40 Ford Juice brake performance

I could see the wear on the shoes and it looked like they were making good contact through out the whole shoe. When I checked them last week it was more of a base line on where I was at. I have had the fronts off before, but I got a puller and was able to get the rears off. Everything looked great. Dry, clean, good seals and so on. This was the first time I went through the adjustment procedure and I believe they were actually pretty close. There was some normal glazing on the drums, but no leaks or grease that would effect the performance. I guess my thought was to take off just enough to give it a new texture and then sand the linings and bed the shoes in from there. It depends on where my drums are now measurement wise. What is the max dia. of the drums?
 
randy993 said:
what's special about the drums as far as turning them on a brake lathe?
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The drums and hubs are an assembly and require that you turn them as an assembly using a special adapter for the rear. It is been so long that I can't remember for sure about the fronts.

Charlie Stephens
 
If you have the small mandrel like the Drum Doktor (that how its spelled) you can turn the rear drums.

Modern Ammco ect lathes the mandrel too big. But they will fit the fronts.

If the pedal isnt pulsating and the drums are not over sized I would not turn them. Good original drums are getting harder to find
 
For what it's worth, I remember (years ago) reading in one of the Ford manuals that OEM 1940 ford car brake linings were .18 in. thick. Does anyone else remember?
 
Yes, my reference, says .187 but, the new linings were probably .050 thicker, to allow arcing for oversize drums.

Here is the tool that was used to set the anchor and upper cam adjustments.

Anyone still have one laying around?

Frank
 

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