4 down 44 to go

[corvette8n]

I'm trying to strip a '40 block down so I can fit it into my 55 gal. drum for derusting. My regimen so far:
1. Chase the fine threads on the studs.
2. Scribe a line on the stud and block.
3. Heat the stud as hot as I can get it with a propane torch.
4. Apply candle wax.
5. Double nut the stud.
6. Using a long box wrench I pound on the end of the wrench with a heavy rubber hammer, apply PB Blaster as needed.

20 minutes of this routine and the stud is out.

Block will not fit in my drum with the studs in. I work on it an hour or so a day, just think in less than two weeks I'll be done.

 

[edhd58]

what will you use in the drum?

 

[corvette8n]

what will you use in the drum?

I ordered 10lbs. of powdered citric acid, I will mix it to Tubmans recipe of 1lb per 5 gallons of water, for less than 20 bucks, I'll keep the barn posted on how well it works.

 

[19Fordy]

Make sure you don't dissolve any of the metals that hold front and rear main seals, if any.

 

[v8nut]

You might consider "Rust 911". I have found it works really well.

 

[r_reed]

i'd be looking for a bigger drum after that experience.

 

[Jack E/NJ]

corvette8n>>> citric acid, I will mix it to Tubmans recipe of 1lb per 5 gallons of water, for less than 20 bucks>>>

Yeah, but for more than 200 bucks you could get something with a much derustier-sounding name than citric acid. 8^) Jack E/NJ

 

[johncusano]

I would think it better to heat the block where the stud goes in,not the stud. Replaced all mine in the winter. Just saying.

 

[Zeke3]

I just removed all the studs for a 21 stud block. I used a collet style tool to grab the stud. The technique that worked for me in most cases was to work the stud back and forth, very gently, until I felt the stud start to move. I used Deep Creep as a lubricant and would spray more on and continue to work the stud back and forth until I could feel it moving at least a 1/4 turn.

I did break #41 off because I got overconfident and wasn't paying enough attention to the feel. You can't turn those things too far before they pop right off. I am going to leave the remains of that stud for the machine shop to deal with. #42 required a couple of heatings with the acetylene torch and more penetrant to work it loose. I heated the stud near the block and sprayed penetrant and allowed it to cool.

I started with a wedge style of stud remover tool, which allows you to grab the stud down at the block surface. One down side is this type of tool will leave marks on the shank of the stud if you plan to reuse them. The wedge style tool is also not convenient to work the stud back and forth. Also, I broke the side out of that tool on the 7th stud which led me to the collet style tool.

Good luck with your project.

 

[JSeery]

I prefer to use new studs, but at the least I would be concerned about reusing studs that were this hard to remove.

 

[tubman]

I just got back from my shop and just saw this. I want to publicly announce that I am officially OFF the citric acid bandwagon. I did a bunch of experimenting with it last year and communicated with quite a few people using it. That's where the the "1 lb per 5 gallons" cane from. I was very interested in citric acid at one time because a few people had said it was the basis for Evaporust (which I believe to be the premium de-rusting product out there). I have discovered that this IS NOT true and citric acid is just another acid, albeit a little less aggressive than other acids. I have found that while Evaporust, Rust-911, and Metal Restore (from Home Depot) have a pH of 7 (neutral), citric acid comes in with a pH of about 2 which is quite acidic. That means that given the opportunity and time, it will destroy the object being de-rusted.

Given this, I would not use citric acid in a case like this. I believe that the most cost-effective solution would probably be Rust-911 concentrate. Two gallons of the concentrate would make 32 gallons of solution which may be enough. You can use the citric acid if you want, but if you do check it often and carefully, as it can eat away the iron itself. People have used several types of acid effectively, but you have to be careful.

I got into researching citric acid because I was lead to believe it was the basis for Evaporust and when I discovered it was just another acid, I lost interest. I guess I didn't communicate that well enough; sorry. My quest for a cheaper generic Evaporust continues, but either the "secret ingredient" that makes it work really is that expensive or they are the best "secret-keepers" I have run across in a long time.