#4 Piston Removal

lalkie

Member
I have a 38 ford with a bad wrist pin in #4. Is it possible to remove the piston from the bottom so I don't have to take off the head? The engine was rebuilt about 2-years ago and runs fine with the exception of #4. Compression is good and plugs clean. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry
 
i drove an old 77 white truck for ten years with a knock that had been going on for years before i got in it, thought to be a wrist pin. cummins 250 diesel, probably 100k miles of knocking and still ran fine when they sold it. just a fun story, but i agree with the others-take the head off and see for sure whats going on
 
Pulling a head is a way lot easier than pulling a crankshaft. You can short cut some things but engine bottom end work, not so much. If the cylinder is damaged then it will get even more complicated.
 
Even if it could come out from the bottom it won't be going in easy from the bottom.
I once reconditioned a rod for an MG or Triumph, I forget by getting the piston low enough to remove the wrist pin. Needed a special pair of snap ring pliers. There was not ebough room to get the piston past the webbing.
 
Looks like it will come out from the top. I was just trying to look at all options. Experience tells me it is a wrist pin. It has had the noise for quite a while and never gets any worse. It does not sound like piston slap as I have had an engine with that problem. Thanks for the responses. Larry
 
I have a 38 ford with a bad wrist pin in #4. Is it possible to remove the piston from the bottom so I don't have to take off the head? The engine was rebuilt about 2-years ago and runs fine with the exception of #4. Compression is good and plugs clean. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry

In the words of an old philosopher (me). "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".
 
Ditto Ron. What is the basis for your diagnosis? Valve noise can be mistaken for wrist pin. Check the valve clearance on #4 before you tear it down.
 
sdI have been using the "if it ain't broke don't fix it for a few years" and it may last a few more years. Thanks for the responses. Larry
 
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

I bought a running '57 Ranchero with a 292 back in the 70's. It had a little light tap in the top end. I ran the engine for quite a while. Then one day I was driving about 65 mph and suddenly I heard "th-th-th-BANG". I mashed the clutch, looked in the rear view mirror, and saw oil in the road behind me. The rod had broken below the piston and wiped out the block. I could wiggle the rod stub on the piston pin when I tore it down. My theory was that the bushing wasn't level on the pin and was causing the rod to bend slightly with every stroke, resulting in fatigue/failure.
 
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