'40 steering box in a '36 problems

36tudordeluxe

36tudordeluxe

Well-known member
I have a '40 steering box and mounting bracket in my '36 with a '36 pitman arm. I have replaced the sector shaft with one that is supposedly NOS shaft. The worm gear appears to be in vey good condition. I only have 4 3/8 turn lock to lock and am suppose to have 4 1/2 turns; is that in itself a serious problem? Also, never was able to detect a "high spot or point of resistance" in the neutral position. Have tried various settings with the adjusting screw to no avail. When turning the wheel left to the lock position it hits lock and will not go any further, whereas to the right it hits stop and then goes 1/8- 1/4 turn further to actual lock. Have been told that I should be able to go past initial lock in both directions. Have yet to test drive car (ignition problems) after latest adjustment but previously to go straight the steering wheel has to be turned about 90° to the right. During assembly is it possible the sector shaft orientation to worm gear was not correct? When I installed the shaft I gave no thought to orientation. At 2 1/8 turns approximately the Woodruff key is at the 6 o'clock position and wheels are straight forward.
 
I will try until a better answer is posted. Yes, you have to get the keyway oriented so the wheel is positioned correctly. There is a key in the worm gear. It will either be up or down from the steering key. Center the box as well as you can and mark the shaft. It will be close then. I used a tube to splice the shaft. It is too hard to butt weld and not get slag inside.
You can not get the box assembled wrong.
If you have the worm shimmed correctly and can't get a high spot. the box is worn.
An easy tell tale is how much the adjuster is screwed in. A good box will have a 1/4" thread showing above the nut. If it is flush, it is worn out.
 
Andy said:
I will try until a better answer is posted. Yes, you have to get the keyway oriented so the wheel is positioned correctly. There is a key in the worm gear. It will either be up or down from the steering key. Center the box as well as you can and mark the shaft. It will be close then. I used a tube to splice the shaft. It is too hard to butt weld and not get slag inside.
You can not get the box assembled wrong.
If you have the worm shimmed correctly and can't get a high spot. the box is worn.
An easy tell tale is how much the adjuster is screwed in. A good box will have a 1/4" thread showing above the nut. If it is flush, it is worn out.
Click to expand...

I am not sure what you mean by the "box is worn out"? How is that possible? Could it be that the box is warped near the adjuster screw? I also have a situation where the adjuster screw is screwed in "below" flush and there is still play in the steering wheel! The gears look good but I never thought about the box being worn?? Please explain.
 
I suppose it is theoretically possible for the box to be worn, but to get the box "worn out" one would have to have worn completely through hard bearings IMHO.
 
I am sorry I was not very clear about the worn out bit. I ment that the worm may infact be excessivly worn even though it appears OK. The lack of a tight spot in the center indicates this. The amount on threads showing on the adjuster is a good indictor of how much the gears are worn.
Adjusting the drag link should get the wheel centered and even the wheel turning. The pitman arm should be straight ahead. Perhaps the new box has different offset so the pitman shaft has been offset.
 
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