodruff key .,Most shops here have there own presses and they are taught how to use them in trade school. The first time a I got familiar with a worm and roller was in 1972 only because I was A framing a 1935 Ford 900 miles with that cranky old box .the car was sliding the tow car around the switch made sense .
 
Back
Top