'40 ford interior question(s)

[V8 Bob]

I'm finally (after 55 years) getting close to for the (professional) interior installation on my '60s style '40 coupe. I originally thought I could install the dash temporarily in place for the interior work, and then remove it for easier wiring/heater/wiper installations, but the more I learn from this forum I realize that may not be possible or practical. So, what is the normal order for dash, interior and glass installation? This will be a custom interior but using stock '40 seat, arm rests, handles, roof bows etc. just with modern material, so it doesn't have to be exactly original. I appreciate any and all advice.

Bob

 

[Kube]

Bob, with a coupe, I'd suggest the dash be in prior to the head liner installation. Leave the rear windshields out as well as the quarter windows. Also, leave the package tray out.
the front windshields can be installed prior to the headliner as they won't interfere. I find it easier to install the headliner and then the front windshields. I suppose six one way and a half dozen the other.
Regardless of which order you choose with the front windshields, the windshield moldings must be removed to install the headliner.

Once the headliner is installed I'd suggest you complete the package tray installation. After that, install the side panels. Then you can install the cowl kick panels and the respective retainer strips.

Doors: Glass can be in and probably should be so you are 100% certain the regulators work properly. The wing window / window molding assembly must be out in order to install the door panels.

Once you install the seat, at that time you finish trimming the rear parcel shelf to seat area.

When you get in the thick of this project and IF you run in to any questions, reach ut to me - I'll help ya

 

[19Fordy]

Follow "Kubes" advice and help offer. He's the 40 man. Also:

1. Make sure to have nice crisp 45 degree miters on door wind lace corners.

2. Don't forget special welting that runs along top edge of dash.

3.Fold a piece of cloth electrical tape over top flange of dash (like the factory did)
to prevent squeaks.

4. Give your upholster pro your visors so he can allow enough material stretch of the headliner for a proper fit above top of windshield, other wise you could come up short
(Ask me how I know.)

5. When I was all done I sprayed interior and seat with stain water/stain repellant you can buy at Home depot. I can't recall the name. This stuff.
https://www.scotchgard.com/3M/en_US...rotector/?N=4340+3294466427+3294529207&rt=rudd

6. Don't forget to run the wire for your dome light and switch BEFORE doing upholstery.

Please post photos when it's finished.

 

[TJ]

In addition to all the good advice already given, be sure to put in new tack strip material wherever needed. By now the old original is dried out or broken and does not hold tacks or staples for any length of time. There's nothing more irritating than to put in windlace or other trim and have it start coming loose after the car has been used for awhile. Also clean the headliner bows(sand off any rust or debris) and then spray paint the bows so they will not rust. Lastly keep your hands as clean as you can as that headliner material and other pieces of cloth are a magnet for any dirt on your hands when installing.

 

[19Fordy]

TJ's suggestions are "golden", especially the tack strips. I painted mine with varnish before I installed them.

Also, I didn't do it but, I guess it might be a good idea to install a plastic vapor barrier to backside of the door panels. Is this recommended?

 

[Kube]

TJ's suggestions are "golden", especially the tack strips. I painted mine with varnish before I installed them.

Also, I didn't do it but, I guess it might be a good idea to install a plastic vapor barrier to backside of the door panels. Is this recommended?

I sure do - every time.
As these cars will never see rain, they may experience moisture. I'd rather it stayed away from the back of the door panels.

 

[TJ]

I have also installed the vapor barrier, Those big plastic bags that LB used to use to pack the panes worked good for that purpose. In today's world they call the "repurposing".

 

[V8 Bob]

I really want to thank you (Kube, 19Fordy, TJ) for your input. I did a search and found a 2019 thread titled "1940 front tack under dash" that provided more needed interior info and pictures. There are probably more if I type in the correct key words. Anyway, you guys answered my main questions, so thanks again.! I may hit you up for more info later in the build.

 

[Annixter]

Also, I didn't do it but, I guess it might be a good idea to install a plastic vapor barrier to backside of the door panels. Is this recommended?

My first post on the forum, so thanks for having me. I don't fool around with door panel vapor barriers anymore. Rather than using classic materials prone to moisture damage for door panels, I use 1/8" ABS black plastic sheet. I source it from a local plastics supplier for $60 a 4' x 8' sheet. Make a pattern, cut out the ABS using a utility knife and tin snips around corners, and drill out holes for clips, handles, etc. I use the standard metal prong fasteners to hold the panels in place.



There's a few excellent reasons to go with ABS:

1. No more warping or other fabric damage due to moisture.
2. The ABS is pretty well indestructible as far as removing the panel goes, whereas classic materials (dense cardboard, wood fiber board, or plywood) will eventually have the mounting holes torn out after multiple removals.
3. ABS sheet is lighter than most classic materials--especially fiber board--and thus easier on the door hinges.
4. You can tear off the old fabric and reupholster as many times as you want without damaging the ABS, so it's good if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long time and might need to reupholster in the future. Classic materials delaminate when removing glued fabric and lose their strength/structure.
5. It eliminates unsightly fabric seams on many pre-1950 Fords. Often, there is a horizontal fabric seam where the pillars rise out of the door. Using a single sheet of ABS allows one to continue the fabric without a seam, which looks (while not "factory") far better than Ford's designers could manage with the materials they had.
6. No more fussing with putty and poly sheet if you need to get up in the door to work on the regulator or latch.
7. I find the ABS sheet easier to work with than fiber board or plywood (and I'm a carpenter). Score long runs with a sharp razor and snap, even around bends/corners, or cut tight radii with tin snips as easy as 26 gauge sheet metal. No dust, no saber saw.

There's a potential drawback:
If you live in a very hot climate where the car will sit outside in the sun for long periods of time, ABS sheet can warp when introduced to constant interior temperatures over approx. 145F. I haven't had this issue in the Denver region, and we see a week or two of high 90s in the summer and pretty standard high 80s/low 90s for two months. I have wondered if going with a 3/16" or even 1/4" ABS sheet would help with the warping but don't have the need to experiment.


Food for thought.

 

[19Fordy]

Thanks for the food. Sounds edible. Keep in mind:

If you door panel is too thick you won't be able to install door handles.

 

[Annixter]

I painted [my tack strips] with varnish before I installed them.

What material are people using for the headliner tack strips?



I'll be reupholstering the headliner in my '40 coupe and have heard different recommendations. Some say the aftermarket rubber tack strips don't hold staples well. Some say to use poplar strips, others say Masonite.

 

[TJ]

For tack strips I have used the materials sold by Drake or other vendors. It holds staples and tacks just fine. it is not a hard plastic and actually quite flexible. I pop rivet it into place. Before it came on the market I used strips of 1/4" plywood that were cut to fit where needed. I would not use Masonite. I bought an inexpensive air stapler from Harbor Freight for $22. Well worth the money.

 

[19Fordy]

I used original style cardboard tack strips from
https://www.restorationspecialties.com/Online-Shopping_ep_41.html

Look on page 117 of their catalogue.

My thinking was that the original cardboard style had already lasted 48 years when I redid the interior in 1988 so, using the same style would outlive me. I varnished it to make it waterproof. 32 years later it's still holding up just fine. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[5851a]

If you are going to use the vapor barrier I've found that the carpet protection plastic works. Find it in the DIY centers by the carpet, it's like a huge piece of adhesive tape. They use it in display homes etc.

 

[Annixter]

Thanks, TJ and 19Fordy. Seems much easier than ripping up a bunch of 1x poplar

 

[JSeery]

.

Totally off topic, I lived in Morrison for a short time period when I was young (2nd grade). We attended school in a one-room school house, grades 1st through 6th. It was a neat place, the merchants on the main street had the kids paint pictures on their windows for the different holidays! Also lived in Golden for a while, 3rd grade.

 

[Kube]

What material are people using for the headliner tack strips?



I'll be reupholstering the headliner in my '40 coupe and have heard different recommendations. Some say the aftermarket rubber tack strips don't hold staples well. Some say to use poplar strips, others say Masonite.

I've always used the stuff sold by Lebaron-Bonney. It's a dense plastic type material - it may even be Teflon®. Holds the staples very well - so well in fact, they're difficult to remove. Came in many sizes.
I would think places like C&G would sell it...

 

[TJ]

Mike, the stuff sold by LB was great material, but I never found anyone else that carried it.
I suspect it was made only for or by LB.

 

[big job]

I try to get all of this in my head: the horrors and the pains for just one install. so how
in hell did they boot all those cars out the door in a day ? I know it was more than one
person, but one done every 5 minutes I just can not swallow that, but they did. ???

 

[19Fordy]

big job: I suppose if you do the same assembly operation day after day, month after month for years it becomes an autonomic function, like breathing.