40 distributor, plug wire, missing problem

L78CHEVELLE

L78CHEVELLE

Senior Member
I converted my '40 helmet distributor over to point less ignition with the Flathead Doctor on the west coast. I installed the distributor with new plug wires. Engine ran for 15 minutes with no problem. Started to miss and the miss got worse the longer it went. Sent it back to the Flathead Doctor and he could find nothing wrong. I changed plug wires with another new set and put the distributor back on the car. No miss until about 15 minutes of driving and now the miss is getting worse. I'm using the original color code plug wires that were original to this car. Called the plug wire people and they said the plug wires I have should be good to go with the point less ignition. Any body know something that would explain this problem or help me understand what is happening?
 
Do you have the correct voltage to the distributor and the proper coil? It sounds like something is heating up and causing the failure.
 
New coil from Skip. With the point less distributor conversion you take the resistor off the car and use the entire 6 volts. I have 6.24 volts at the distributor which is good as far as I know.
 
I'm pretty sure Skip's coils are meant to run with a resistor. Maybe G.M. will chime in, but I think 6 volts is too much for that coil.
 
FWIW, I had one of the Flathead Dr. Pertronix conversions with an unresisted 6v coil that they provided. I sent them a Skip's coil with the distributor, but they recommended I use one of theirs. The setup ran great for about five years and then died without warning. Have since reverted to points with a Skip's coil and find that the car runs just as well. Have no complaints with the FH Dr. product, but like they say, "Points will get you home."
 
I think I will install a stock resistor on the top of the stock coil where the wire runs up from the distributor to the coil and see what happens. I like the stock distributor with the two sets of points also. I drive my car daily and thought the modern distributor would be a better shot for me. No condensor on the new set up is another advantage I thought. This missing problem and changing all these parts is taking away the joy of my car.
 
Not sure that is the way to go. I would think that you would have to get one of those kits that mount in place of the coil and allow the use of a remote coil - one that is compatable with your system.
 
I used one of the conversion kits and it worked when I had a problem. It even worked better when using a NAPA condenser. The guys here told me to have Skip Haney rebuild my original coil and use the NAPA cond. it works perfect. I still have the kit if your interested in it.
 
Im betting the new electronic will not work with a new "Skip" coil. If your plug wires worked before, no reason to think they wont work now. Calling Bubba, come in Bubba!!!
 
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We dont ( for a example) do any 6 volt electronic distributors.

There is a number of issues , the biggest one being the actual threshold of operation for the control module. The voltage levels on a 6 volt is smaller than the 12 volt would be. So the slightest drop or change in voltage would cause a problem in operation of the unit.

Solid core wires and a generator only add to the issues.

I understand the desire to want electronics for your car , but my suggestion would be to have a properly set up distributor and it should run a long time.
The helmets ( and crabs) are one of the best Ford ever made .:eek:
 
I run on Pertronix set up on my '47. I do not use solid core wires and also use a Pertronix coil with no resistor. I also added a ground wire to the body of the distributor and that really helped.
 
Don-wi I need to ask what do you mean by solid core wires? What do you ground the wire to that you run to the distributor?
 
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