40 rims and radials?

Talkwrench

Talkwrench

Well-known member
I have original '40' rims the ones that have 3 rivets on each section [4] that hold the inner to outer band, are they ok to run [tubeless] radial tyres on, they dont leak through those rivets at all?
 
Talkwrench said:
I have original '40' rims the ones that have 3 rivets on each section [4] that hold the inner to outer band, are they ok to run [tubeless] radial tyres on, they dont leak through those rivets at all?
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Mine work great with no leaks. Varying opinions on modern "safety bead" wheels vs old wheels of course. :rolleyes:


Terry
 
I bought Coker's for my standard '40 about 10 years ago. I started out tubeless, but then all of a sudden started losing air in a couple of them. I bought radial tubes to match and never had another problem. My 2¢

Mike
 
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We've run these '40 and '48 4" and 4-1/2" Ford wheels for some time now with Excelsior Stahl radial tires and no tubes. Before doing anything we bead blasted the wheels. At every one of the 12 rivets holding the centers to the hoops, we smeared a thin layer of J B Weld just to make certain there COULD be NO LEAKS! Several years now and NO LEAKS!

Coop

515672
 
Coincidence. Just got back from the tire shop to fix a flat tire. Took my stock 41 wheel with a Diamondback radial and inner tube in. Provided the shop a new inner tube. The shop was recommended to me independently by three different people. There was a hole in the old inner tube (with less than 25 miles.) The shop couldn't find a reason for the hole and neither could I. I personally examined the inside of the tire very carefully. With a new inner tube the tire leaked between the wheel hole and valve stem indicating to me that the new inner tube was bad too. Haven't had a chance to test the newest inner tube yet. The shop suggested mounting without a tube. That's what we did.



Had a problem with the shop that I posted elsewhere. To their credit they addressed it. I didn't accuse them of messing up this time; just said i didn't know but was concerned. We were all polite. Tried to pay them for fixing a flat that I did not see as their fault. They wouldn't take my money, they said they don't charge for fixing flats. Hope we're still on good terms and they don't 'blacklist' me.


Getting really frustrated having had trouble-free service with my 22 year old tires but two flats in a week on my new $1500 set of radials but hopefully the tubeless solution works. After an hour with no load the pressure's holding. Got my fingers crossed.
 
Hope this was just a coincident that you had two bad tubes.

Are you using "radial tubes"? They are heavier gauge, to stand up to the flexing of a radial tire. I had DiamondBack include those in the tire order, and no leak in 6 years. Tractor supply stores also carry heavy duty tubes.
 
JayChicago said:
Hope this was just a coincident that you had two bad tubes.

Are you using "radial tubes"? They are heavier gauge, to stand up to the flexing of a radial tire. I had DiamondBack include those in the tire order, and no leak in 6 years. Tractor supply stores also carry heavy duty tubes.
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The tubes on the four good tires came from Diamondback with the order.


The tubes on the problem tire are radial tubes from Amazon, clearly labeled on the packages. Here's a picture of the flat tire tube. You can see an oval in the middle of the picture. It's a cut in the tube that leaks. No idea how or when it got there. No explanation from careful examination of the inside of the tire. Haven't looked at the second tube yet. I'm done with this game for today.


picture.php
 
Several years I had an experience with Excelsior radials with Radial tubes. I didn't do a good job of inspecting the inside of the tire. Inside of both 750/16 tires were little white patches less than one inch square. These patches were abrasive enough to over time wear a weak spot in the tube which failed. Now I check the inside of every tire.
 
I have had 4 failed overseas tubes this year alone. Usually at the valve stem area. I took to applying a large round patch with a hole in the center to the replacement tubes, just in case.... A few weeks ago I went to great lengths to obtain four new 16" one piece wheels for my 'foyota' as the only 16s commonly available are toyota's 'non USA' split rims. I have also gone tubless radials with the '47 stock wheels on the woodie. So far, so good. I recomend tubeless.
 
I have also run tubeless on several sets of old Ford wheels. The key in my experience is to make sure the wheel is strong (no heavy rust), clean (I either sand blast or wire wheel the inside), and painted. I have even run the 36-38 wheels without tubes and there are a lot of rivets in those.
 
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